FREMONT, NEBRASKA 
3 
disinfectant is bichloride of mercury, often called corrosive sublimate. Dissolve 
one ounce in a little warm water, add this to about eight gallons of water. Re¬ 
member, corrosive sublimate is a deadly poison, and it attacks metal. Mix the 
above solution in a wooden tub, or an old jar. Stir with a wooden paddle. Place 
bulbs in a sack and hold under the solution with a board weighted with rocks. 
Soak for at least eight hours. I soak over night, and plant the next morning. If 
a large quantity of bulbs are being disinfected it is best to make a new solution 
after each batch has been soaked, or else add one half of the original strength. 
Formaldehyde is also a good disinfectant. Use one half pint of liquid to fif¬ 
teen gallons of water. This is also a poison, but does not attack metal. Soak 
bulbs for the usual eight hours. 
The Bichloride of Mercury or Formaldehyde treatment is also effective in 
killing any thrips, or thrips eggs, which may be found on the bulb at planting 
time. Due to proper methods of control, the thrips menace is disappearing. How¬ 
ever, it is easier to prevent this menace than to cure it. Thrips destroy the foliage 
and prevent blooming; then, they may harbor on the bulbs through winter stor¬ 
age. They multiply rapidly at temperatures above 50 degrees. If you wish to be 
safe I advise the following four-fold line of attack. 
First, use every precaution not to have any thrips on your bulbs at digging 
time. Leave all tops in the field, and burn as soon as possible. 
Second, assume that some did get on your bulbs, and that you have them in 
storage. Large growers will fumigate with gas. Small growers will use the safer 
Napthalene treatment. This is to be used duidng storage only, while the bulbs are 
dormant. Sprinkle one ounce of flakes per hundred large bulbs. Do not place on 
the bulbs until they are thoroughly cured, and be sure to shake out before the 
bulbs begin to sprout or get new root growth in the Spring. If you can keep the 
temperature above fifty degrees for at least several weeks of the treatment all 
thrip eggs will hatch, and you will get a hundred per cent kill. 
Third step. Assume once more that you still have thrips on your bulbs at 
planting time. Then use the corrosive sublimate or Formaldehyde treatment as 
previously explained. This will destroy thrips as well as their eggs. If you plant 
immediately, you may be absolutely certain that your bulbs went into the soil 
free of thrips, or any disease. 
The fourth step is a measure to combat the migratory thrips—the ones that 
might fly in over your neighbor’s fence. There are several sprays that are recom¬ 
mended, but I prefer Rototox. It may be secured from the Rototox Company, 813 
Yale St., East Williston, N. Y. It will not injure the foliage or the flowers, and it 
is highly recommended as being effective for controlling thrips. 
If you are one who loves to do things right, you will take all of the above 
four steps, and see that your neighbor takes them with you. They are not expen¬ 
sive. But it is expensive to buy bulbs, and get no blooms. If for some reason you 
cannot keep in step all through the journey just mentioned, at least take the third 
step, for it is the charm. It is the key to the whole problem. 
Digging and Storage yeuot" ThYs"istu:u7a\o^^i 
six weeks after blooming. Bulbs should not be left in the ground after the plant 
has died. Varieties that were planted for late blooms may have to be dug before 
the six weeks period for maturity of bulb has elapsed. When the early frosts kill 
the foliage they should be dug anyway. Never carry the foliage into your curing 
or storage room,—it may harbor thrips. Clip the tops close to the bulb, and burn 
when dry. Spread the bulbs three or four inches deep in screen-bottomed trays, 
or thinner if the tray is not ventilated. Cure for several weeks either in the open, 
or indoors, but have plenty of fresh air. Protect from intense sun or frost. After 
curing you may sprinkle on Napthalene flakes. 
Store for the winter in a cool, dry place. Examine occasionally—if bulbs 
are molding, give more ventilation. If condition is serious, expose to direct sun¬ 
light to kill the mold. 
At your leisure moments during the winter you may remove the old bulb and 
root growth. Before Spring, shake out the Napthalene flakes. 
Your bulbs should now be ready for Spring planting, at which time don’t 
forget the Bichloride of Mercury or Formaldehyde treatment. 
