fountfiln of tiie Sithnides, and the aque¬ 
duct of riieugenes, Pausanias has extol¬ 
led rhem too highly. 
Mogara, winch yet retains its name, 
and the harbour ef Nistea, formerly con¬ 
tained some fine monuments. Greece, 
under the Homan emperors, must have 
nearly resembled Italy during the last 
century ; it was a classic region, every 
city ot wijich teemed with master-pieces. 
At Megara, were to be seen the twelve 
superior deities, by Praxiteles, a Jupiter 
Olympius, begun by Tlteocosmos attd 
Phid ias, and the tombs of Alcmene, 
Ipliigenia, and Tereus. On the last of 
these, the figure of the hoopoe was seeii 
for the first time, whence it was conciucl- 
ed that Tereus w'as metamorphosed into 
that bird^ as his victims were transformed 
into the swallow and the nightingale. 
As I was making a poetical tour, I,could 
do no other than firmly believe with Pau¬ 
sanias, that tlie adventures of the daugh- 
ter of Pandion began and ended at 
Megara. I perceived, moreover, from 
Megara, the two summits of Parnassus, 
and this was sufficient to remind me of 
the lines of Virgil and La Fontaine : 
^ualis populea mcerens Philomela, &c. 
Niglit or Darkness, and Jupiter Co- 
r.ius, had temples at Megara, and it may 
be asserted, that those two deities still 
continue to reside there. You see iiere 
and there some fragments of walls ; 
whether they are pare of those which 
Apollo erected, in conjunction with Al- 
cathous, I cannot tell. The god, wliile 
engaged in this work, laid ids lyre upon 
a stone, vvhich has ever since emitted an 
liarmonious sound w'hen it is touched 
witii a pebble. I did not look for Eu- 
clid’s school: I should iiave been much 
better pleased to discover the house of 
that pious rernaie who interred Phocion’s 
bones beneath her hearth. 
LLEUSfS. 
While I was at the floor, giving direc¬ 
tions to Joseph, a Greek came up and 
saluted me in Italian. He immediately 
gave me his history: he was a native of 
Athens, atid was a friend of M. Fau'vel. 
I was delighted at meeting with this man, 
hoping that I should obtain from him 
some information reS'peeting tiie ruins 
and the places in the neighbourhood; I 
therefore requested him to give me some 
account of the places before me, and to 
inform me what things were worth see- 
itrg. Laying his hand upon his breast, 
in the manner of the- lurks, h§ 
low bow. I have,” replied he, often 
heard M, Fauvel explain all that; but, 
for my own part, I am but au ignorant 
man, and don’t even know whether it is 
all true or not. In the first place, you 
see to lire west, above the promoiitorv, 
the top of a mountain perfectly yellow 5 
tliat is the lYlo Vouni (the Little Hy» 
mettus). The island on the other side 
of that arm of the sea is Colouri ; M. 
Fauvel calls it Salarais, and says that, in 
tlie channel opposite to you,'a famous 
battle was ioughc between the fleets o£ 
the Greeks and Persians, Tlie Greeks 
were stationed in this channel ; the Per¬ 
sians on the otiier side towards the Lion^s* 
Port^ (the Pirjsus), The king of those 
Persians, whose name I have forgotten, 
was seated on a throne placed at the 
point of that cape. As to the village 
where w'e are, M. Fauvel gives it_ the 
name or Eleusis ; but we call it Lepsina» 
He says, that there was once a temple 
(the temple of Ceres) below this house 5 
and, if you will take the trouble to walk 
a few steps, you may see the spot where 
stood the mutilated idol of that temple 
(the statue of Ceres Eleusina); but it 
has been taken avvay by the English.’^ 
I strolled among the ruins, went down 
to the port, and paused to survey the 
Streight of Salamis. The festivities and 
the glory of Eleusis are past; profound 
silence pervaded both the land and the 
sea: no acclamations, no songs, no pom¬ 
pous ceremonies on shore; no warlike 
shouts, no shock of galleys, no tumult 
of battle oti the waves. My imagina¬ 
tion was too confined now to figure to 
itself the religious procession of Eleusis; 
now to cover the shore with the countless 
host of Persians watching the battle of 
Salamis. Eleusis is, in my opinion, the 
most venerable place in Greece, because 
tlie unity of God was .there inculcated, 
and because.it witnessed the grandest: 
struggle ever made by men in defence of 
liberty. 
Who would believe that Salamis is, at 
the present day, almost wholly eflacecl 
from the memory of the Greeks. The 
reader has seen how my Athenian ex¬ 
pressed liimself. “ Ti)e island of Sa!a» 
mis,” says M. Fauvel, in his Memoirs, 
has not retained its name; it is fci* 
gotten, togethen vvith tliat of Themisto^ 
cles,”^ Spoil relates, that he lodged at 
Salamis with the papas Joannis, a 
man,” he adds, less ignorant than 
any of his parishioners, since he knevy 
that the island was fonneily called Sala- 
stad this informatioa ij.g received 
i t\Qm 
