FIELD SEED 
ALFALFA — Selection of Alfalfa seed is 
most important. The highest priced seed 
is often the cheapest. Remember that the 
loss on a poor stand is much greater than 
the difference in cost of the seed. 
We carry a full range of alfalfa varieties 
suited to the needs of this territory. 
Inoculation is necessary. Inoculation means 
putting or planting in the soil, nitrogen¬ 
fixing germs or bacteria without which the 
Alfalfa cannot flourish. Even though the 
soil has had previously inoculated crops, 
the introduction of vigorous, additional 
bacteria is vitally necessary for maximum 
results. 
CLOVER, WHITE or DUTCH — A low, 
close growing clover; very desirable for 
beautifying lawns. Will stand close cut¬ 
ting. Usuallly better to sow with other 
grasses. 
CLOVER, MEDIUM RED — The most valu¬ 
able of the Clover family. Makes two 
crops the second year. Does not exhaust 
the soil, but enriches it. 
CLOVER, SWEET, WHITE BLOSSOM — 
Most abundant growth of any of the 
Clovers. Makes a pasture earlier than other 
crops and will keep stock in good con¬ 
dition until winter regardless of heat and 
drought. Use to build up worn out fields. 
CLOVER, ALSIKE OR SWEDISH — Very 
hardy. Does better on moist land than 
other varieties of Clover. Suitable for 
hay or pasture. When sown with other 
grasses, forms a thick undergrowth and 
greatly increases the yield. Frequently 
sown both with Medium Red Clover and 
with Timothy, and the quality of hay 
thus produced is excellent. Finer and more 
leafy than Medium Red Clover and cattle 
prefer it. 
FESCUE, CHEWINGS — Of particular 
value for sandy soils; does well in shade. 
FESCUE, SHEEPS — Grows naturally on 
light, dry, sandy soils and mountain pas¬ 
tures; quite valuable mixed with other 
grasses for permanent early spring pas¬ 
ture. 
KENTUCKY BLUE GRASS — This makes 
the best, sweetest and most nutritious pas¬ 
ture for all kinds of stock. Very hardy, 
and is uninjured by cold or dry weather, 
hot sun or tramping of hoofs. Roots are 
so thick and stout that they form a tough 
sod. Requires two years to get well started, 
so is often sown in mixture with other 
grasses. 
ORCHARD GRASS — Hardy, quick-grow¬ 
ing. Gives a large yield of excellent hay. 
May be cut several times during season. 
Not recommended for lawn use. 
POA TRIVIALIS — One of the finest 
grasses for shady places. Does best on 
medium soils. 
RYE GRASS, PERENNIAL— Very nutri¬ 
tious; valuable for meadows or permanent 
pasture. Rapid growth. Drought resisting. 
RYE GRASS, DOMESTIC — Fast-grow¬ 
ing one-year grass. Makes a full crop, 
yields abundantly, and matures all in one 
season. Helpful as a nurse crop to other 
grasses. 
RED TOP — Valuable for moist rich soils. 
A good variety to sow with Timothy and 
Clover and is more permanent than either. 
Should be fed close. 
RAPE, DWARF ESSEX — Unequalled as a 
pasture for sheep, and as fattening foods 
for all livestock. 
SUDAN GRASS — The ideal emergency 
hay and pasture crop for late planting. 
Never plant until ground is thoroughly 
warmed. 
TIMOTHY — Unsurpassed as a crop for 
hay. Relished by all kinds of stock, especial¬ 
ly horses. Not suited for permanent pas¬ 
ture. 
SOY BEANS — One of the most valuable 
crops. As a hay crop, Soy Beans are 
higher in protein content than Clover 
and equal to Alfalfa. Excellent for silage 
grown with corn. Do not plant too early. 
BENT GRASS, ASTORIA — A compara¬ 
tively new and distinct kind of grass that 
spreads from underground stalks. In rich 
soil produces an unusually deep, rich 
green turf. 
FIELD CORN 
HYBRID and OPEN-POLLINATED — A 
good range of varieties and strains, select¬ 
ed and recommended by leading authori¬ 
ties and experimental stations as being 
the ones to plant for this territory. 
SEED POTATOES 
Our seed potatoes are strictly certified 
stock, especially selected on their record 
of success in this district. 
LAWN 
BEST LAWN MIXTURE—Our selected 
lawn mixture is the very finest com¬ 
bination of high quality seeds . . . 
a marvelous mixture that years of 
experimenting has proved to be safe 
and sound. It produces a lawn that is 
like a carpet of green velvet . . . 
smooth, even, and thick. All the 
grasses in it are fine-bladed and 
deep-rooting. 
SHADE MIXTURE — Wherever shade 
makes it difficult to obtain a good 
lawn, our special shade mixture 
is heartily recommended. Excellent 
quality, shade-enduring grasses and 
clovers . . . blended into a mixture 
that will give surprising results. 
KENTUCKY BLUE GRASS—Produces 
a deep dark green lawn of close, 
thick turf. Roots are deep, and plants 
very hardy. 
WHITE CLOVER — Very desirable in 
lawn mixtures because of its rapid, 
low growth and creeping stems. Valu¬ 
able as a green cover for poor 
ground. Very hardy. 
CHEWINGS FESCUE — Widely used 
for putting greens, fairways and tees. 
Very hardy, produces thick, durable 
turf, even under unfavorable con¬ 
ditions. 
ROUGH STALKED MEADOW GRASS 
(Poa trivialis) — Fine for shady or 
moist places. Leaves flat and light 
green, very dwarf growing. Does best 
on medium soils. 
RED TOP — Stands wet weather and 
overflowing for even two to three 
weeks. Holds well during summer 
if cut often. 
SEASIDE CREEPING BENT — Makes 
a thick, dense turf on heavy, sour 
soils. Unexcelled for fine lawns and 
putting greens. 
RYE GRASS — A rapid grower, valu¬ 
able in lawn mixtures demanding 
quick effect. Not long lasting. Does 
well on moist soils. 
May we suggest — 
Mow frequently. Grass allowed to go 
to seed does not spread and causes 
a spotty lawn. Early in the season, 
cut quite short. Fertilize well and try 
to get a complete ground cover. Then, 
when hot weather comes, cut as long 
as possible, about 3 inches high. This 
will shade grass roots, and prevent 
weeds and crab grass from seeding. 
Do not remove short grass clippings, 
but let them lie to decompose. Rotted 
grass clippings are the easiest way to 
return vegetable matter to the soil. 
Long grass, however, must be removed, 
as must leaves, and no compost should 
be added in hot weather, when grass 
is easily smothered. 
