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THE MAKING OF A METAL LANTERN 
F. G. San ford 
The present Chapter deals with the construction of 
lanterns and involves some processes described in the two 
previous articles (The Making of a Metal Candlestick, 
April, 1906; The Making of a Metal Sconce, June, 1906), 
which will be referred to for details of rivetting, etc. 
These are lanterns for porch or hall decoration where 
not quantity but quality of light is wanted. We see 
many delightful forms on sale in our great stores, or find 
them in the shops of craftsmen friends. All sorts and 
conditions of lanterns, many of which one would like to 
own. But none have to me quite the charm of the old 
perforated brass or tin lantern of our forefathers. It is 
such a lantern, a little modified to fit our simple equipment 
and methods, that I would first consider. 
Two thicknesses or gages of metal are needed. For 
the perforated body and roof 28 or 30 soft sheet brass, 
for the bottom and other parts 20 or 21 is needed. 
Sheet brass may be had in rolls 12" wide. For either 
of the lanterns shown in Fig. 1 you will need a piece of 
thin metal 24" long, 12" wide. 
First square one end of this piece and then mark off 
a piece io"xi6" for the lantern body and cut this out 
square and true (Fig. 2.) Mark lines carefully as shown 
in Fig. 3, that is 1" top and bottom, \" sides and cut out 
the corners as shown Fig. 3. The design comes between 
these inner lines, the upper 1" margin forming and the 
lower forming the turned over borders and the end ones 
forming the joint. Divide the design space into sixths; 
it should measure just 15" and this makes an easy divi- 
sion into 2\" spaces. Three tabs or ears are left at thirds 
as dicated in Fig. 4, these measure \" in width and come 
in such a way that they will not interfere with the joint. 
The rest of the upper and the whole of the lower borders 
are bent over a bevelled edge rule and then beaten down 
flat. Now having strengthened the edges and allowed 
for attaching to the roof andljoining the sides the middle 
space is free for design. But it is seldom well to fill all 
of the space and in this case a 1" border top and bottom 
is advisable. 
The patterns shown in Fig. 1 are severe and purely 
line and dot patterns. They are however sufficient and 
effective. Perhaps the tree design shown in the photo 
may appeal to some. In general large blank spaces should 
be avoided for two reasons. They do not diffuse enough 
light and they make an uneven bulging of the design. 
The laying out of the geometric motives seems to need 
special description. It is simply a frame work of inter- 
secting straight lines or parallels, capable of infinite variety. 
The actual drawing may be done right on the metal upon 
that side which will finally be the inside i. e. where the 
borders are bent over. 
Punching is done upon a soft wood block with a \" 
or suitable width chisel and a sharpened 9d nail, the curves 
of course with a gouge. In perforating a mass of holes 
try and drive the nail or chisel through with one stroke 
to insure evenness of size. Also take care to distribute 
at even distances and not to run together. After this has 
been finished form the joint by bending one edge one way 
over the other opposite. See Fig. 5. The metal will have 
bulged with the stamping and it is necessary to beat some 
of this out gently with the mallet, beating in the direction 
of the length of the cylinder, and this will curl it up near- 
ly to shape. The rest of the curling may be done with 
the hands and the joint hooked together, and pressed down 
with the fingers. Finish this joining by stringing the 
cylinder over a rod or bar set in a vise or nail strongly in 
some good place. Fig. 6. Beat down closely and clinch 
into place by denting the joint at intervals with a nail 
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