THRIPS CONTROL 
MADE EASY 
Control of thrips is now very definitely a 
matter of record. In fact, one brief sentence 
tells the story — start the season with clean 
bulbs, then either plant early, or spray regu¬ 
larly, or both. 
PLANT EARLY — December and January 
are the safest months in Southern California; 
January and February in central California; 
and March in most other places. Migratory 
thrips from neighboring gardens are not likely 
to reach such early plantings in time to in¬ 
jure the blooms. The damage is not from the 
first few thrips, but from the thousands of 
offspring that develop after several weeks of 
breeding. 
START SPRAYING EARLY — Early plant¬ 
ings should give uninjured blooms; regular 
spraying, started while the plants are young, 
makes it almost certain that your blooms will 
come through in good shape. Spraying is es¬ 
sential for late or for very large plantings. 
Start when the plants are two to three inches 
tall, and spray at least once a week. To 
avoid spray-burning, never spray until eve¬ 
ning during spells of warm weather. 
TO PROTECT OR SAVE YOUR OWN BULBS 
— If you have had thrips, you do not need 
to throw your bulbs away. Dig them while 
the stalks are still a little green (about five 
week after blooming), and cut off and burn 
ALL the old stalks just before digging. Keep 
the bulbs away from other infested plantings 
while curing. When thoroughly cured, store 
them. Sprinkle one pound of napthalene 
flakes among each thousand bulbs. Small 
quantities of bulbs should be placed in a 
small bag, which, in turn, should be placed 
(open at the top) in a large bag containing 
a few napthalene flakes. This is to keep the 
bulbs from direct contact with the napthalene; 
where the quantity of bulbs is larger, other 
means should be taken to accomplish the 
same result. Not more than twenty-four hours 
before planting, peel the bulbs and dip them 
in 120° hot water for about two minutes. 
(About as hot as the average person can stand 
with his hand fully immersed). 
Note: The bulbs we supply have been 
fully protected by fumigation, and need not 
be treated unless stored with your other bulbs 
after leaving our sheds. 
SPRAYS — We are inclined to select the 
Barfoot Rotenone Spray as the most effective. 
We use it, and if you cannot get it locally, 
we can supply it. However, for the small 
garden, other sprays, such as Lethane 440, 
are very good — in fact, if your planting is 
not large, use almost any kind of spray that 
you use on the rest of the garden. But be 
sure to spray often —■ once a week for small 
plantings, oftener for large patches of glad¬ 
iolus. Bear in mind, however, that spraying 
is done to keep down stray thrips, but seldom 
does any good once you have a bad infesta¬ 
tion. However, you can always save choice 
spikes, even in an infestation by giving them 
daily "massaging" while the spike is in bud. 
This crushes and kills the thrips that are hid¬ 
den in the sheaf, and these are the thrips that 
do the "dirty work." 
PEGGY LOU. "Picardy in a new color." 
Raised from the same cross that produced 
Picardy, this outstanding new gladiolus Is 
identical in form to the latter, being tall, hav¬ 
ing the same size and form of floret, the 
same good placement and vigorous growth. 
Heavier leathery substance than Picardy, 
however. The new color is, too, a most 
welcome one, for it is a blue-toned pink, 
rather than the opricot-pink of Picardy. 
Closer, in fact, to the orchid pink of Sal- 
bach's Orchid — but pinker and Jess on 
the orchid shade. Champion spike. East 
Bay Gladiolus Society Show, 1938. Mid¬ 
season. 
each 3 
6 
12 
L. .25 .65 
1.25 
2.40 
M. .15 .40 
.75 
1.45 
S. 
.30 
.50 
Bits. 25 for .25 
PFITZER'S MASTERPIECE. Resembles Cory¬ 
phee, but deeper in color. It is a soft sal¬ 
mon pink with white throat, although under 
some conditions the blooms come lighter, 
approaching the wax pink of Coryphee. 
Very tall, perfect facing and placing, with 
7 of 
18 or 
19 buds open 
at once. 
A vigor- 
ous 
grower. Early. 
each 
3 
6 
12 
L. 
.25 
.65 
1.25 
2.35 
M. 
.20 
.55 
1.00 
1.90 
S. 
.15 
.40 
.75 
1.40 
Bits. 
25 for 
.50 
PICARDY. A most sensational flower of deli¬ 
cate glowing flesh pink. Most popular glad¬ 
iolus of all A. G. S., symposium, and will 
unquestionably be the "best seller" again 
this year. First as best bloom in National 
Show at Century of Progress, and winner of 
many awards as "best flower in the show." 
