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point. See Fig. 7. The cylinder or body then resembles that in the photo. 
Next describe a semi-circle with a six inch radius as in Fig. 8, and allow \" 
more metal on each straight edge for the joint. In order to facilitate bend- 
ing file out a hole at the centre. About \" from this punch a row of good 
sized holes quite close together for ventilation, else the heat from the candle 
or small lamp will be too great. 
A border along the circumference of say 1" is left, then the interval 
may be perforated with some motive appropriate to the lantern body- 
The joining of the edges is as described for the body. It will be a little more 
difficult but can be accomplished with a little assistance. 
The proper fastening of the lantern top upon the body is explained later. 
A simple form of lantern bottom is made as follows: Cut a circle of the 
heavier brass to fit inside the cylinder rather loosely. Beat in the centre to 
form a hollow drip pan, (either on a wood block or upon the pad) make and 
rivet to the centre a holder for the candle, (see photo). Cut equilaterial 
notches from the edges measuring about \" on a side and coming at thirds 
of the circumference. (Fig. 9.) Now cut from the thick metal three pieces like 
Fig. 10, one part square, the other cut a little smaller than the V shaped 
cuts in the bottom. These pieces are perforated on the square end and bent 
to a right angle and rivetted in the proper position directly on a line with 
the laps which come at the top. To adjust the bottom set it up though 
allowing the slits to pass these V shaped ears and turn so that it will be held 
upon them. It will be necessary to punch a row of holes near the edge of the 
bottom piece to allow a draft of air to pass up through the lantern. 
In the photograph a somewhat different, but clumsier method is used. 
The ears are of different shape and rivetted outside with the lantern bottom 
bent up to catch over the points. This photo is shown as an example of 
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