RERAMIC STUDIO 
an tern in Wrought Copper, designed 1 
Claude New 
Courtesy of International Studio 
Horn Lantern made by R. R. Jarvis 
the perforating and rivetting of the separate parts. The 
work is that of two Allendale Boys of the 7th grade. 
To prevent too much heat at the top make a small 
hood from a 3" circle of thin brass. This is marked with 
diameters and bent with the pliers to resemble the one 
on the lantern in the photo. It is perforated in the centre 
with a small hole. The handle consists of a loop of heav- 
ier metal formed by cutting a strip f" wide by 12" long. 
(Fig. 11.) Perforate at the ends and beat with the mallet 
so that it will curl up into an even circle. 
A piece of medium thick, soft brass wire about 4" 
long will be needed for a fastening. Or copper wire can 
be used if it is easier to obtain. Roll one end of this into 
a loop and thread it up through the roof, the hood and the 
two ends of the handle and twist down tightly. (See Fig. 12) 
The roof is placed upon the body and the position 
of the square ears carefuflly marked. Punch slits at 
these places and thread the ears up from underneath, 
rolling them down tightly with the pliers (See photo, also 
Fig. 13). The adjustment of the bottom then completes 
this form of lantern. After trial, if the candle within 
melts too rapidly enlarge the holes at the top and in the 
bottom for more ventilation. 
The other forms of lantern (Fig. 14) are made from 
gage 21 soft sheet copper, the design being cut out into 
open spaces with a chisel. For the sides of lantern 
cut four pieces measuring 6f"x7" marking each piece 
accurately like Fig. 15. The finished side will be 6"x6". 
This allows f" lap for rivetting to the next piece and one 
inch for the bottom. All four pieces should fit each other 
accurately. The severe, square design is then cut out 
upon a wood block. Would advise a little practice first 
on a scrap of metal. Now the J" edge is punched for 
Horn^Lanteniiinade by" t .R. R. Jarvis 
three copper rivets and bent inward to a right angle the 
bottom is also bent inward. 
Fig. 16 shows in diagram the rivetting of one side to 
the next. In each case the lap comes inside so that the 
outside presents a smooth surface and even corners except 
for the rivets. These corners may then be finished by 
rounding slightly with a file. It is now necessary to punch 
and rivet together the four corners of the inside flaps at 
the bottom. Wherever possible place the outside rivets 
from the inside, beating down upon them as this is the 
more ornamental way. 
Four pieces, each measuring fxij* are rivetted at the 
middle (inside) of each surface at the top edge, and punched 
with a single hole for wirng. (Fig. 17.) Or the end may be 
brought up through the top and rolled down as in the 
cylindrical lantern. 
The roof may be cut from one piece as in Fig. 18 or 
made as four equilateral 6h" triangles and rivetted as in 
the sides. To make the bottom cut a square of metal 
which will just fit into the square opening. Attach holder 
and drip pan as in Fig. 19, bending the corners slightly 
as shown. Bottom is then set in and turned corner wise 
thus resting by its corners against the bent over edges. 
Both the geometric lantern here shown may be con- 
structed in this way. Instead of a candle holder a small 
frame made to hold a lamp of given size may be rivetted 
in. 
The drawings show simple loop handles difficult to 
rivet but easily attached by copper wire. 
Instead of the open work patterns sheets of colored 
glass may be set behind and held in place by small but- 
tons of metal above and below. Get a glazier to cut 
them the size for you. The student who has followed 
thus far should be able to go on and create other and 
original forms. 
