WHEN AND HOW TO TAKE CUTTINGS 
Use only new wood of the current season’s growth, 
preferably old enough to snap when bent. Use tip 
(stem) cuttings two to six inches long, depending on 
the size of the plant. The larger cuttings grow better 
after transplanting or potting. Bury the lower half 
in the bed. 
The usual times for taking cuttings in the Northern 
U. S. are as follows: flowering perennials, August or 
September; greenhouse mums, February to April; car¬ 
nations, November to February; coniferous shrubs, fall 
or winter; deciduous shrubs, June to August; lilacs. 
May; azaleas and rhododendrons, June and July. 
In the South and on the Pacific Coast, because of the 
longer season of growth, cuttings can be taken at any 
time according to the condition of the plant. This also 
is true of house plants. 
Geraniums, cacti and succulents should be allowed to 
dry out or "wilt” for at least 12 hours before dipping 
in ROOTONE and setting in the cutting bed. 
For more exact directions on making cuttings we 
refer the professional grower to Laurie and Chadwick’s 
"The Modern Nursery,” published by the MacMillan 
Company of New York (price |5.00). 
For the gardener the book, "How to Grow Peren¬ 
nials,” by V. H. Ries, gives helpful suggestions on the 
propagation of cuttings. It costs $1.00, from Doubleday- 
Doran Company of New York. 
A little ROOTONE goes a long way. The quarter- 
ounce packet treats 450 average-sized cuttings; the jar, 
containing about two ounces, treats 3000 to 4000 cut¬ 
tings; the pound can treats 30,000 to 40,000 cuttings. 
