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A Combination Sleeping Bag and Pack 
By HARRY IRWIN 
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T HAT can be built to any of its 
various stages, but which—in 
its entirety—I have adopted as 
interchangeable with several of my 
tents, is easily constructed. 
As a Stretcher-Bed: 
Take a simple strip of 
light - weight “khaki” can¬ 
vas, 6 ft. 8 in. long, make a 
1-in. hem at each end, add 
a 6-in. pocket down each 
side, and the bed is com¬ 
pleted. “A” of Fig. 1. The 
pockets are for the “bed- 
poles,” either to extend 
through the walls of the 
tent, at one end, by means 
of “sleeves,” having a draw¬ 
string at their outer end, 
while the other end of the 
poles rest on the tent floor, 
or to be used as an ordinary 
“stretcher - bed.” For ma¬ 
terial I prefer No. 1 brown 
denium. 
As a Stretcher-Bed Mat¬ 
tress : 
Add another strip of your 
material the length of your 
bed, and sew it to under 
side, at one end (foot) and 
both sides of the bed. “A,” 
Fig. 1. Attach “tie-tapes” 
6 in. apart and a like dis¬ 
tance down from the open 
end, with a flap (g-u-i-j, 
B., Fig. 1), 2 ft. 6 in. by 6 
in., to match and close when 
mattress is filled. 
As Stretcher-Bed, Mattress, Pillow: 
Add to the above a strip 1 ft. wide 
and 2 ft. 6 in. long, having one end 
open, at the head of the bed, “p-c-b-q,” 
“A,” Fig. 1., which snaps or ties shut. 
As Stretcher-Bed, Mattress, Pillow, 
Sleeping-Bag: 
Add to the above two “flaps,” “1-u-k,” 
and 
“m-o-n,” 
of “A” Fig. 1, which 
snaps “y” across the body. This is 
sewn at the foot and up both sides for 
a distance of 3 ft. The opening of 
the “bag,” “o”, starts 1 ft. 6 in. from 
the center of the foot of the bed. Put 
stiffening pieces of cloth on the under 
side at all points of strain. 
Add No. “O” gromets (or dee rings) 
down each side of the bed, spaced 6 in. 
apart. “A” of Fig. 1. These “ham¬ 
mock-tie” to corresponding gromets, at¬ 
tached to a strip of web-tape, which in 
turn is sewn to the wall of the tent. 
Stretching all taunt. 
As a Stretcher-Tent-Bed, Mattress, 
Pillow, Sleeping-Bag and Pack: 
To the above add, at the time that 
the pole sleeves are sewn in for the 
stretcher-bed, “flaps” (as indicated by 
“o-n-m-l-k-j-i-t-h,” of “B,” Fig. 1., in 
which “o-t” is 3 ft., “o-n” 6 in., “n-1” 3 
in., “n-m” and “j-i” are 6 
in.), with eyelets set as 
shown along line “m-j” and 
corresponding line on oppo¬ 
site side, fold at center and 
make a “French sea m.” 
(Ask your wife what that 
is.) This will make one 
row of eyelets. 
Before Attaching Mattress 
Attach Your Pack Straps: 
For the straps take two 
strips of leather 2 in. wide 
and 2 ft. 3 in. long. Trim 
down one end for 5 in. from 
the end of the leather to a 
taper of 1 and 1 Vz in. at 
its end. Work down the 
opposite end of the strap 
to a width of 1 in. at its 
end, as indicated by “a-a,” 
“C,” Fig. 1; or, a better 
way, and one that I prefer, 
is to take a strip of leather, 
4 in. wide and 2 ft. 3 in. 
long. This I split from one 
end through the center, to 
within 8 in. of the opposite 
end of the strap. Each of 
these two long split pieces 
I taper to 1 in. at their end. 
the opposite (or unsplit 
end) I split back for 4 in., and each of 
these two short split pieces I taper to fit 
the 1 and IV 2 in. buckle, leaving a solid 
piece of 4 in. sq. in the strap. To this 
square I attach, on the top side, two 
1 in. straps, 2 ft. 9 in. long. This keeps 
the “pack straps” all in one “chunk,” 
and saves mislaying them when de¬ 
tached from the bed-pack. It is all a 
matter of preference and each long 
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