suffer from being left in the cold wet ground over winter as they like warmth. 
Bulbs should not be chilled even in storage as it may ruin the flower bud, tho 
not the bulb. But some say they never dig and yet get flowers in profusion. 
Olivias must be grown in full shade. A slight sprinkling of moving sunny 
spots on the foliage may be beneficial. But continuous sun on a leaf for even 
an hour or two will likely burn it. We grow ours under large Avocado trees and 
in a lath house with the lath not over V 2 " apart. But they should receive light 
and be well ventilated. 
They will endure a temperature down to 28°, possibly less without injury. 
We saved our plants when temperatures w r ere at 20° at night several nights, 
water pipes bursted, ground frozen nearly two weeks, by covering plants. Much 
foliage was lost but this was restored in a few months. 
Clivias must have good drainage such as that produced by a slope or by 
under drainage. Be sure water does not stand on them in heavy soil on level 
ground. If like that, elevate the beds. 
They like clay soils but seem to do equally w r ell in sandy soils. Leaf mold 
or peat should be mixed in soil. Wonderful specimens may be grown under Live 
Oak trees. The soil would naturally be slightly acid. We find they will do quite 
well in a neutral soil but if there is any alkali, add peat to soil and small doses 
of Aluminum sulphate may be used. Or you can apply some Azalea or Begonia 
fertilizer. 
Clivias are largely grown in pots, even where they are hardy. They are 
ideal pot plants anywhere. The drainage must be perfect. Use leaf mold or peat 
in soil. Give a little liquid manure when blooming or growing vigorously. They 
like rich soil, are good feeders. In the house a cool room at 60° to 70° is best. 
Whether in pots or in the ground Clivias need frequent watering in the 
summer. But water should drain away. About October gradually lessen the 
amount of water. They need a period of rest and comparative dryness. But not 
too dry. Watch the leaves, do not let tips dry up and turn brown. Clivias in pots 
of constantly soggy soil in the late fall and winter may rot off near surface of 
soil. Any time a soft decay shows the cause has been too wet, not enough drain¬ 
age. Dry off that plant. 
Remembering the simple requirements, Clivias are among the easiest of 
plants to grow. They are certainly tough. In moving plants, we once discarded 
a large division that broke off too high and had no roots whatever. It laid on 
the surface among other plants for several months. Noting it still had some 
green leaves I planted it. It grew quickly into a good plant. 
The culture of Crinums is very simple. Like the Hippeastrum, Sprekelia, 
Chlidanthus, Cyrtanthus and most Amaryllids they like a deep, very rich soil. 
Much manure may be used, but carefully if nearly fresh. One might expect so 
large a bulb would require deep planting but they do better with very shallow 
planting. Thus the huge bulb of C. asiaticum should be set with the base of the 
bulb only about 3" below surface. Crinum bulbs thrown aside and not covered 
will take root and gradually straighten up, rather unique performance which 
suggest that possibly nature may sometimes distribute them in flood waters. 
Bulbs endure storage well. We have stored bulbs as long as 4 or 5 years and 
found some of them still alive. In fact a dry bulb even after a couple of years 
storage will often throw a flower stock immediately when planted. Some vari¬ 
eties, e.g. Cecil Houdyshel, will bloom several times in a season if allowed to 
go dry awhile as flowers fade then watered liberally. True also of Cooperia, 
Zephyranthes, etc. 
Hippeastrums, commonly known as Amaryllis, tho easy of culture are often 
mistreated. This is because after the gorgeous flowers are gone they are sys¬ 
tematically neglected. The successful grower must give heed to the natural 
seasonal cycle of a plant. This plant after growth starts develops a flower stem 
and leaves at about the same time usually. After flowering comes a period of 
vigorous growth often lasting 8 or 9 months. At that time the bulb is growing 
larger and better. Perhaps making offset bulbs. It is storing up food for rapid 
growth and profusion of flowers for the next season. 
At this time an Amaryllis needs abundance of water and rich food. In pots 
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