IS 11.] Letters of a Wanderer through England and Wales, i i 
standing, indiscribably interesting, and, 
in my opinion, more deserving of a visit 
than a number of the higiily-celebrated 
scenes vvliich are resorted to, and extolled 
as the most sublimely beautiful in nature. 
Sweet scenes of peacefulness! never, 
in all human probability, shall I revisit 
you, nor again explore your vvild seques¬ 
tered recesses! But, though distant, 
while the brittle cord, novv nearly severed, 
retains its hold, never shall I^cease to 
reflect with satisfaction on the hours 
which, (luring two long summers, I vvas 
wont to pass amidst your interesting 
beauties; when oft, with no companion, 
save my <)\vn reflections, I have wandered 
round the unfrequented mountain-lakes; 
explored the most sequestered vallies, and 
viewed the “ bright tumbling of the 
waters^* of many a roaring torrent, known 
only to the shepherds of the neighbour¬ 
ing plains ; or, seated c-n a craggy point, 
have sketched the prominent features of 
the landscape, the “ world forgetting,’^ 
and perfectly indifferent if not equally 
“ bv the world forgot.” 
On quilting Hays-waterwe pursued the 
course of the stream that issues thence, 
and, falling over rocks and precipices, 
hastens to unite its waters with the little 
lake in Patcerdale. On this streaui (or 
Beck) there are several romantic scenes, 
and one cascade is particularly deserving 
of notice, from its grand effect in falling, 
in two distinct sheets, on heights of up¬ 
wards of fourscore feet, environed by 
crags, and a profusion of mountain-ash 
and other trees, whose pendant boughs 
drop into the stream, and, until you des¬ 
cend towards its banks, obscure it from 
sight. 
There are other lesser and very pretty 
falls on this stream ; and the mountains, 
which are only separated by a narrow 
gulph, rise to an astonishing height; their 
pale-green sides covered with flocks of 
sheep, of a small and- hardy race, and 
their surface broken by many a rough 
projecting crag. As the last beams of the 
sun had gildeti the horizon, and shed the 
sweetest rays of light upon the face of 
nature, we again reached the cottage 
where we had left our horstis in the morn¬ 
ing ; when, having procured some deli¬ 
cious new milk to allay our thirst, and re¬ 
fresh us after our long w'alk, we retraced 
our (vay to the inn, well pleased with our 
excursion, and ready to underiake ano¬ 
ther mountainous expedition on the fol¬ 
lowing morning. The day, however, 
proved unfavourable for the purpose. 
The vallies were free from moisture, but 
the heights were covered by heavy va¬ 
pours; and it was only at intervals the 
dark lofty sides of Helvellyn, and its 
scarce less-dwful neighbours, were dis¬ 
cernible; w'e therefore gave up the idea 
of visiting two small lakes amongst the 
mountains, called Grisedale Tarn, and 
Tied Tarn, and passed the early part of^ 
the day in wandering over a part of tlie 
beautiful banks of Ullswater, and takino’ 
a peep into the romantic dells I before 
mentioned as interrupting the mountain¬ 
ous line upon its western shore.' In tha 
evening we bade adieu to Patterdale; 
and, after traversing the road that leads 
to its extremity, we betian to ascend the 
steep and fearful pass of Kirkstone, where 
the lofty rugged mountains are separated 
only by a narrow rill of water, and the , 
precipices tliickiy strewm with stones, 
parted from their summits by wintry 
storms, altogether presenting the most 
frightful picture of sterility and de¬ 
solation it is possible to imagine. Not a. 
Single bush, or scarce an appearance of 
vegetation, diversifies the gloomy horror 
of the scene, wliich continues no less 
dreary and inhospitable for the space of. 
several miles; when suddenly the eye 
rests on the distant view of Windermere, 
and at each succeeding step towards tha 
little town of Ambleside, the contrast 
becomes still stronger, twixl the vale to 
which the traveller is approaching, and 
the desolate region he has lately tra¬ 
versed, ‘ 
On reacfliing Ambleside, vve engatied 
apartments at the Salutation (a very com¬ 
fortable inn), intending to make that 
place our head-quarters, while we visited 
some of the most picturesque spots of the 
adjacent country ; and, ordering an early 
supper, we strolled out while it was pre¬ 
paring, and enjoyed a delightful ramble 
along a path ttiat led us past the head of 
the lake, and carried us by the side of 
the little river Bothay, near to Rydal- 
water (whence it issues), and wliere the 
scenery is peculiarly interesting and ro¬ 
mantic — wliere rucks rest on rocks, and 
mountain hangs on mountain, with all 
their beautiful accompaniments of wood$ 
and single trees, starting from the crevices 
in the wildest precipices, and dro./ping 
over the path in the most pieptresque 
and graceful manner. Charmed with our 
ramble, we heeded not the lateness of the 
bour^ but continued to admire and trace 
the various sceoes qf loveliness around 
us. which were rendered doubly interesr- 
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