KERAMIC STUDIO 
23s 
over a rod of the desired size, the ends of which arc afterwards 
shghtly flattened so that it will not slip through. 
Handles on chests and drawers should have their fasten- 
ings go through the wood and a metal plate sunk flush on the 
inside. If screws are used they are secured by a nut, and nails 
are cut nearly to the surface and spread by beating. 
There is a prett\^ good selection of ornamental nails on the 
market, including some very nice ones of wroiight iron, but 
the craftsman can make his own by cutting out discs of metal 
VII. — Wall cabinet of dull gr 
ith copper trimmings. 
the desired size and beating them into shape in a hollow in a 
hard wood block and then soldering steel nails on to them. 
Make the surfaces to adjoin perfectly clean, place the head up- 
side down on a hot stove, dip the end of a piece of wire solder 
in a flux of alcohol saturated with chloride of zinc, then hold 
the moistened end in the metal cup till a drop melts off, dip 
the head of the steel nail in the flux, heat it, then place in posi- 
tion in the drop of solder and cool. 
When everj^thing is in readiness for the final fastening the 
metal must be cleaned and finished. Iron work should be 
warmed and sm^eared with beeswax and held over a smoky 
fire, turning every part to the heat. Then cleanse with benzine 
and rub with emery cloth and put on a final finish of beeswax 
Vni. — Chest of red cedar, wax finished, with inch wide band.s of iron and 
flat headed, wrought iron nails. 
and turpentine such as I gave directions for in the chapter on 
Finishing. It should be put on thinly and well rtil^bed in with 
an old tooth brush, for instance. 
Copper, brass and bronze are cleaned by heating and then 
putting them in the acid bath a few minutes, or until they look 
bright. If it is desired to have them remain so, they must be 
lacquered. Buy a good metal lacquer and follow the directions 
for applying. Or they may be slightly rubbed with linseed 
oil and left to oxidize natui'ally and gradually acquire the 
patina of age. Bronze and copper turn brown and brass a 
dull greenish color. The process may be hastened by heating 
the pieces on the stove. Copper assumes beautiful irridescent 
colors by heat, but these graduallj^ darken. There are numer- 
ous ways of greening brass, copper and bronze but I would 
advise the amateur craftsman to buy some of the ready mixed 
preparations that come for this purpose, as less troublesome 
and, probably, more satisfactory in the end. 
WAYS OF USING TWO WEAVES 
Mrs. Hugo Froehlich 
THIS construction ma3^ be employed in using heavj' as 
well as light material: Spokes of No. 5 rattan and 
weavers of No. 3 make a strong heavy scrap basket, but for a 
lighter work basket, 16 spokes, 27 inches long of No. 3 rattan 
and two weavers of No. 2 rattan, will be best. Lay the spokes, 
at middle, in groups of four at right angles and weave the groups 
as in Fig. I. With a pliable No. 2 weaver bind the group at 
I Fig. II, leaving the end underneath as in construction of 
mat in November number of the Keramic Studio. 
Place the weaver under the next group 2, over 3 Fig. iii, 
continuing under and over each group twice around so as to 
hold the centre firmlj^. 
On the third round separate and weave under and over 
groups of two. Continue in this way once around, then pass 
nc.Yi 
the weaver tinder two groups, as in Fig. iii, so as to make the 
weaver come right in relation to the previous row. Finalty 
separate into single spokes. 
Before going farther insert another weaver along the spoke. 
