Athens. 
Gli 
aged willows. T alighted to salute the Athens. 
river and to drink of its water; I found About four in the afternoon, the heat 
just as much, as I wanted in a hollow, beginning to abate, M. Fauvei ordereil 
cli^ to the bank; the rest had been his janissary and mine to attend us, and 
turned oiF higher up, to irrigate the we went out preceded by our guards, 
plantations of olives. I have always IMy heart palpitated with joy, and I 
taken a pleasure in drinking at the cele- vvas ashamed of being so youtig. My 
brated rivers which I have passed in my guide pointed out the relics of an antique 
life j thus I have drunk of the w'ater of temple, almost at his own door; then, 
tlie iMississipi, the Thames, the Rhine, turning to tlie right, we proceeded along 
the Po, the Tiber, the Eurotas, the small but very populous streets. We 
Cephisus, the Hertnus, the Granicus, passed through tl>e bazar, abundant'y 
the Jordan, the Nile, the Tagus, and supplied with butchers’ meat, game, ve- 
the Ebro. What numbers on the banks getables, and fruit. Every body saluted 
of those rivers might say w’ith the M. Fauvel, and enquired vviio I was, 
Israelites: Sedimus et Jicvhnus / but not one was able to pronounce my 
I perceived, at some distance on my name. We find the same inquisitive 
left, tlie ruins of the bridge over the Ce- disposition as in ancient Athens: “ All 
phisus, built by Xenocles of Lindus, I the Athenians,says St. Luke, spent 
mounted my iiorse without looking for their time in nothing else but either to 
the sacred fig-tree, the altar of Zephyrns, tell or to hear some new thiiig.’^ As to 
or the pillar of Anthemocritus; for the the Turks, they exclaimed : FraJisouse ! 
modern road deviates in this part from the Effendi ! and continued to smoke their 
ancient Sacred Way. On leaving the olive- pjpes, their favorite amusement. The 
w'oodj w'e came to a garden surrounded Greeks, on seeing us pass, raised their 
with walls, which occupies nearly tiie arms above their heads, and cried: 
site of the outer Ceramicus. We pro- Ka/os iltliete Archondes! .Bute kala eis 
ceeded for about half an hour, through paUeo Atfnnan ! “ Welcome, gentlemen ! 
wlieat stubbles, before we reached A goon journey to the ruins of Athens !'^ 
Athens. A modern wall, recently re- and they looked as proud, as if they had 
paired, and resembling a garden wall, said to us: you are going to Phidias or to 
encompasses the city. We passed Ictinus. I had not eyes enough to em- 
througli the gate, and entered little rural brace the objects that struck my view, 
streets, cool, and very clean : each house and fancied that I discovered antiqu^- 
has its garden, planted with orange and ties at every step. 
fig-trees, Tlie inhabitants appeared to On passing the middle of modern 
me to be lively and inquisitive, and bad Athens, and proceeding directly we&t, 
not the dejected look of the people of the houses begin to be more detached, 
Morea. We were shewn the house and then appear large vacant spaces, 
of thd consul. some inclosed within the walls of the 
I could not have had a belter recom- city, and others lying without the walls, 
mendation than to M. Fauvel, for seeing In these forsaken spaces we find the 
Athens. He has resided for many years temple of Theseus, the Pnvx, and t])e 
in the city of Minerva, and is much bet- Areojjngus. I shall not describe the 
ter acquainted with its minutest details first, of which there are already so many 
than a Parisian is with Paris. Some descriptions, and wiiich bears a great 
excellent Memoirs by him, have been resemblance to the Parthenon; but corn- 
published ; and to liim we are indebted prebend it in the general reflections 
for most interesting discoveries relatives- which I shall presently make on the sub- 
Jo the site of Olympia, the plain of ject of the- architecture of the Greeks. 
Marathon, the tomb of Themistocies at Tins temple is in better preservation 
the Pirasus, the temple of Venus in the ilian any other edifice in Athens: after 
gardens, &c. Invested with the ap- liaving long been a church dedicatefl to 
pointment of eonsui at Athens, which St. Geoi^e, it is now used tor a store- 
merely serves him as a protection ; he house. 
has been, and still is, engaged as The Areopagus was situated on an 
draughtsman upon the Voyage pitto- eminence to the west of tlie citaneL 
resgue de la Grtce. ]\L de Choiseul You can scarcely conceive how it was 
Gouflier, the author of that work, had possible to erect a structure of any mag- 
favoured me with a letter for the artist, nitude on the rock, where its ruins are 
and I was furnished, by the minister, to be seen. A little valley, called in 
with another fon the consuU ancient Atliens, Cale^ the hollow^, sepa- 
4 N raccfe 
