U. S. ROUTE 27. MT. AIRY, CINCINNATI. OHIO 19 
W ATER LILIES will bear many large flowers or a few smaller 
ones in direct proportion to the amount of sunlight, the amount 
of growing space, and the richness of their soil. Lilies grown 
in pots or small boxes will therefore be somewhat dwarfed. Water 
lilies are easier to grow than roses and many other garden plants. In 
the first place, after planting they need no further watering—and the 
elimination of that requirement will save much labor. 
. AQUATIC PLANTS are subject to few insect pests, but if aphis 
is noticed, a quick remedy is to wash them off the top of lily leaves 
and other plants with a hose and force down the overflow pipe to the 
sewer. A healthy condition in the pool is maintained by keeping the 
water clean and the level fairly constant. At times green scum may 
appear, and a good remedy is to let the pool overflow slowly for several 
hours through a coarse strainer or with strainer removed if only larger 
fish are present. If any caterpillars or leaf worms are noticed they 
should be picked off the plants. Do not drain the pool more than 
twice a year—Spring and Fall. 
HARDY WATER LILIES can be planted from the middle of 
March untfl September in our latitude, and even later in the South¬ 
ern States. . TROPICAL WATER LILIES in our latitude should not 
be planted in pools until end of May when the weather is settled and 
the water is about 70 degrees. If planted earlier and chilled they will 
be set back several weeks in their growth. Hence we do not ship 
Tropical Water Lilies to Northern States until the end of May. Orders 
to Southern States can be made a few weeks sooner. Other than this. 
TROPICAL WATER LILIES are planted like Hardy Lilies, but they 
are treated as annuals, to be replaced yearly, unless wintered in a 
conservatory. 
HOW TO PLANT WATER LILIES 
First remember—Never allow aquatic plants to become dry. When 
lilies are received they must be placed in water or covered with wet 
burlap. Try not to allow the leaves to wither. In planting, place the 
tubers with the growing crowns even with the surface, and cover over 
with soil. It is not necessary to drain the water from a pool to plant 
the lilies, as this is never done in commercial propagation, nor is it 
hard to insert the roots under water. 
Each box, or the part of pool filled with soil, should be covered 
with a layer of sand 1 inch thick so as to keep the water clean and 
prevent fish from disturbing the plants. Follow this practice in planting 
all sorts of aquatics which grow in soil. 
The most satisfactory method of planting in larger pools is to 
jnstall a box for each plant. These boxes should be from 18x18x9 
inches to 30x30x12 inches deep. If water is more than 30 inches deep, 
the boxes should have a tight bottom and be raised on stones so that 
the crowns of lilies are not more than 8 to 12 inches under water 
when pool is filled. (We list two sizes of Water Lily Boxes on Page 7. 
They are inexpensive and very serviceable.) About 6 to 8 square feet 
of water surface should be allowed each Hardy Water Lily and 8 to 
12 square feet for each Tropical Lily. 
In smaller pools a space, say, 4x5 feet, can be partitioned off with 
a board wedged tightly; or a brick wall one brick wide and four 
courses high can be laid. This pocket can then be filled with soil and 
will support four or five lilies nicely. The entire bottom of a small 
pool can be filled with 6 inches of soil, then tamped and covered with 
1 inch of sand, if it is desired to have a lot of plants. 
In natural ponds, simply press the roots into the soil and then 
cover lightly with small flat stones to anchor until the roots take hold. 
Allow six to eight feet diameter for each lily, and if you do not wish 
them to mingle too closely, give each species a considerable area 
to itself. 
SOIL TO USE 
au aquatic plants like a rich loamy soil with clay base. If this can 
be procured from a garden or meadow no fertilizer is needed. A good 
soil can be prepared by taking the top 4 inches of sod from a pasture 
breaking it up well and adding one quart Lakeview Water Lily Fer¬ 
tilizer to each bushel of soil. Soil in lily boxes should be changed 
^ e ry two years. One pound of Lakeview fertilizer can be added to 
each box every year to produce growth; however, you will have more 
and larger flowers by buying fresh young plants every few years. 
Water lilies described as “Prolific Growers” or “Vigorous Plants” 
2“ "S 2 % 4 cubic feet of good soil per plant. If you give 
them less they will bloom and leaf in a smaller way, but the small 
and medium types of lilies are best for smaller places. 
Most water lilies do best if started in shallow water (3 to 5 inches) 
until they begin to leaf nicely. Then raise the water level or lower the 
boxes so they have 8 to 12 inches in Summer. Any hardy lily or hardy 
aquatic will survive the Winter if ice and frost do not get at their 
roots. Hence for Winter lower lily boxes under ice level or protect 
pools with boards so that very little ice will form. 
WINTER CARE OF POOLS 
Most people now leave their Goldfish outdoors all winter. When 
pools are well built as described on page 18 there will be no danger of 
them craoking from freezing. However, it is a good idea to cover 
your pool with boards and leaves, to protect it from the very severe 
weather. When this is done, very little freezing takes place. 
Hardy water lilies and hardy pool plants should be moved to deep 
water for the winter and will come through safely if no ice reaches 
to the top of the boxes so that the crown of the plant is not frozen. 
Dead leaves, etc., should be removed from the lilies and kept out of 
the pool during the winter. Also inspect the water level when pool is 
covered for any length of time. If you decide to drain the pool for 
the winter the dram should be left open, the pool filled with leaves 
and covered with a few boards. 
WINTER CARE OF GOLDFISH 
When pools are drained for the Winter, the fish may be wintered 
in a large aquarium or in tubs covered with wire, and kept in the 
basement near a window. If tubs are used, a good idea is to have a 
hole in the side of tub about four inches from the top, to allow the 
water to overflow and to have a petcock to spray a small but con¬ 
tinuous jet of water into the tub. Never use a new galvanized tub as 
the poison given off by new galvanizing will kill the fish. A wootlen 
tub or used wash tub is satisfactory if thoroughly cleaned, and if 
there is no trace of soap, or other foreign matter. 
Goldfish will stand wintering in the larger types of pools or ponds 
if they do not freeze to a depth greater than ten or twelve inches and 
if there is at least twelve to eighteen inches of water beneath the ice. 
In our locality ice on pools varies from two to six inches, and seldom 
is any thicker. During long periods of solid ice it will be well to open 
a hole about two feet square to allow some aeration of the water. 
Inspect the pool from time to time to be sure it has plenty of water! 
Your customary Fall feeding can be given through the ice three times 
a month during Winter if a lot of fish are known to be in the pool. 
If only a few fish are in the pool and there are some plants, lilies, etc., 
only feed lightly about twice a month. This is a precaution, as it is 
better to have the fish slightly hungry than to foul the water. Fish are 
quite inactive when they “hibernate” in cold water and do not need 
much food. They become more active as the water warms, and when 
it gets to be about sixty degrees, along in April, they begin to think 
of spawning, and will want some Water Hyacinths. 
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This sectional drawing 
shows the construction 
of a well-made rein¬ 
forced concrete pool 
for lilies and Goldfish. 
The Ledge can be con¬ 
structed on one or 
more sides of the pool, 
depending on effect de¬ 
sired. It is built to ac¬ 
commodate the floating 
plants (Water Hya¬ 
cinths, etc.) and the 
shallow water plants 
(Cattail, Pickerel Rush, 
Water Canna, etc.) 
Where no ledge is pro¬ 
vided, soil boxes, buck¬ 
ets, etc., properly ar¬ 
ranged, will give a 
good effect. 
