SAFETY RAZOR BLADE 
HOLDER 
By Harry Irwin 
S OME months ago I offered a 
Safety Razor Blade Holder in 
NESSMUK’S CORNER; the fol¬ 
lowing are variations of this idea. 
Fig. 1 can be used with the ordinary 
“wafer-blade,” but is better 
adapted to the long, thin blade, 
with the slot cut out in the 
center, such as is used in the 
safety’s patterned after the 
good, old, straight-edged razors. 
“A” is the blade, having- a slot 
x.” “B” is a piece of cigar 
boxwood, with a cut-out, so that 
the blade “A” sets into the piece 
“B,” leaving a rim 3/16" at 
each end and top, but with 
the lower cutting-edge of the 
blade extending y 8 " below 
the lower edge of “B.” 
In making the cut-out re¬ 
tain that portion of “B” that 
fits into the slot “x” of “A.” 
C ’ is a second piece of cigar 
boxwood, cut to match and 
fit into the “cut-out” of “B.” 
These are shown in 
cross - section “D,” 
in which “b” corre¬ 
sponds with “B” and 
“c” with “C.” “a-a” 
are 14 " narrow 
strips of wood, glued and 
tacked to the outer top 
edge of “B” and “C” to 
form a grip or handle; 
“d” is the projecting part 
of “B” to fit slot “x” of 
“A,” and “e” is the hole 
bored to fit the setscrew 
“G,” which is the post 
from an old dry-cell bat¬ 
tery as shown by “E.” 
Break out or cut off the binding post 
to the desired length, force the butt 
of the post into a copper washer, 
stand on end and batter LIGHTLY, so 
as not to spoil the thread, and clinch 
to form a head, preventing the post 
from being pulled through the screw- 
hole, on tightening the nut, which I cut 
in half, using only the top portion. 
Fig. 2 is possibly the simplest form 
of nolder than can be made and gives 
good service. “A” is a safety blade. 
“B” is a piece of heavy tin 214" x 114", 
folded as indicated by dotted line and 
having holes punched for setscrew, 
which is shown as in “C.” If you do 
not care to bother with obtaining or 
making a setscrew, rivet with a washer 
or punch holes to correspond with all 
SAFETY RAZOR BLADE HOLDER 
Grip 
Battery 
Post 
to 
rivoted 
other 
aide 
Sides 
BreaX out and 
out off hera and have 
\ 
Blade 
Added piecee for 
Grip. 
SAFETY RAZOR BLADE HOLDER. 
l&l/i 
punch Hole 
three in the blade and fasten with split 
paper fasteners, tapping them down 
tight and flat on the fold over. 
on top of a stout haft that continued 
down well into the blade with a sharp 
beavez- tail” on one side and a rounded 
subtraction of this construction on the 
opposite side. The lower grip and the 
beginning of the blade would be ap¬ 
proximately the center of the total 
length. The sides or cuter edges of 
the blade would be as straight as gen¬ 
eral lines would permit and the aver¬ 
age width of the blade would be six 
inches. The shape of the bottom would 
be semi-circular on a wide arc. The 
thickness of the blade would taper to 
a nicely sharpened 
edge on the bottom 
and on the sides. A 
copper tip can be 
well worked on to 
the bottom edge that 
greatly protects the 
blade against split¬ 
ting and puckering 
when used on shores 
and in rapids. The 
blades used for hunt¬ 
ing, fishing, racing 
and sailing had bet¬ 
ter be without tips. 
If the blade is to be 
decorated, it should 
be done before any 
varnish is put on 
the wood, as in this 
way the colors will 
be better preserved 
and remain richer. 
Only o u t sid e spar 
varnish should be 
used as a coating. 
Hei-e are a few 
paddle hints, and it 
is hoped that the 
reader will find at 
least one new one 
among them. A 
Stand on 
6- end . 
and 
batter 
lightly. 
"0 
Tin. 
?— 
- • \ 
© 
k\ 
_ jy 
3=Z 
J 
Dee Battery Post 
from old Dry Cell. 
PADDLES 
ideal modern single blade would 
be made of carefully selected 
spruce with an over-all length of five 
feet six inches. A comfortable grip 
Page G31 
black o-r da-rk-green blade is best for 
trolling. It does not glisten in the sun¬ 
light nor frighten the fish, as the plain 
varnished wood blade does. Keep the 
entering edge sharpened finely with 
your knife. This will help you to enter 
the blade in the water more cleanly and 
effect better paddling. Be sure that 
the paddle dip is kept well varnished, 
(Continued on page 672) 
