THE CRAFTS 
WOOD CARVING AND PYROGRAPHY. LEATHER AND METAL. BASKETRY, ETC. 
Under the management of Miss Emily Peacock, 6 Brevoort Place, Brooklyn, N. V. All inquiries in regard to the various 
Crafts are to be sent to the above address, but ivill be answered i?i the magazine under this head. 
SIMPLE FURNITURE 
V— SIMPLE METAL FITTINGS 
Elizahcih Saiujsiad 
BRASS, copper, bronze and iron are the only metals we 
need consider particularly, as a wide range of colors and 
effects can be gotten with these by different treatments. 
Polished brass is the best combination with mahoganj^ 
It goes well, also, with cedar and ebon3^ and on green stained 
and light woods. With a green finish it looks well on all 
shades of brown from ivorj^ to chestnut. Dull reddish copper 
is fine on black oak, walnut and deep green stains. Bronze 
from copperj' to deep brown tones, is fine on walnut and green 
stains, and green bronze on fumed oak. Iron goes well with 
fumed oak of all shades, on green stains and red cedar. 
Beautiful effects can be gotten by piercing the metal in 
simple designs and putting bits of colored leather under the 
openings. A good scarlet or emerald green in small quantities 
under bright brass on ebony or black oak, or leaf green under 
dull brass on brown woods; olive and dull greens under brown 
bronze on walnut or oak; Indian red under iron on black oak or 
dull green stains, are all good combinations. If fine colored 
leathers are not available, thin suede sheepskin in the natural 
color, or fine chamois, maj^ be stained with artists' tube colors 
diluted in benzine, l^rushing them on with a fine, rather stiff 
bristle brush. 
numbered, the higher the number the thinner the metal. 
Anything thicker than 12 gauge would probably l^e more than 
the beginner could manage successfulh', and anything thinner 
than l(S too light even for small bo.xes. It is better to err on 
the side of weight, as the sentiment of metal is strength and 
iirotection. 
IV. — Some key plates and fastenings. 
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I. — Vise, shearb. 
The metals mentioned come in rods and bars of dift'erent 
sizes and sheets of different thicknesses, or gauges, which are 
V. — Suggestions for pierced bands. 
The following tools will be needed whatever the process of 
working the metals: A pair of shears for metal, at least 12 
inches long, costing about 60 cents; a 6 or 7 oz. ball pene 
hammer, about 50 cents; 2 half inch cold chisels, one straight 
and one curved, about 15 or 20 cents; several files, I coarse and 
I smooth, 10 inches, I rat tail, I square and I knife edge, from 
6 to 8 inches, costing from 10 to 25 cents; emery paper, F; 
countersink for screws; drill brace and I doz. medium assorted 
drills, from ^\ to t¥ of an inch, costing from $1.50 up; a small 
l^ench vise with anvil attachment like the one in illustration I, 
costs from $3.00 to $4.00. A small, square, flat anvil can be 
bought separately, or the bottom of a flat iron maj^ be used in 
an emergency. 
A metal saw is not necessary for all work, but is prolaal^ly 
the best way for cutting out metal over 16 gauge. It will cost 
with a dozen medium blades, about 75 cents. 
In beaten metal work, iron and steel, if in rods or bars, are 
forged hot, and brass, bronze and copper, cold. The last 
three must be annealed before beating, which means heating 
them until they are red and then cooling, the process to be 
repeated as often as the metal becomes hardened under the 
