FOR EVERY SITUATION 
AND GROWING CONDITION 
GRASS SEEDS 
Does your lawn 
need a doctor? 
It's our business to know 
all about LAWNS — their 
troubles, their ailments, 
and how to cure them. 
Especially the lawns of 
this territory! Long ex¬ 
perience has taught us 
how to diagnose all the 
types of lawn trouble — 
and how to prescribe the 
remedy. 
So — 
Just bring your lawn trou¬ 
bles to us. Our experience 
is at your service. 
Pla in Facts about Lawn Care 
The way to success in lawn-building is often found in the 
answer to these four simple questions: FIRST—is the soil 
too heavy or too light? SECOND—does it have enough 
of the right kind of soil food and humus? THIRD—does 
it get and keep enough water? FOURTH—does it get 
enough seed, of the right kind? 
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It's not difficult to find the answer to these 
questions — or to remedy the troubles they 
reveal. A heavy soil, one which is pre¬ 
dominantly clay, can be lightened by the 
addition of sand and humus, which should 
be well spaded in. A light soil can be im¬ 
proved by adding a top dressing of a 
heavier soil, or by the addition of humus 
in the form of peat moss or grass cuttings. 
Food deficiencies are best taken care of 
by an application of one of the commercial 
plant foods. 
An early start pays 
Start working the soil as early in the spring 
as possible. Grass seed will not be dam¬ 
aged by any weather condition except 
standing water, and the earlier it gets 
started the more sturdy the seedlings will 
become before the weeds germinate. Plant 
food should be applied before seeding, 
and at the rate of about ten pounds to 
one thousand square feet of area. 
The seed may be sown by hand, or with a 
spreader. Distribution should be made in 
two directions, one at right angles to the 
other to decrease the possibility of leaving 
bare spaces. Do not skimp on seed, either 
in quality or distribution, for seed is the 
cheapest part of your lawn making opera¬ 
tion. A heavy seeding insures a dense turf 
during the early life of the lawn and acts 
to check the introduction and development 
of weeds. Apply about one pound of seed 
to each two hundred square feet of lawn. 
When seed has been applied, brush into 
the soil by dragging some light, flexible 
object, such as a sack, over the soil. After 
the seed is brushed in, and not before, 
roll it to bring the soil particles in close 
contact with the seed. 
Thirsty lawns can't thrive 
The life and beauty of a lawn depend 
upon how much water it gets and retains. 
As almost every lawn is different, the 
amount of water needed and the meas¬ 
ures taken to retain moisture will differ. 
For Instance, a lawn that tops a rise in 
ground and is unshaded, will need con¬ 
siderably more attention than one in a 
hollow, or surrounded by trees. 
For the lawn which dissipates its moisture, 
there is no better remedy than an applica¬ 
tion or applications of peat moss. Peat 
moss is noted for its ability to retain mois¬ 
ture and keep the soil particles loose and 
friable. It can be used in two ways; either 
spaded into the soil to loosen and lighten 
it, or spread on the surface as a soft 
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Of 
moisture-retentive. Apply peat moss to a 
depth of at least half an inch on the 
surface, depending upon conditions. A 
full inch may be spread in some cases, and 
where a very heavy clay soil must be 
loosened, even more is desirable. 
Get the moisture down deep! 
Eliminate the word "sprinkle" from your 
vocabulary so far as lawns are concerned. 
Say "water the lawn", and mean it, for 
moisture must penetrate deep into the 
soil if it is to be of benefit. A sprinkling 
which moistens only the top soil en¬ 
courages shallow roots, which will be ex¬ 
posed to dry and cracking soil with the 
first hot weather. Peat moss and thorough 
watering will prevent this. 
Defeat weeds with SEED! 
The best way to eliminate weeds is to con¬ 
centrate on growing the best possible 
grass. If the lawn is well fed, and watered 
throughout the season, the turf will be 
too dense to encourage weeds, and will 
smother them should they get started. 