Large blooms, many florets open, good 
placement — at popular prices this season, 
and should be in every garden. 
each 
3 
6 
12 
25 
100 
L. .10 
.20 
.35 
.60 
1.10 
4.00 
M. 
.15 
.20 
.35 
.70 
2.25 
PINK PRINCESS (Salbach 1938). Tall, straight 
and clear of color, this is an outstanding 
new gladiolus. Very tall, standing SVz feet 
tall, 10 of 18 buds open at once. Place¬ 
ment perfect. In fact, it is perfect in every 
respect, except that it could have larger 
blooms in view of its extreme height and 
vigor, (i. e.: blooms are of good medium size, 
but not as large as those of Mrs. Douglas, 
and some of the other very tall varieties.) 
The color is very appealing — a deep 
flesh pink almost salmon. Very heavy sul> 
stance — does not fade or burn in hot 
weather. Buds open to the tip when cut. 
Very vigorous. First award recent intro¬ 
duction class East Bay Gladiolus Show 1938. 
each 
3 
6 
12 
25 
L. 1.00 
2.00 
3.00 
5.00 
M. .60 
1.20 
1.75 
3.00 
.... 
S. .35 
.75 
1.25 
2.00 
3.50 
Bits. 20 for .50 
PRIMROSE PRINCESS 
(Salbach). Very 
fine 
yellow, still 
capable of holding its 
own 
against even 
the newest 
yellows. 
Very 
large, stately. 
wide 
open, primrose yellow. 
Five to 7 open at 
once. 
Tall spike and 
large florets. 
Large 
only. 
each 3 
6 
12 
25 
100 
L. .10 .20 
.35 
.60 
I.IO 
4.00 
"You certainly have a winner in Grand 
Opera. I think it is the best I have ever 
grown. — J. F. H., California. 
Carl Salbach ••• 
QUEEN HELEN II (Salbach 1934). A very re¬ 
fined clear-cut gladiolus. Not only is the 
flower beautiful, but it has definitely proven 
itself to be one of the best, if not the best, 
doers in extreme heat. 
Grenadine pink, delightfully enhanced by 
pinard yellow blotch in the throat. Perfect 
placement. 
Six wide-open florets in bloom at once 
with 12 additional buds. 
each 
3 
6 
12 
25 
100 
L. .10 
.20 
.35 
.60 
1.15 
4.00 
M. 
.15 
.20 
.35 
.70 
2.25 
S. 
.15 
.25 
.40 
1.35 
Bits. 100 
for .30; 350 
for .75 
QUEEN MARILYNN. See 1940 introductions. 
Page 2. 
RED LIGHTNING. See 1940 introductions. 
Page 2. 
RED PHIPPS. A glowing shade of coral red 
that makes this gladiolus very desirable as 
a cut flower. The long flower head, and 
good placement of florets also makes this a 
good exhibition variety. 
Large, each .10; 3 for .20; 6 for .35: 12 for .60 
REGENT. A large, rich scarlet, with wide 
open florets, good substance, placing and 
facing. Excellent in every way. Seven to 
10 of 20 buds open at once on a very tall 
stalk. Opens to the tip. Color rich scar¬ 
let shading slightly deeper in the throat. 
each 
3 
6 
L. 
.45 
1.30 
2.40 
M. 
.30 
.75 
1.45 
S. 
.20 
.50 
.95 
Bits. 
10 for 
.25 
REWII FALLU. A splendid new variety from 
Australia. One of the largest and most rich¬ 
ly colored. Blooms very large, with as 
many as 6 open at one time. With a little 
longer flower spike Rewii Fallu would be 
classed as one of the best 10. A vigorous 
grower and a good producer of big round 
bulblets. Blooms freely from small bulbs. 
Deep rich velvety red. Very popular. 
each 
3 
6 
12 
25 
L. 
.15 
.30 
.50 
.90 
1.75 
M. 
.... 
.15 
.25 
.40 
.75 
S. 
.10 
.15 
.25 
.45 
Bits. 100 for .70 
RIMA. One of the most delightful of the new 
introductions. A very pale lavender pink 
with white throat. The same type of flower 
as Coryphee (but with straight spikes) only 
light lavender pink, instead of the "yellow- 
toned" pink of the latter. Many open at 
once on a long spike. Good substance, and 
all-around A1 ! 
habit. 
each 
3 
L. 
.40 
.95 
M. 
.25 
.70 
S. 
.15 
.40 
Bits. 
10 for .30 
; 100 
PAGE TEN 
