Roses need sunshine, but half a day of it is sufficient. 
To prepare beds, remove one spade-depth of top-soil and 
pile it to one side. Make the hole deep and wide enough to 
accommodate the roots naturally. Then remove a second 
spade-depth. This is “subsoil,” to be taken away. Now you 
have a trench 18 inches deep. Rose-roots seldom go deeper. 
Now loosen dirt at bottom of trench with a spading-fork. 
Shovel in the top-soil, mixed with a liberal amount of old 
manure. Carry the Rose-plants to the trench in a bucket of 
water. Prune the roots by shortening the long ones and 
cutting the ends off the others. Put the plants in the hole. 
Work fine soil between the roots. Fill the hole a little at 
a time. Pack the soil hard on the roots. 
When the hole is three-quarters full, press the soil down 
hard with your heels. Then pour in plenty of water. When 
water has disappeared, fill with good garden soil to normal 
level. Do not pack any more. 
When planting in the spring, prune tops of plants at 
about 4 to 8 inches above soil-level. Be sure to leave two or 
three "eyes” above ground-level. This is extremely important. 
CULTURAL HINTS 
WATERING. Roses like plenty of water. Flood beds once 
every week or ten days by placing the hose on the bed and letting 
it run slowly so that water may reach deep to the roots. Avoid 
wetting the foliage, especially in the evening. 
SPENT BLOOMS should be removed cutting the stem above 
the first complete set of five leaves. If long-stemmed blooms are 
desired for cutting, remove old flowers so that two sets of leaves 
remain on the stalk. The next crop of blooms will spring from 
these eyes. 
FERTILIZERS. No fertilizer of any nature should be applied 
at the time of planting unless very carefully used. Roots are not yet 
in condition to consume it and it may do a great deal of harm to 
young fibrous roots which have to be formed after transplanting. 
Later a mixed or “complete” plant-food, such as Vigoro or its equal, 
is desirable. Apply very lightly (a tablespoonful per square foot or 
at the rate of 4 pounds per 100 square feet), starting 3 to 4 inches 
from the plant and applying in a circle around it, watering very 
liberally after each application. 
PRUNING everblooming climbers (Blaze, New Dawn, etc.) 
should not be done during the growing season because remontance 
(subsequent blooming) comes out of the first top eye under the 
previous cluster of blooms. Spent blooms may be pinched off but 
the flower-bearing stems must not be shortened or plants will stop 
reblooming. 
CULTIVATE frequently around Rose-plants. Do not allow the 
soil to bake and become hard at any time. Remember that roots 
breathe, and cultivation permits the air to reach the roots. With¬ 
out cultivation plants will remain at a standstill. 
FOLIAGE TROUBLE. Newer Roses are not as subject to dis¬ 
eases as older varieties; they are much more resistant and many are 
almost immune. However, atmospheric conditions are more favor¬ 
able some years than others, and an occasional dusting, or spraying 
with Tri-ogen, or its equivalent, will act as a preventive. 
WINTERING ROSES. After the first good heavy frost, bundle 
the branches together; cut them back to about 18 to 20 inches; 
mound earth around the plants up to 6 to 8 inches, or higher if 
practical; spread manure in the hollows between plants. Later on, 
when the ground is frozen, add a covering of leaves, straw, salt hay 
or cornstalks to keep the ground frozen and as a protection against 
sun and wind. In the spring, remove covering a little at a time, 
first straw or leaves, then the coarse part of the manure, and finally 
level the soil when danger of hard spring frost is past. On the 
Pacific Coast and in the South, this type of winter protection is, of 
course, not necessary. 
WINTERING TREE ROSES. Although J. & P. stems are winter 
hardy, the raised exposure of the head in the winter is often quite 
dangerous. Therefore, it is best to bend the Tree Roses over and 
protect the tops and the stems with a covering of soil. To bend 
them, remove soil from one side and gradually bend the whole 
plant in that direction and pin down. In very cold climates it is 
best to lift the entire plant and bury it in a well-drained piece of 
soil or in a frame, replanting in the spring. 
A Hybrid Tea 
Rose pruned bigb 
in spring. 
The result oj bigb 
pruning. Bare legs- 
tall growth. 
A Hybrid Tea 
pruned low in 
spring. 
Result of close 
pruning. Low, compact 
-large flowers. 
45 
