PROPER PLANTING 
Trees, shrubs, and flowers require immediate and careful 
attention for successful results in planting. They must not be 
exposed to the wind or sun before planting, and should be 
cultivated and watered after planting to assure quick establish¬ 
ment. 
HANDLING UPON ARRIVAL 
Receive your stock without delay and plant just as soon as 
possible. Plants received in freezing weather should not be 
opened until they have been put in a cool but frost-proof cellar 
and gradually thawed out. The stock will not be injured if 
gradually thawed out in this way. 
Stock which seems somewhat dry upon opening, should be 
buried in wet soil for a day or so. This will quickly liven the 
stems and make them ready for planting. Small bundles may be 
placed in tubs of water for the same results. 
If possible plant at once. If weather conditions do not permit 
immediate planting, place bundles or boxes in a cool but frost¬ 
proof cellar. Should planting be delayed more than one or two 
days, unpack stock and heel-in in a well-drained location. 
Spade and plow thoroughly and deeply, raking or harrowing 
the soil fine and leveling off to facilitate planting. Dig holes 
generously wide and deep to receive root system without crowd¬ 
ing or cramping roots. Loosen the soli in the bottom of the hole 
so that the roots may grow “in” readily. Poor soil may be bene¬ 
fited by spreading manure in sometimes in advance of planting. 
PRUNING BEFORE PLANTING 
Roses require thorough 
cultivation of the soil and 
are gross feeders, neces¬ 
sitating rich ground or 
heavy fertilizing for best 
results. Plant all graft- 
joints so that they are at 
least three inches below 
ground level to prevent 
the strong root system of 
the rose stock from send¬ 
ing up shoots which will 
smother the budded top 
variety. 
BULBS 
Spring blooming bulbs, such as tulips, narcissus, hyacinths, 
etc., should have good garden soil with natural drainage. Sand 
added to heavy ground will greatly benefit bulbs. 
Gannas, Dahlias, Gladioli and Lilies require good garden soil, 
a sandy loam being productive of best results. Place lily bulbs- 
slightly on their sides so that water may drain away and pre¬ 
vent rotting in wet seasons. 
Pruning stock at the time it is transplanted assures more 
rapid recovery, reducing top to be supported by the roots which 
themselves are burdened with the task of re-establishing tiny 
feeding rootlets. Use a sharp knife or shears. 
Trees. Remove about one-third of the top from average heavy 
tops, by clipping branch ends and removing small branches and 
interfering limbs. Cut off frayed or bruised roots just above the 
point affected. Leave one branch or stem to develop into a 
leader. 
Shrubs. Thin out the tops of many branched shrubs, removing 
old wood, and cut back average plants about one-third. Hy¬ 
drangeas should be cut back to the ground. Remove frayed or 
damaged roots as directed above for Trees. 
Fruit Trees. Trim roots as advised for Trees above. Peach, 
Cherry, Apple, Pear and Plum stocks in branched sizes, should 
be pruned so that three to five branches, well placed about the 
trees, should remain. Leave a leader for developing. One year 
grades, usually whips, should be topped to the desired heading 
out, usually from 24 to 30 inches. 
Raspberry, Blackberry, etc. Are usually supplied cut back. 
Tops should be removed to about 6 inches from ground when 
planted. 
Grapes. Cut back roots proportionately to development. Tops 
should be removed, leaving one stem with three to four buds. 
Roses. Cut roots as advised for trees and shrubs, removing 
bruised and broken parts. Cut tops back to three to four buds 
on each stem. 
Privet Hedge. Cut tops back to four to six Inches above the 
ground to insure dense base growth. Set slightly deeper than 
stocks stood in the nursery. 
PLANTING TREES AND SHRUBS 
Set trees one or two inches deeper than they stood in the 
nursery, as shown by the collar or bark at top of roots. Shrubs 
should be set at the same depth or slightly deeper than in the 
nursery. Spread roots out naturally and work in pulverized soil 
about the roots, tramping firmly with the feet. If soil is dry, 
water well before hole is filled with soil. Lastly, fill the hole 
level, but do not mound up, as this tends to shed water away 
from the roots and holds back growth. Don’t tramp down the 
top soil, but leave loose prevent baking and cracking. 
Evergreens should be set a trifle lower than they stood in the 
nursery. Dig the hole a foot larger than the ball of earth about 
the roots and fill in with good loamy soil, packing firmly by" 
tramping or settling by filling hole wth water. Loosen burlap at 
top of ball and roll back or cut off, but don’t remove entire bur¬ 
lap covering. 
Perennials are best planted with trowels, dibbles, or similar 
hand tools. Remove badly injured or dried up leaves. Trim long 
straggling roots back and cut out bruised or damaged parts. Plant 
so that roots spread out or extend down naturally. Don’t crowd 
into small holes. Plants with crowns should have the crowns 
slightly below or at the surface of the ground. 
Grapes should be planted along the same lines as shrubs. They 
require rich soil for best results and a few bones placed in the 
bottom of the hole will provide rich feeding later on. Trim roots 
slightly and cut back tops well. 
Plant Rhubarb 3 feet part with buds one inch below ground 
level; Asparagus one foot apart in furrows 6 inches deep. Ferti¬ 
lize Rhubarb with manure every year; also Asparagus when 
through cutting in June. 
Currants and Gooseberries should be set about 4 feet apart and 
cut back about one-half. Every year after fruit has been gather¬ 
ed trim off old wood and burn. Raspberries and Blackberries 
should be set 3 to 4 feet apart. After fruiting out out old canes 
and burn, leaving a few vigorous new stems for the following 
year’s crop. 
HEELING-IN STOCK TEMPORARILY 
Dig a trench sufficiently deep and wide to receive roots and 
at least a third of the top without crowding or breaking roots. 
Lean the stock bundles or trees at an angle to save extra dig¬ 
ging. Fine soil should be used so that the roots can be packed 
well to prevent air-pockets and drying out. Water when the 
ground is dry and heap the soil well about the stems of the 
stock. If trees or shrubs are to be heeled-in over winter, they 
should be well covered and all packing material removed tc 
prevent mice from nesting and damaging stock. 
AFTER CARE 
Frequent cultivation after planting will maintain a dust mulch 
on top of the soil to conserve moisture and continue growth. 
Hoeing rather shallow gives best results in this respect and 
keeps beds free from weeds and orderly in appearance. 
In dry spells, artificial watering is strongly advised. Don’t 
sprinkle. Water thoroughly. If a hose is used, remove the nozzle 
and let the water soak into the ground until saturated down to 
the roots. No further water is needed for several days if this 
is followed. Watering in the evening or in early morning Is best. 
Fertilizing in the fall acts as a winter mulch and enriches the 
soil for the next season’s showing. Manure should be applied on 
top of the soil. It may be spaded in when well-rotted, but should 
never be placed next to the roots of plants. 
Shrub beds and circles cut about trees look much better when 
trimmed up with a spade occasionally during the summer. Rag¬ 
ged edges about shrub areas and weedy beds destroy much of 
the beauty of plantings. 
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