24 
NATURALISTIC SECTION OF HXRAMIC STUDIO 
DOROTHY PERKINS ROSE (Supplement) 
M. G. Myers 
FIRST Fire — Use a thin wash of Yellow in light parts of 
roses and Carnation in warmer tones, or use some reliable 
Rose and Lemon Yellow for lighter and more Rose or a little 
Carnation in stronger tones. Violet and Yellow for cool shad- 
ows and add Violet to Carnation for warmer shadows. Paint 
the centers with Albert Yellow, Egg Yellow, Yellow Brown, 
with a touch of Yellow Green and Brown Green. For the 
very dark roses in shadow use Ruby with a little Black. 
Leaves, Albert Yellow, Apple Green, Yellow Green, Brown 
Green and Dark Green in the darkest values (in the first fire 
only). A touch of Brown or Carnation may be added to leaves 
and will give a warm tone. Use Violet and Albert Yellow and 
a touch of Brown Green for the trellis. The background may 
be left for second fire if so desired. Warm tones, Albert Yel- 
low, Yellow Brown and Yellow Green. Cool tones, Violet, 
Violet and Apple Green and a little Copenhagen Blue, if de- 
sired. 
Second Fire — Wash Rose over the lighter roses. Rose 
and Ruby over the dark ones. Touch up centers. Strengthen 
greens where necessaiy, also background. Add crisp little 
touches in both roses and leaves. 
Third Fire — Draw background and roses together in light 
side by thin wash of Pearl Grey and Violet, on warmer side 
Ruby, Green or warmer Yellow as needed. Give the roses 
in shadow a thin wash of Blue. 
WATER COLOR TREATMENT 
W T ash in light roses with Pink and Rose Madder, with 
a touch of Lemon Y'ellow, or Alizarin Crimson and a lit- 
tle Yellow and Vermillion. Use Violet and Yellow in shad- 
ows. Lemon Yellow and Indian Yellow with a touch of Green 
in centers. Stamens, Olive Green Lake, Hooker's Green 
and Burnt Sienna. Use the same colors for roses of darker 
value only more intense, with a touch of Cobalt Blue in the 
shadows and a little Green next to leaves, also some of the 
rose color in the leaves. Add more Cobalt in shadow roses, 
with touches of Purple Lake or Hooker's Green added to Aliz- 
arin Crimson or Carmine. Wash in light leaves with Lemon 
Yellow, Emerald Green or Hooker's No. 1. Use Hooker's 
No. 2 in darker values, warm with Burnt Sienna or suppress 
with Red used in roses or Violet as needed. Stems, Cobalt, 
Carmine and Olive Green Lake. Paint the trellis with a wash 
of violet made of Cobalt and Carmine and Olive Green Lake. 
W~arm background, Gamboge, Indian Yellow and wash of 
Carmine below shadow roses. Cool tones, Green and Cobalt 
and Carmine with a touch of Indigo if desired. 
JOSEPHINE YOUNG 
Exhibition of the Keramic Society of Oreater New York 
NEW ART BOOKS WORTH READING 
Anita Gray Chandler . 
"The Appeal of the Picture," by Frederick C. Tilney, 
Illustrated. Dutton and Company, publishers. $2.50. The 
author has given the fruits of his long experience in art teach- 
ing and criticism in this work which will enable one to really 
understand pictures, to get beyond the "I know what I like" 
stage. 
"The History of Sculpture," by Harold North Fowler, 
Ph.D. Macmillan Company, publishers. $2.00. Dr. Fowler 
has dealt in a most readable and instructive manner with the 
art of sculpture from its source in Egypt and Babylonia to 
its present state in Europe and America, even going so far as 
to give a list of the promising young sculptors of to-day who 
may be expected to be famous to-morrow. Both the ancient 
and modern methods of making statues has been described. 
The book is neither so deep as to confuse the casual reader, 
nor so shallow as to bore the scholarly. It is profusely illus- 
trated with photographs of famous sculptures from all over 
the world. 
"The Midsummer of Italian Art," by Frank Preston 
Stearns. Illustrated. Badger, publisher. $2.00. Four of 
the greatest painters of all times — Michael Angelo, Raphael, 
Leonardo Da Vinci, and Corregio — are comprehensively dis- 
cussed and compared. The art student will find this work 
most valuable. 
TILE, CUP AND SAUCER (Supplement) 
Wm. K. Titze 
TREATMENT No. 1— Oil and dust all dark bands (leaves) 
and dark space behind flower motive with 1 part Dark 
Blue for Dusting, 1-2 part Mode and 1 part Glaze for Blue. 
Light spaces, use Glaze for Blue. All outlines and small 
bands to be Roman Gold. Flowers and buds are left white 
or White Gold can be used. Centers of flowers, Goldenrod 
enamel (Cherry's). 
Treatment No. 2 — If a soft green ground is desired use 
2 parts Glaze for Green and 1 part Ivory Glaze. Second tone 
bands are Glaze for Green. Buds and flowers are White Gold 
Fire. 
Second working — Dark spots (leaves) and ground behind 
flower motive, oil and dust with 1 part Water Blue and 1 part 
Dark Blue for Dusting. All outlines are Roman Gold, use 
the unfluxed over painted surface. 
STUDIO NOTE 
Miss Peacock's Antique Shop is open at 104 South Street, 
Freehold, N. J. Miss Peacock has been collecting beautiful 
old things, both here and abroad, for a number of years, and 
to these she has added other things modern, but still beautiful. 
ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS 
E. R. E. .1 want to etch some china bid hare never done any oj the work. 
Please tell rne as much as passible about the process. 
.2. Also can you tell me any preparation I can get to touch up chipped 
places, the paint that chipped off is Black. If I could get some preparation to 
put on that would stand firing or better still stand washing and wear 1 would pre- 
fer that. 
1. You will find a full treatment for etching in the Answers to Corre- 
spondents column for June. 
2. There is no preparation to use. The only thing to do is to chip off 
all that you can and paint it again and fire, though there is danger of more 
chipping the next time. The color can be painted on and when thoroughly 
dry a coat of white shellac paint over it and this will wear if not wa.shed too 
often. 
