fitted with a sheet rope tied to its eye¬ 
let on its free corner long enough to 
reach its cleet aft of the mast with 
about a yard to spare after it is tied 
up. Tighten the sheet rope and fold 
the jib down flat while slacking on 
the halliard and tie it up with reef 
points made from rope cut in one-foot 
lengths. Ordinary clothes line or 
quarter-inch sash cord will do for fas¬ 
tening sails, reef points and sail edg¬ 
ing, but three-eights-inch or more 
must be used for halliards and sheet 
ropes. 
J^OPE of both sizes in different 
lengths should be carried, as it 
will be handy should a rope break. 
Knots should be studied and as many 
as possible learned. If you intend to 
sail in rough weather a second row of 
eyelets will have to be made about 
three feet above the lower ones in the 
mainsail. These are tied down to the 
boom with reef points when the wind 
gets too strong to carry the whole 
spread of sail. The booms with the 
sail are then placed with the prongs 
against the mast and the astern ends 
of the ropes rove through the double 
pulley are tied to either end of the 
lower boom. The ends of the upper 
boom are tied where they will be 
when the sail is hoisted. Rings large 
enough to slide easily on the mast are 
made from wood or strong wire. Each 
eyelet is fastened to a ring which holds 
it to the mast. The rings slide up and 
down the mast and prevent bagging of 
the sail. The sail is now folded be¬ 
tween the booms, which are tied to¬ 
gether with reef points. The boom is 
fitted with a strong sheet rope and 
cleet astern. A coat or two of paint 
on the boat and varnish or paint on 
the jibboom, mast and booms, with 
suitable seats well painted, a strong 
cleat fore and aft for tying up fenders 
on the sides with oarlocks and a pair 
of oars will complete the outfit. 
Now launch the boat and leave her 
there until morning. Next morning 
haul her out and if she doesn’t leak 
too much and the weather is fair she 
is ready for a tryout. Don’t try to 
sail her alone, but rather take some¬ 
one with you. If you can’t swim be 
sure to put on a life preserver before 
Page 377 
you leave the dock. Kegs filled with 
water will do very well for ballast and 
should the boat fill with water she 
will not sink. Better take on a third 
partner to act as ballast. He will also 
be of service in rowing if necessary 
and bailing water. More than three, 
Method of installing a.nd 
bracing the, jibboom. 
however, will not do any good. Every 
boat should have a captain. This will 
save confusion. The captain steers the 
boat and the others man the sails. 
This enables everything to be done 
both quickly and well. 
r |''HE boat should be docked with the 
stern to windward so that she will 
start out with the wind. Wait until 
you can sail her before going on a trip 
with her. There is more to it than 
usually supposed. Two lads went 
nearly three miles further than ex¬ 
pected by going too far from the dock 
instead of rowing back. They broke 
the rudder, rudder braces, jibboom and 
braces in trying to land in an unfamil¬ 
iar place, while a few strokes of the 
oars would have brought them back 
to their dock. Tacking should be the 
first thing learned, for if you can beat 
into the wind it will be easy to get 
anywhere. 
When ready to start haul up the 
sails but let them rustle by slacking 
the sheet ropes. The jib’s sheet rope 
is tightened a little as the boat is 
shoved off. Hang on to the end of 
the mainsail’s sheet rope as she leaves 
the dock slowly. As soon as she has 
steerage way turn her suddenly at 
right angles to the wind and haul in 
the mainsail until it fills. Keep the 
helm steady until she gathers consid¬ 
erable speed. She may then be hauled 
a little into the wind and the mainsail 
hauled closer to the boat. Ease her 
off a little if she slows up. Even if 
you must keep her abeam in order to 
have steerage way, do so and turn her 
suddenly into the wind when she 
gathers enough speed, easing her again 
before she loses way. Never hold the 
boom close to the boat as this will 
cause careening and prevent headway. 
If she careens with the sail a little 
away turn her suddenly into the wind 
and then ease her again as she 
straightens up. Never keep the rudder 
at an angle with the keel, as it will 
cause leeway. Turn it only when 
there is good steerage way and 
sti aighten it as soon as the desired 
position is obtained. The helm should 
never be put all the way down as it 
will act as a drag and will not turn 
the boat. Go as far as you like and 
then ease her to gather a little speed, 
then turn her suddenly into the wind. 
After you have become expert the boat 
will turn around and as the booms 
swing over, the sails will fill and she 
will fall off on the other tack without 
losing headway. She should be eased 
off until she gathers speed and the 
process of beating into the wind may 
continue. The novice, however, can¬ 
not always expect this result. She 
may require a stroke or two of an oar 
to make her fall off. 
Some do a good job of tacking with 
a little practice and a poor boat, while 
others, even with a good boat, it takes 
years. The class you will be in is up 
to you. Even if you can only keep 
her from losing way on one tack, 
don’t give up, you may do better on 
the next. Take advantage of every 
puff and every inch gained. Keep her 
going fast enough to give steerage 
way. The novice should try to perfect 
his tacking for then he will have in¬ 
deed mastered an art. Sailing before 
the wind is very easy, as one has only 
to keep the sails at right angles to 
the wind and steer the course. The 
rule of keeping the helm steady and 
the sails full as much as possible while 
under way holds good in every case. 
Elmer Piquette. 
