Summer Care of Your Rose Bed 
The instructions as given for summer care are very simple 
and do not entail a great deal of labor, but they do mean so 
much to the success of your Hoses that they should not be 
neglected. 
Spraying 
Roses are subject to three general types of pests and diseases. 
First the fungous diseases; second, the sucking insects; and third, 
the leaf eating insects. 
The most serious and most important are the fungous diseases, 
Black Spot and Mildew. In Black Spot, the leaf first shows a 
small black spot surrounded by a yellow circle. The leaf then 
turns yellow and drops off. This spreads very rapidly and, if 
left unchecked, will soon defoliate the entire bush and bed. 
Black Spot is hard to cure but, if caught in time, may be controlled 
by the regular application of Clotracide. 
Mildew, as the name implies, is caused by cold nights and 
occasionally affects Hybrid Tea Roses. The consistent use of 
Clotracide will help to prevent it. 
Clotracide is a combination spray and is a preparation of copper 
and zinc,—which helps to control Black Spot and Mildew,—and 
other poisons which control both the aphids or lice, which appear 
in the early Spring and late Fall, and the leaf eating insects. 
This preparation is mixed with four level tablespoons to one 
gallon of water and sprayed on the plant at least once each 
week, care being taken that the underside of the leaves are 
covered. NOTE: In cases of very bad infestation the dosage 
may be increased to 6 or 8 tablespoons without injury. 
Clotracide is used in our garden here at Cloverset and we 
have found it to be as effective in the control of rose pests as 
any preparation we have ever used. Clotracide can be purchased 
from us at our Nursery. 
Watering, Cultivating and Feeding Roses 
Roses are living, breathing, drinking, eating things and to 
insure great quantities of blooms and to withstand the attacks 
of the insects and diseases mentioned, they should be kept well 
fed, and watered. Watering is the most important of all and 
the most neglected. 
Roses as well as other “ground” plants require oxygen at the 
roots as well as at the tops. An ideal condition of the soil would 
be one dry enough so the roots could get plenty of air and wet 
enough so that the roots could get plenty of water for best 
development. Soil always too wet is just as fatal to good, vigorous 
growth as soil too dry. Therefore, proper watering is a very 
One Corner in Upper Garden at Cloverset 
Another Beautiful Setting in Our Garden. Ladies' Rest Room in Background 
difficult condition to control and is the main reason for many 
failures in growing Roses and other plants. 
To water properly, run a stream of water about the size of 
a lead pencil into the bed all day or all night from a hose without 
a nozzle. The slow flow of water will be thoroughly absorbed 
and the roots well soaked. For large beds move the hose from 
place to place until all plants have been thoroughly watered. 
Do this once or twice a week during the growing and blooming 
season. The time to water must be left entirely to the judgment 
of the gardener. Since the plants cannot stand soil that is always 
soggy and cannot do well in soil that is too dry, digging in the 
bed to find out the real condition as to moisture seems to be the 
only way to determine when to water. During the excessive rains 
of last spring our Roses were too wet and were a great disap¬ 
pointment to us, although there was nothing we could do about 
it. When the rains ceased and sunshine again appeared they 
recovered and the finest Roses we ever grew were those of last 
June. Never water the leaves of your Roses, as wet leaves are 
sure to bring disease to them. 
As soon after watering as the soil becomes dry enough to 
cultivate, a thorough cultivation should be given to provide a 
dust mulch and prevent too rapid drying out. Never cultivate 
over one inch deep as the feeder roots are near the top of the 
soil, and deep cultivation will surely destroy them and greatly 
injure the plant. Or a mulch may be provided in which cultivation 
will not be necessary. Peat Moss or Cow Manure make good 
mulches. We prefer Cow Manure which, in addition to being a 
good mulch, also carries great fertilizer values. 
Once each month your Roses should be fed 2% pounds of 
Cloverset Rose Grower Fertilizer or our Cloverset Blood and 
Bone for each dozen plants, scattering it on the ground under 
the plants and cultivating it into the soil, or it may be dissolved ir 
water and used as a liquid manure. A light covering of limestone 
(just enough to whiten the soil) should be applied several times 
during the summer. (All materials necessary can be purchased 
from us). These instructions, if followed carefully, will result 
in good Roses from May 20th until heavy frost. 
Winter Protection of Your Roses 
Hybrid Teas, or everblooming monthly Roses, bloom on current 
year’s wood and after heavy, freezing weather in the Fall should 
be cut back to twelve inches high, hilling up the soil around 
the plants and an insulating cover of prairie hay packed over 
and around the bushes. While it is not absolutely necessary, 
some material to shed the water and the snow is beneficial and 
will insure the Roses coming through the winter without loss. 
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