TO OUR FRIENDS 
Here is a rather complete list of fruit trees, nut trees, grape vines, and 
berry plants. They are strictly good, being vuell-gronvn and high in quality. 
JTe know ho<w and will dig and pack them so as to reach you in perfect con¬ 
dition. There is nothing cheap about them except the price. Send us your 
order and let us convince you of our ability to serve you well. 
fVE GUARANTEE all of our stock to be healthy and true to name, and 
will replace any that may prove to'be otherwise. In no case, however, are we 
liable for any amount greater than that paid for the stock. 
ATTACHED TO EACH SHIPMENT is the official certificate of the 
State Entomologist, certifying that the stock is free of harmful insects and 
diseases. 
IFe begin shipping strawberry plants October 15 and continue until 
April JO. Start shipping fruit trees and small fruit plants November / and 
rontinue until April 30 . 
If trees or vines are wanted for commercial orchards ask for prices in 
1,000 or 10,000 lots, stating varieties and sizes wanted. 
STRAWBERRIES 
Certified. State inspected. New ground grown. Free of disease 
Roots moss wrapped. 
BLAKEMORE. (Yellows Free). Early. Heavy producer. Fine qual¬ 
ity and highly colored berries. Excellent shipper. Good home and 
market berry. Berries light red in color, firm and attractive. One of the 
very best varieties. 
MISSIONARY. Early, dark red in color. Good shipper. Will do 
well on most soils, but especially well on lighter and sandy soils. 
KLONDYKE. Early. One of the leading shipping berries. Also a 
favorite for home use. Berries light red in color and firm. 
AROMA. Late or mid-season. Berries light red in color, large, and 
quite attractive. Good for home use and market, being one of the lead¬ 
ing shippers. Does best on the heavier soils. 
DORSETT. Early. Beautiful bright red berries. Extra good qual¬ 
ity. Fine yielder. One of the greatest berries known, both for home 
use and market. 
DUNLAP. Medium size, dark red, good quality berry. Ripens 
medium early. 
GANDY. Large, high quality, very attractive berry. Deep red 
color. Ripens late, after other varieties are gone. 
T->-:--I - or-postage; 
6e©;-$1.25; 5,000,--’$«<?6; lO.OeOj-$17.50. 
prioea: 50, 60c; WO, 75c;-250, $1.5{&;-«00, $2.00r 1,000,-^$8.25. 
FAIRFAX. Large berry. Bright deep red. Fine quality. Ripens 
medium early. 
PREMIER (Howard 17). Berry large and bright red. Excellent 
flavor and quality. Ripens early. Heavy yielder. 
CATSKILL. Big, bright red berries. Excellent quality. Heavy 
yielder. Ripens midseason. 
Prices on above three varieties as follows: 
CJoWoet for-express or postage: 100,-76e; 300, $1.26; 500;-$1.60; 1,000, 
$2.00; 5,000, $12.00; 10,000, $22.50. 
Prepaid prices: 50, 65c; 100, 86c; 200, $1.60; 500, $2.25;-1,000, $3.75. 
GEM EVERBEARING. By far the best of the Everbearers. 
Quality of berry is good. High yielder. Ships well. 
DAYBREAK AND FAIRMORE. These two are new varieties, and 
were bred and developed by Dr. Darrow of U. S. Department of Agri¬ 
culture. Both very fine quality. 
Price on these three varieties as follows: 
Collect for express or postage: 300, $2.25; 500, $3.25; 1,000, $5.50; 
5,000, $25.00; 10,000, $45.00. 
Prices prepaid: 50, 75c; 100, .$1.00; 300, $2.75; 500, .$3.75; 1,000, .$7.00. 
HOW TO GROW STRAWBERRIES 
Strawberries may be set any month during the year, but the best time is 
fall, winter, or early spring. In the South most of them are usually set be¬ 
tween October and early April. However, there is much to be gained by 
setting during October, November and December. 
