KERAMC STUDIO 
TRAY— GRACE W. STEPHENS 
TREATMENT OF TRAY 
Grace II '. Stephens 
DRAW the design accurately with India ink. Tint the cen- 
ter with Brown No. 3. Make the red by mixing one 
part Capucine Red with two parts of Deep Red Brown, the 
green, one part Emerald Stone Green to two parts Dark 
Green No. 7, and lastly put on the Orange Lustre, great care 
being taken to bring it up close to the edges, laying it on as 
smoothly as possible. 
Use as large a square shader as can be conveniently han- 
dled. Put a thin wash of gold on the edge, and fire hard. 
For the second fire deepen all the colors, using a little 
Brown No. 4 with the first named brown, Deep Green No. 7 
over the green and Deep Red Brown on the red. Go over 
the lustre with another thin wash and outline the entire 
design with Outlining Black. Put another wash of gold on 
the edge and if the tray is again fired hard, it will come out 
with a uniform high glaze. 
Should this not be the case, strengthen all your colors 
with a thin wash of the last named tints mixing plenty of 
fat oil with your tinting oil which will help to give a glaze, 
and fire again. 
MOUNTAIN ASH DESIGN 
Maude Briggs Knowlton 
IN painting the berries of the mountain ash, use yellow red, 
blood red and ruby, with ruby and a touch of black in 
very darkest shadow parts of darkest cluster. The principal 
bunch of berries should be kept almost wholly in yellow red, 
used thin and thick, with blood red used on the shadow side very 
sparingly. The medium dark bunches of berries should be 
painted with yellow red used thicker, and shaded with blood 
red, while the darkest bunches should be done in ruby, and 
shadowy one in gold grey. Be careful in painting them the 
first time, not to model each individual berry too much, but 
more in masses. The leaves should be kept in cool greyish 
and bluish greens, except the spray most prominent, in which 
can be introduced the warmer shades of green, made with 
moss green and shaded with brown green. Shadow leaves 
should be kept a cool greyish color. 
The stems directly attached to the berries and supporting 
each cluster, are made with moss green shaded with brown 
green, while the main stems are made with Copenhagen blue 
used thin, and shaded with same and a touch of finishing 
brown. 
After firing, the berries should be modeled somewhat in 
same colors as used at first, and the leaves and stems strength- 
ened, and after firing a second time, if the clusters of berries 
look cut up, wash over the shadow side yellow red and blood 
red, while those that were painted with the ruby may have a 
wash of ruby, blood red and Copenhagen. 
Do not forget the small black dot on each little berry 
which is conspicuous, as this is characteristic of the fruit. 
The background, if the design is used on a vase, is very 
pleasing when made of Russian green at top and running 
down to a very dark color made of Copenhagen blue, and used 
quite thick at the lowest part, even adding a touch of a shading 
green at the verv base. 
