RERAMIC STUDIO 
Illustration No. 7 
locks it in place. These stub ends, which may be too thiclc for 
twisting for as much as 6 or 8 inches, are trimmed afterwards. 
When only one leaf is used it is made continuous b^^ tying a 
sciuare knot in the corners. The points of particular impor- 
tance are that the rush be the right degree of dampness, that 
the strand be kept even and firmly twisted and tightly drawn, 
and the corners true and neat. 
When the seat is about a third filled, Ijits of rush must be 
stuffed in under the middle laj-er and this must be done from 
time to time as the work progresses, for it makes the seat much 
firmer and better looking. 
When the seat is wider than deep, the space in the middle 
is filled by weaving forward and back, over and under. When 
it is wider in the front than the back the front corners can be 
filled separatel3^ until even with the back. 
The chances are that the first seat will not present a ver3- 
encouraging appearance, a general tendency to "humpiness" 
filling the beginner with despair. Much, however, can be done 
to remedy this by thorovighly dampening the seat, top and 
l:)ottom, 1d\' wrapping it in wet cloths, and when it is plial^le, 
unruly strands may be caught into place. By sewing diagon- 
ally across the strand in the direction of the twist it will not be 
noticeable. 
An old chair from which the rush may be untwisted and 
manner of weaving actually seen, is a great help, as well as the 
careful examination of any well rushed chair. 
Certain styles of chairs seem almost to demand the use of 
leather, as the one in illus. 7, for instance. It is rather expen- 
sive, but it is so fine and satisfactoiy, that it is not an ex- 
travagance in the end. 
Cowhide, calfskin and sheepskin are the kinds commonlj- 
used, and can be bought by the square foot or the whole skin. 
Though the latter way is cheaper there is a good deal of waste, 
but one can always find some use for the odds and ends. Prices 
vary greatly on all of these according to weight, finish, quality 
and whether colored or natural." The latter, if unpolished, 
can be stained with artist's tube colors, slightly thinned with 
turpentine and well rubbed in, or with colored inks. Both can 
be finished, after they are perfectly dry, with the wax and 
turpentine polish. 
DeejD, soft greens of all shades, dull reds, rich tans and 
browns and dull yellows are the most satisfactor^^ Of course 
the ornamental nails must be carefully chosen to go with the 
general decorative scheme, both in stjde and color. The bright 
brass nails of commerce can be toned down bj' rubbing off the 
lacquer with a bit of emer\^ cloth or very fine sand paper. 
Veiy heavy cowhide can be used without padding in such 
seats as those in illus. 8, but padding it is necessary with the 
thinner, softer leathers. Illus. 9 shows two methods. The first, 
-4 , is the simpler one, but makes a harder seat which does not 
retain its shape quite as well. Webbing bands are interlaced over 
the frame and drawn as tight as possible and over this burlap is 
fastened, both being tacked to the top of the frame. Over this 
is placed sufficient curled hair to make the desired thickness 
and it is covered with muslin or cotton flannel. It is now ready 
for the final cover which is stretched tightly over it and held in 
place by small, flat headed furniture tacks. These are covered 
by a strip of leather as wide as the ornamental nails, which 
finish it. In B, illus. 9, the webbing, burlap and hair are put 
on as in .4, then another piece of burlap, which is stitched 
through the edge making a ridge all around; and the centre is 
stitched through and through. The hollow thus formed is 
Illu.stration No. 8. 
stuffing it from below until it canncjt be stuft'ed any more; 
making it, of course, as ever, as even as possible. Then witli a 
long, strong darning needle and tan colored linen thread any 
Illustration No. 9. 
