equivalent of one ounce to seven and a half gallons of 
water. Bulbs should be immerced in this for eight hours 
and then planted either wet or after they dry. This is a 
poison and should be used with discretion. When you 
wish to discard it, just pour it out on the ground where it 
will soak in quickly and all danger is past. 
For early flowers, plant your bulbs as soon as the soil 
conditions will permit. Plant in rows, clumps or in borders 
as suits your fancy or convenience, but do not plant too 
near perennials whose roots are established for they will 
rob your glads of plant food, nor near a building where 
the reflected sun rays will scorch the bloom. Six inches 
deep is about right for loose sandy soil, but a little too 
deep for heavier soils. Each bulb should have about one 
square foot of space for ordinary flowers, but should have 
more room if you expect real exhibition spikes. If you 
have had experience with fertilizers, then use it if need be 
to produce fine glads. Otherwise go carefully or get some 
good advice from someone who knows your soil conditions. 
Glads do best with plenty of water such as we had in this 
section last summer. If you are forced to use artificial 
watering, soak them well once a week. 
Glads are grown for cut flowers mostly as they are 
not well suited for landscape planting. When the weather 
is hot cut the sike just before the first floret opens and 
place them in water in the cellar until they open sufficient¬ 
ly for floral use. Cut the spike slanting-wise with a sharp 
knife, being careful to leave four or five leaves to help 
develop the bulb. 
Bulbs may be dug three or four weeks after the bloom 
is cut or when the leaves begin to yellow. Cut the tops 
off close to the bulb and place the bulbs in a cool dry 
place to cure. After they have cured several weeks, the 
roots and old bulb can be pulled of and the good bulbs 
stored in a cool, dry cellar where there is some air cir¬ 
culating. About 40 degrees Fahrenheit is about right 
through the winter. 
