Mundy's Dahlia Gardens 
Coldwater, Michigan 
DAHLIA CULTURE 
SOIL — Dahlias will gi'ow in any soil provided there are sufficient plant foods in 
the soil to supply the needs for proper growth. Many soils can be improved to 
grow better dahlias. A heavy soil or clay may be improved by the addition of 
sand and the use of quantities of rotted manure and peat. 
FERTILIZER — Before adding plant foods, have your soil tested to determine de¬ 
ficiencies. Generally, 5 to 10 pounds per 100 square feet of a fertilizer analyzing 
4-12-4, or thereabouts, will meet most requirements, if the soil has already had 
organic material added to it. After the first of August, when the plants are be¬ 
ginning to show flower buds, “feeding” with small amonts of nitrogenous fertil¬ 
izers, once or twice, will favor the development of larger flowers and more vigorous 
plants. 
DIVISION — Never plant a “clump” of roots. Divide the clump carefully into a 
number of parts so that each division will have one sound, healthy tuber, and one 
or two plump buds. 
PLANTING — For exhibition flowers, dahlias should be planted at least 3 feet apart 
each way. Dwarf varieties for bedding and varieties used for landscape effect may 
be planted closer. Dwarf singles, as Goltness Gem, should be planted 12 to 14 
inch'^s apart for best bedding effects. Dig the holes at least 6 inches deep. Place 
the tuber horizontally in the bottom of the hole with the bud an inch or so from 
the stake. Cover the roots with about 2 to 3 inches of soil. As the plants grow 
the hole may be filled in by cultivating. 
STAKING — Five to six foot stakes will be required to support tall growing varieties. 
The stakes should be set in at the time of planting. If you wait until later to 
drive in the stakes, much damage may be done to the roots of the plants. 
PRUNING — Large-flowered types and bedding types should have the tips of the 
plants cut out when they have reached a height of 8 to 12 inches. Cactus varieties 
are often permitted to grow until the first bud appears. These are then pinched 
out to encourage the growth of the laterals. For exhibition flowers, allow only 3 
or 4 branches to develop. Remove side buds and all laterals, except those at the 
bottom, from each of the branches. 
WATERING — If “green plants” are planted, water carefully for the first 2 weeks. 
Through July never allow the soil to dry out sufficiently to cause a checking of the 
growth. After the first of August and until early or mid-September, dahlias will 
require plenty of water. If the soil is well drained, there is not much danger of 
overwatering. Throughout the summer on dry hot days, the plants will be much 
benefited by a thorough syringing in the late afternoon. 
DIGGING — After the first heavy frost, the tops of the plants will blacken and dry. 
A few days to a week after a’frost the tops should be cut off and the clumps dug 
up. They should be carfully dried off in the sun for several hours before being 
stored. 
STORAGE — Store the tubers in dry granulated peat in a cool place. The best 
storage temperature is about 45 degrees Fahrenheit. The storage atmosphere 
should be moist enough to prevent excess drying of the roots and at the same time 
not so moist as to encourage mold or storage rots. 
In the fall when your dahlias are blooming, enter some blooms in the Dahlia 
shows near you. You will have lots of pleasure and will learn much about dahlias 
at the exhibitions. 
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