February 1, 1913. 
THE GARDENERS’ MAGAZINE. 
WORK FOR THE WEEK. 
THE ORCHID HOUSES. 
ARTIFK’I.VF JIi:AT. -A common mistake 
in tlio erection of jfia.ss structures both for 
fruit and plant grcwingf purposes, lies in the 
iieglect to prv)vide suttiuicnt liot-water pipes 
and boiler power to inaintain the desire<l 
temperature without having to make the 
pil>es excessively hot during perils of un¬ 
favourable outside conditions. Who^re suffi¬ 
cient piping is provided the temperature is 
naturally more readily and evenly main¬ 
tained tlian is possible with an insufficiency 
of piping. Those who have tliese difficulties 
should endeavour to have every defect rec¬ 
tified. A great deal may be done to 
minimise excessive fire-heat by covering the 
r(M>f of the house with a few' archangel mats, 
waterproof covering, or even old blirids hung 
along the side lights and the lower portion 
of the roof. Where lath roller blinds are 
fitted to the roof, these may be let down on 
frosty or windy nights, and will make at 
least 7 to 10 degrees’ difTerence to the inside 
temperature of the house. There is one 
thing one must l>e careful about in the use 
of hith roller blinds, and that is not to leave 
them down wlieii there is a prospect of 
snow. Any great weight of snow is liable 
to bix'ak the blinds where they are jointed, 
and also twist.s them so much out of shape 
that they may 1m* renderi'<l useless for pro¬ 
tection from sun aftervvard.s. 
.VT.MOSPHKHK’ (’OMIITIONS.-During 
the pa.st fortnight we have l>een suffering 
from the effects of a snowv Wizard. which 
has been followed with bitterly cold east winds 
and very little light. With so mueli fre-heat 
necessary, more than ordinary care has l)een 
re(|^nired to kei*p the atmosphere in a con¬ 
dition to save the plants from any ill-eft’ects. 
Damping the floors, staging, and surfaces 
Ijelow tlie hot-water pipes lia« been done as 
soon as the temperature commenced to rise 
in the morning; discretion has then had to 
1)0 exercis^ respecting a second damping. 
Some portions of a house invariably become 
dry under ordinary conditions, and there 
need be no second thought over these spots, 
ns the humidity rising from them when 
dampi'd will have a tendency to equalise the 
moisture throughout the structures. 
VKNTILATIOX, or the admittance of 
fresh air to the houses is always desirable, but 
ventilation, may easily be overdone just now. 
Whenever the oubside conditions are favour¬ 
able. air may W admitted either by the top 
or lower ventilators, hut at no time during 
winter Khould the top and lower ventilators 
1)0 oih'iuhI simultaiu'ou.sly. It is always 
safest to use the lK)ttoin ventilators on the 
leewnrd side of the house, unless there is a 
good sy.stein of roof ventilation, for a very 
little aperture in the roof .suffices for all 
purp<Ksc.s of ventilation at this season.—II. ,1. 
(’hapman, Oakwooci Gardens. 
STOVE PLANTS. 
AM A RY LT.IS (HIPPEASTOUM).—Bulbs 
intended for flowering in March and 
April should forthwith he removed from 
their resting quarters and receive a top- 
dressiuff or repotting as is considered neces¬ 
sary. Those selected for top-dressing should 
receive a thorough soaking in tepid water, and 
be allow'ed to drain, afterwards removing, 
^ith the aid of a pointed) stick, as much of the 
surface soil as possible without damage to the 
roots, and adding new compost carefully 
made firm. Where repotting is necessary, 
thoroughly soak and carefully wash away ali 
the old soil from the roots, afterwards pot¬ 
ting firmly in Tvell-drained pots of the same 
necessary, a little larger. If tlie 
soil IS in good condition no water will be re¬ 
quired for some time, and must be given spar¬ 
ingly until the roots are quite active. lA 
suitable compost is made up of loam two 
parts and leaf-mould one part, with a “ttlc 
mortar rubble and dried cow manure added. 
GliOXlNIXS.—A second batch may now be 
started into growth. Select those corms 
showing signs of starting^ and after care¬ 
fully removing the old soil, place them in 
n ns containing sifted leaf-mould. In the 
mid atmosphere of the stove they will soon 
start sufficiently to be potted. Either 6() or 
r>l-8ized pots may be used with the view to 
shifting on later, or they may at once be 
put into their fiowering pots, when 32’s 
will be most suitable. In this case greater 
care will be required in watering or the soil 
will become sour. A suitable compost con¬ 
sists of two parts fibrous loam, one of peat, 
and one of leaf-mould, with a little sand 
and burnt earth. 