The strawberry will grow well on almost any type of soil, provided it is 
well drained and fertile. In preparation for setting the plants the ground 
should be broken deep and thoroughly pulverized by harrowing. Lay off rows 
3% feet wide with a rather deep furrow or trench. Put in the bottom of this 
furrow a good commercial fertilizer such as a 6-8-6, 4-8-4 or 4-8-6 at the rate 
of 500 to 1000 pounds per acre, or two to four pounds for each 100 feet of row 
space. Then bed back with two furrows. Get the fertilizer deep enough so 
that when the strawberry plants are set the roots will be at least two inches 
above the fertilizer. 
Set strawberry plants from 18 to 24 Inches apart in rows 3Vz feet wide. 
Blakemores should be set 30 inches apart. Plants set during late winter or 
early spring will produce a few berries that season, but to get the best plants 
for producing a heavy crop the following season pinch off the few blooms that 
appear the first season. When set 18 inches apart in rows 3% feet wide 7,800 
plants will set an acre, and 6,300 if 24 inches apart. When set 30 inches apart 
5,000 will set an acre. 
Cultivate throughout spring, summer and into fall. Do not disturb the 
runners as they develop. Allow them to run over the row and take root 
wherever they will. 
In late August or early September give an application of the same fer¬ 
tilizer recommended for use before setting. Scatter broadcast on top of the 
plants, covering the whole row and middle, and follow immediately with a 
broom or brush and sweep the fertilizer off the leaves. Apply when leaves 
are dry. Use 5(X) to 1,000 pounds per acre, or two to four pounds for each 
100 feet of row space. Give another application of the same kind and amount 
of fertilizer in fall, October to early December, because it is during fall that 
buds are forming to produce berries the following season. 
BOYSENBERRY—THORNLESS YOUNGBERRY 
WHITE BLACKBERRY—THORNLESS BLACKBERRY 
THORNLESS DEWBERRY 
ST. REGIS EVERBEARING RASPBERRY PLANTS 
THORNLESS YOUNGBERRY. A fine new youngberry, without 
thorns, a prolific bearer. Produces especially large and fine berries. 
The Youngberry is conceded to be an outstanding berry of the bramble 
type. 
BOYSENBERRY. One of the biggest and finest berries known. 
Has very few seed, fine flavor. A vigorous grower and a heavy bearer. 
ST. REGIS EVERBEARING RASPBERRY. Berries bright crim¬ 
son in color, large, and excellent quality. The only dependable ever- 
bearing raspberry. Fruits on last year’s canes in sprrng and summer 
and on the new canes during late summer and fall. 
THORNLESS BLACKBERRY. A fine berry. Produces well and 
free from thorns. Thornless Dewberry equally as good because of being 
thornless. 
Prices on these four berries as follows: 
Collect for express or postage: 50, $3.25; 100, $5.50; 500, $20.00; 1,000, 
.$35.00. 
Prepaid prices: 6 , $1.00; 10, $1.25; 25, $2,50; 50, $4.00; 100, $6.50. 
Thornless Boysenberry and Nectarberry Plants by mail, postpaid; 3, 
$1.00; 6 , $1.95; 10, $3.00; 25, $7.00; 100, $27.00. 
STANDARD YOUNGBERRY (THORNY), BLACKBERRY AND 
DEUDERRY PLANTS 
YOUNGBERRY (Thorny). A fine yielder of big, high quality 
berries. As good a producer of high quality fruit as the Thornless, the 
thorns being the only real difference. Fine two year plants. 
DEWBERRY—LUCRETIA variety. Best of all dewberries. Ex¬ 
cellent fruit in both appearance and quality. 
BLACKBERRY—ELDORADO and McDONALD varieties. Both 
good. 
Prices on Thorny Youngberry, Dewberry and Blackberry as fol¬ 
lows: 
Collect for express or postage: 10, 50c; 25, $1.00; 50, $1.75; 100, $2.50; 
500, $9.00; 1,000, $15.00. 
