652 
Chaieaiihrland's Travels in Greece^ Palestine^ Kc, 
Aciii’les spent liis infancy ; Delos, bele- 
lirated for tlie biitli of Diana and Apollo, 
Sor its palm-tree and its festivals ; Naxos, 
■^vhich reminded me of Ariadne, Theseus, 
and Bacchus. But all these islands, 
once so enchanting, or perhaps so highly 
embellished by the imaginations of the 
poets, now wear no ocher appearance 
t.han that of desolation and sterility. 
Dreary villages rise in the form of a su¬ 
gar-loaf upon the rocks; they are com¬ 
manded by castles still more dreary, and 
sometimes surrounded with a double or 
a triple wall, within which the inhabi¬ 
tants live in perpetual fear of the I'urks 
and ofpirates. As these fortified villages 
are nevertheless falling to ruin, they con¬ 
vey to the mind of the traveller, an idea 
ot every species of wretchedness at once. 
Housseau somewhere says, that he washed 
himself exiled to one of the islands of the 
Archipelago. The eloquent sophist 
would soon have repented his choice. 
(Separated from his admirers, banished 
among clownish and perfidious Greeks, 
would have found neither flowers, 
1101 brooks, nor shade, in the vallies 
schorched by the sun; he w'ould have 
beheld around him no other objects than 
clumps of olive-trees, and reddish rocks 
covered with sage and bairn ; and I 
shrewdly suspect tliat he w^ould not have 
wished to continue his walks for any 
length of time, to the whistling of the 
wind and the roaring of tiie sea, along an 
uninhabited coast. 
CilfO. 
•lathe night we came to an anchor in 
the port of Chio, the favoured country 
of flomer. I was in a sound sleep, from 
which Joseph did not wake me till seven 
in the morning. I lay upon the deck, 
and, W'hen I opened my eyes, I fancied 
that I was transported into some fairy 
region. I found myself in the midst of a 
port full of shipping, having before me a 
charming town overlooked by hills, wlmse 
ridges were covered with olive, palm, 
mastick, and turpentine, trees. Tl>e 
quays were thronged with Greeks, Franks, 
ami Turks, and the car was sainted with 
fhe ringing of bells. 
-P-ErLECTIOKS ON LEAVING SMYRNA. 
I then recollected for the fir-st time,, 
that I was treading the plains of Asia ; 
n quarter of the globe which had not yet 
Viejicid the traces of my steps, nor, alas ! 
those .sorrows, which I shine with the 
rest of meukiud. I teit impressed with 
profound respect ibr thhi sod-, 
w hich w’as the cradle of the human raeCj 
the abode of the patriarchs; where Tyre 
and Babylon reared their haughty heads; 
where the Eternal called Cyrus and Alex¬ 
ander; and where Christ accomplisheci 
the mystery of our salvation. A new 
world lay open before me; I was going 
to visit nations to which I was a stranger; 
to observe different manners and diflferent 
customs y to behold other animals, other 
plants, new sky, and a new nature. I 
should soon pass the Hermus and the 
Granicus: Sardis was not far distant: I 
was advancing towards Pergamus and 
Troy. History^ unfolded to me another 
page of the revolutions of mankind. 
THE GRANICUS. 
This river of Sousonghirli is no other 
than the Granicus ; and this unknown 
plain is the plain of Mysia.—What is 
then the spell of glory? A traveller 
comes to a river, in which he observes 
'iioiliing remarkable; he is told that the 
name of this river is Sousonghirli: he 
crosses it and pursues his way. But 
should some one perchance call out to 
him; 'Tis the Granicus!—he starts, 
opens his astonished eyes, Axes them on 
the river, as if the w’ater possessed a 
magic power, or as if a supernatural 
voice were, to be heard on its banks. We 
halted three hours at Sousonghirli, and 
I spent the whole of that time in contem¬ 
plating the Granicus. It is very narrow ; 
the west bank is steep and rugged ; and 
its water, which is bright and limpid, 
flows over a sandy bottom. This stream, 
in the place where I saw it, is not more 
than forty feet broad, and three and a 
half deep^; but in spring it risos and runs 
with impetuosity. 
Here fell an immense empire, and 
here rose an empire still more immense; 
tlie Indian Ocearr heard the fall of the 
throne that was overLurned near the 
shores of the Propontis ; the Ganges be¬ 
held the approach of the leopard with 
four wings, which triumphed on the 
banks of the Granicus; Babylon, w hich 
the king built in the splendor of Jils 
power, opened her gates to admit a new 
master; Tyre, the queen of ships, was 
humbled, and her rival sprang up out of 
the sands of Alexandria. 
TROY. 
When f was tohl, at six in the morn¬ 
ing of the 2l5t of September, that we 
were iusL going to double the castle of 
the Dardanelles, the fever was dispelled 
by th« rteinUi-tfoils of Tioy> I cy aw led 
