color. In still deeper shades are Oregon Rose and Chamouny, varieties that are very 
popular with visitors to the garden. 
Good orange Glads are not plentiful but we have a few good ones of which Barcarole 
is perhaps the most beautiful in color. La Fiesta the best for exhibition with its long 
spikes and many open blooms, and Uncas the most consistent commercial variety. Coral 
Glow (Ellis) is not exactly an orange but surely is one of the most beautiful of the new 
Glads. Bit o’ Heaven is beautiful in mass but single spikes are not quite so impressive 
as some others. 
Reds are found in large numbers but most of them have their faults. Timbuctoo looked 
like one of the best of the newer ones and Valeria about the best of the rose reds. In 
bright red, almost scarlet, Hindenburg’s Memory is a very showy giant flower. Flaming 
Meteor is still one of the most showy Glads in my garden. For deep rich color in huge 
size, Rewi Fallu is perhaps the best. In some weather it is inclined to be a little floppy if 
developed in the field but it is a most impressive flower when cut. Del Rey and Beacon 
might be classed as reds and with their light colored throats they show off to good 
advantage. Both should be very good florists’ flowers. 
We usually call anything that cannot be classified otherwise as smoky Glads. Of these, 
perhaps none are more attractive in coloring than Jalna. Zuni, and Vagabond Prince. 
Irak is a beautiful soft grey flower with large size and tremendous spikes. Another of 
exhibition calibre is Changeable Silk. 
Worth-while lavenders are scarce but I have had very fine blooms from Gertrude 
Swenson, and Lavender Delight seems quite a consistent performer. 
We cannot well pass up Margaret Beaton and Ariadne, two blotched whites. And 
there are others that deserve mention but lack of space must preclude naming all of them. 
DAFFODILS AND IRIS 
We grow a good selection of Bearded Iris and Novelty Daffodils and anyone inter¬ 
ested in these is invited to send for list. We are sorry that we were unable to get out a 
list of these flowers last year but we hope to present a list of them this coming spring. 
We are particularly interested in Daffodils of which we grow about 250 of the better 
new varieties. 
VISITORS 
Visitors are welcome to our gardens except on Sundays. To find our place, one may go 
south through Lebanon on the main street. After reaching the south edge of town, take 
the first road to the left and follow along the Santiam River three miles, where our sign 
is located. 
CULTURAL DIRECTIONS 
Doubtless, most of my customers have grown Glads for several years, and to those, 
the giving of these instructions may seem superfluous, but for those who have never grown 
these flowers, perhaps a few words may be beneficial. Glads are as easy to grow as the 
average flowers, but blooming in the heat of summer, it is necessary that they be given 
an abundant supply of water for best results, and in sections where highest temperatures 
prevail, the early and the late blooms are likely to be best. Large bulbs should be planted 
from four to six inches deep in any good garden soil away from trees and shrubs and 
not too close to building foundations. They may be planted in full sun or where they will 
receive some shade from the afternoon sun. For finest blooms the bulbs should be planted 
six or eight inches apart. The surface of the soil should be kept well cultivated and water 
given whenever necessary but rather than giving a sprinkling every day or two, it is much 
preferable to give a thorough soaking once a week. A good balanced fertilizer may be 
given when the plants are about two feet high but direct contact with the plants should 
be avoided. If plants show a tendency to lean over it is well to stake them before' they 
start blooming. Bulbs may be dug in October, at which time the tops should be cut off 
and the bulbs dried for a few weeks. In three weeks or a month the old roots may be 
removed and the bulbs stored in a frost-proof dry place until planting time. 
Small bulbs and bulblets may be planted more shallow and closer together than large 
bulbs. If one plants bulblets of very expensive varieties, it is recommended that the 
shell be cracked before planting. Some varieties germinate readily without cracking the 
shell but in the case of some, the bulblets are apt to lay dormant a year before starting 
growth. Soaking bulblets a day or so before planting often aids germination. 
Glads are subject to some diseases which are more or less troublesome at times, but 
they usually do not bother much if one changes the location of the planting frequently. 
However, the worst pest to contend with is the Glad thrips. 
There are now a good many preparations on the market for combatting this insect. 
Naphthalene flakes used during the winter will insure one having clean bulbs to plant. 
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