Prepaid prices: 6 , 50c; 10, 75c; 25, $1.25; 50, $2.00; 100, .$3.25; 500, 
$ 11 . 00 . 
HOW TO GROW BOYSENBERRIES AND YOUNGBERRIES 
The Boysenberry and Youngberry are outstanding in production and 
quality. The berries are superior to either the blackberry or dewberry and 
well cared for plants frequently produce three to six quarts of berries per 
plant the second year, and from 6 to 15 quarts the third year. Another strong 
point is the fact that they seem to be resistant to anthracnose and leaf spot 
diseases. The berries are large, excellent for canning, making jams, jellies, 
for making pies and fruit juices or eating as fresh fruit. 
These berries are vigorous growers and should be set eight feet apart in 
rows eight feet wide, and a wire trellis provided on which to grow the vines. 
Use two or three wires for the trellis. They may be grown on single posts or 
large stakes. The trellis method is much better, though. 
They will do well throughout the South, on almost any kind of soil that 
is reasonably fertile and well drained. Like dewberries and blackberries, they 
seem to reach their best development on a sandy soil with clay sub-soil, 
although growing and producing almost as well on all kinds of soil, .cultivate 
the plants sufficiently to keep down weeds and grass. 
As soon as all berries are harvested cut out and burn all the old canes, 
as they are through when they bear one crop. The canes grow one year and 
produce berries the next. Cutting them out and burning as soon as they have 
finished bearing makes cultivation easier, and lessens the chance of disease 
and insect damage. Leave the new canes, but thin out the weak and broken 
ones, leaving 6 to 10 of the strongest to grow, for the following year s crop. 
Tie them to the trellis wire or posts or stakes, as this makes cultivation easier. 
It is quite important that all the vines are securely tied up at blooming tim.: 
so as to keep the berries off the ground. ^ ^ 
Fertilize the new plants as soon as the old ones are cut out m order to 
produce a vigorous growth of the new plants. Use 300 to 500 pounds per acie 
of a 4-8-4 or 4-8-6 fertilizer per acre. Scatter along by the side of the plants 
and cultivate in. 
HOW TO GROW BLACKBERRIES AND DEWBERRIES 
Blackberries grow best on heavy type soils that are well drained. Bpvr- 
ever they will grow well on red clay loam, but it seems ^ that the medium 
heavy sandy loams or sandy clay loams are best. Dewberries prefer slightly 
lighter soil than blackberries, although they will grow well on any soils where 
blackberries succeed. 
In preparation for setting, select ground that was well cultivated the Pre¬ 
vious season so as to have as little trouble with weeds and grass as possible. 
Then in fall, or a few weeks before setting in winter, break the ground broad¬ 
cast good and deep, then lay off rows 5 to 8 feet apart and set the plants 4 to 
6 feet apart in the rows. Some set dewberries 5 feet apart in rows 5 feet 
wide, using the stake method of training. For blackberries the trellis method 
is best. Put one post for each two or three plants and put two to four w.res 
on these posts for the blackberries to climb on. 
As soon as the crop is harvested, cut out the old canes, allowing the n^ 
ones to remain and cultivate and fertilize throughout summer and fall. In the 
case of the dewberry, many when cutting the old canes, cut out the new also. 
When this is done, additional shoots come out right away, but it is probably 
best to leave the new growth that has already formed and cultivate and 
fertilize. 
PRUNING BLACKBERRIES AND DEWBERRIES 
Dewberries need pruning only once per year, and this one should be given 
just after harvest, and consists of cutting out old canes entirely and also any 
weak and diseased of the new canes. 
Blackberries should be pruned three times a year. First, in late spring 
pinch back the new shoots when they are 2 to 2% feet high. This promotes 
growth of stocky canes instead of long, straggling ones. Second, cut out canes 
entirely right after harvest that bore the recently harvested crop, and thin out 
the new shoots so they will be 8 to 10 inches apart. Third, during winter cut 
out any dead or weak canes, and of those remaining cut back to 15 to 20 
inches in length. 
