RERAMIC STUDIO 
A COILED BASKET— LAZY SQUAWS STITCH 
Mrs. Hugo Froehlich 
PLAN a small simple shape for the first coiled basket. 
Soak a No. 4 rattan reed a b, Fig. I, so that one end maj^ 
be coiled very tightly. Wrap this end with one strand of 
raffia about three fourths of an inch. The other end of raffia 
is to be threaded in a No. 19 tapestry needle. 
e 
Coil end h, Fig. i, back to meet a g' at about c and fasten 
end firmlj^ with a few stitches of the raffia. 
After a few trials this can be done easily and well. 
When firm wrap raffia once around rattan. Fig. 2, at e, 
take one stitch through both coils at /. Wrap around coil at g 
and with binding stitch around both coils at h. This last 
stitch is the means of binding both coils firmly. Continue with 
one wrap or short stitch, and one binding or long stitch, alwaj^s 
allowing the long stitch to be taken over the short stitch of 
previous coil as in Fig. 3. Take the stitches toward you as 
shown in Fig. 3. 
^ 
JZL 
It will be a matter of choice as to the direction of working. 
Some will work better from left to right because the rattan is 
more easily managed in that way. 
As the circle increases it will be necessary to add more 
stitches, but this will make no difference in the regularity of 
stitches, if a long and short stitch are added together. 
If color be introduced be sure to have a simple design, 
such as one or two bands of only one color. A Maltese cross 
at regular intervals or a small triangle connected bj^ bands 
makes an effective border. 
Insert the colored strand by lajang it along rattan about 
one inch before it is to appear in the pattern. By working the 
other natural raffia over it the colored strand becomes firm and 
can in turn bind the natural raffia. If color is to be a solid 
band, cut natural raffia after it is firmly fastened and introduce, 
when needed, following the process just as described. 
The shaping of these baskets is not difficult. To form the 
flare, bind each subsequent layer to previotis one just a little 
to the outside and top of it. When another rattan reed is 
needed add it by splicing them. Cut enough from the end of 
each reed, about three fourths of an inch and make them fit as 
one reed when laid together. Notch them once or twice and 
bind firmly with a fine strip of raffia. There is no need of 
planning a special finishing of the top as the Lazy Squaw 
stitch is in itself a finish. 
ANSWERS TO INQUIRIES 
Mrs. J. A. R. — The tools for wrought leather can be purchased through 
the Guild of Arts and Crafts, 109 E. 23d street, N. Y. They range in price 
from 40 to 50 cents. 
F. W. L. — Can I buy brass lamp shades readjr to decorate? Lamp 
shades of brass or copper can be bought from a metal spinner, give him the re- 
quired dimensions, and the gauge of metal you want. You could also cut the 
shade out yourself, and take it to a tinsmith, he would make the seam, and 
finish the top and bottom. 
T. M. — Background tools for wrought leather worji are made of steel- 
These can be made by a die-cutter from designs of your own. 
M. W. — How can I unsolder a piece of work? Paint those joints that are 
not to be unsoldered with a mixture of red clay and water. This will protect 
them. When thoroughly dry, scrape the portions next to the part to be un- 
soldered, and paint with borax. Then give just enough heat to melt the 
solder and remove the part with pincers. 
PYROGRAPHY 
TREATMENT OF GLOVE BOX-(Page 190) 
Katherin Livermore 
BURN outlines; make a decided contrast between the 
inner and outer backgrounds; keeping the inner one 
ver3^ delicate rather than using the heavy lines indicated — 
a point stippling would be preferable. The outer one may be 
burned as heavy as indicated. 
Use gamboge to color the flowers and Sap Green for the 
leaves — put a flat wash on and when perfectly drj^, shade the 
flowers and leaves very delicately with the hot point, using 
line shading; the effect of the burning over the color is very 
harmonious, but can only be done when water color is used. 
