Lakeside Dahlia Gardens 
New Baltimore, Michigan 
DAHLIA CULTURE 
SOIL —Dahlias will grow in any soil provided there 
ore sufficient plant foods in the soil to supply the needs 
for proper growth. Many soils can be improved to grow 
better dahlias. A heavy soil or clay soil may be improved 
by the addition of sand and the use of quantities of 
rotted manure and peat. 
FERTILIZER —Before adding plant foods, have your 
soil tested to determine deficiencies. Generally, 5 to 10 
pounds per 100 square feet of a fertilizer analyzing 
4-12-4, or thereabouts, will meet most requirements, if 
the soil has already had organic material added to it. 
After the first of August, when the plants are beginning 
to show flower buds, “feeding” with small amounts of 
nitrogenous fertilizers, once or twice, will favor the 
development of larger flowers and more vigorous plants. 
DIVISIONS —Never plant a “clump” of roots. Divide 
the clump carefully into a number of parts so that each 
division will have one sound, healthy tuber, and one or 
two plump buds. 
PLANTING —For exhibition flowers, dahlias should be 
planted at least 3 feet apart each way. Dwarf varieties 
for bedding and varieties used for landscape effect may 
be planted closer. Dwarf singles, as Coltness Gem, should 
be planted 12 to 14 inches apart for best bedding effects. 
Dig the holes at least 6 inches deep. Place the tuber 
horizontally in the bottom of the hole with the bud an 
inch or so from the stake. Cover the roots with about 
2 to 3 inches of soil. As the plants grow the hole may 
be filled in by cultivating. 
STAKING —Five to six foot stakes will be required to 
support tall growing varieties. The stakes should be set 
in at the time of planting. If you wait until later to 
drive in the stakes, much damage may be done to the 
roots of the plants. 
PRUNING —Large-flowered types and bedding types 
should have the tips of the plants cut out when they have 
reached a height of 8 to 12 inches. Cactus varieties are 
often permitted to grow until the first buds appear. These 
are then pinched out to encourage the growth of the 
laterals. For exhibition flowers, allow only 3 or 4 
branches to develop. Remove side buds and all laterals, 
except those at the bottom, from each of the branches. 
WATERING —If “green plants” are planted, water 
carefully for the first 2 weeks. Through July never 
allow the soil to dry out sufficiently to cause a checking 
of the growth. After the first of August and unil early 
or mid-September, dahlias will require plenty of water. 
If the soil is well drained, there is not much danger of 
overwatering. Throughout the summer on dry hot days, 
the plants will be much benefited by a thorough syringing 
in the late afternoon. 
DIGGING —After the first heavy frost, the tops of the 
plants will blacken and dry. A few days to a week after 
a frost the tops should be cut off and the clumps dug up. 
They should be carefully dried off in the sun for several 
hours before being stored. 