CAL.\jDIUMS.—^I’ he remainder of tliese 
should be potted up, and started as early as 
possible, otherwise losses may occur. A com¬ 
post similar to that used for gloxinias will 
l‘e suitable; use as small pots as possible, 
and plunge in a hotbed. AV.hen nicely grow¬ 
ing they may be transferred to larger pots. 
ALL.VMANDAS.—WTiere grown as trained 
sneiuinens in pots allaniandas, having com¬ 
pleted their season of rest, should have their 
growtiis cut back to one or two buds, and if 
dry receive a watering. The free application 
of the syringe will soon induce them to break 
freely, w'hen tliey may bo turned out of their 
pots, the ball lieing carefully reduced, and 
the plants repotted. Good drainage is essen¬ 
tial, and to ensure firm, .short-jointed growth^ 
there must be firm potting. Allainaiidas en¬ 
joy good fibrous loam to which has been 
added sufficient charcoal, mortar rubble, and 
sand to maintain porosity; a little bone-meal 
added! will also be found beneficial. 
PROPAGATION should be pushed on as 
far as possible. Cuttings of acalyphas, pan¬ 
da nus, Panax Victoria?, and Dracaena San- 
deriana will be found to root readily at this 
season.—H. Prime, Hatfield House Gardens. 
FRUITS UNDER CLASS. 
POT VINES.—One-year-old vines, cut 
down to the lowest bud last month, will 
have been kept dry in a cool house; they 
may now be placed in a gentle heat, and 
gradually moistened to excite growth before 
being shaken out and repotted. Prevention 
being better than cure, a dressing of styptic 
should be applied to prevent bleeding, and 
a second dressing in some cases is advisable. 
When the buds have grown out from one 
to two inches, the strongest andi most pro¬ 
mising plants should be selected and potted. 
Meantime llin. pots and compost should be 
got ready for use, especially the latter, as all 
composts in whicli bone-meal and other con¬ 
centrated stimulants form a part are greatly 
improved by laying two or three weeks in a 
warm potting-shed or early vinery. Sound 
turty loam, with lime rubble and a little 
bone-meal, must form the staple compost; a 
few handfuls of an approved vine manure may 
be added ^cording to the quality of the 
loam. A little warm water may be given 
to settle the soil after potting; otherwise, 
^hen plunged in a steady bottom-heat of 75 
degrees, the daily syringing will keen thp 
vines quite moist enough until fresh ^roots 
weakest shoot where 
^ started; and put a light stake to 
prevent accidents. Pure 
water will suffice for a time, and good 
feeding later with liquid stimulants. ^ 
PEACHES.—The earliest pot and perma. 
nent trees will be swelling their fruits and 
twice daily in fine weather, and once only 
when cold and cloudy. As no one waters 
peaches during the flowering stage, a liberal 
supply at a temperature of 68 to 70 degrees 
should be given to inside borders as soon 
as the fruits attain the size of peas. Disbud- 
ding must be regulated by the vigour of the 
trees, young shoots may be removed from 
strong-growing trees with a liberal hand, 
but not so as to produce a check. 
SUCCESSION HOUSES started now and 
the beginning of the year must be kept well 
supplied with atmospheric moisture, not so 
much by direct syringing as by damping the 
walls, paths, etc. A nice syringing once a 
day, or twice when bright, is beneficial, but 
keeping the trees constantly wet is detri- 
mental. As the trees approach the flower¬ 
ing stage greenfly must be destroyed by one 
or two moderate fumigations, for if neglected 
it will soon mar the trees and possibly ruin 
the crop. A temperature of 45 to 50 degrees 
at night and 60 to 65 degrees by day, with 
little fire heat, will ensure strong perfect 
blooms, but to further ensure a good set 
the brush should be passed over the flowers 
daily. Later houses will set their fruits 
freely eniugh by keeping the pipes warm 
and the house carefully ventilated. As we 
cannot compel the sun to shine, we should 
endeavour to produce the next best condi¬ 
tions in our forcing houses, maintaining a 
brisk buoyant temperature by using warmth 
in the pipes and by the admission of plenty 
of fresh air on all favourable occasions.—F. 
Jordan, Warter Priory Gardens. 
THE FLOWER CARDEN. 
CLIMBERS ON AVALLS AND PER¬ 
GOLAS, etc., which have not yet received at¬ 
tention with regard to thinning and tying, 
should be dealt with without further delay, 
as many of them are becoming quite active. 
Some of the large-flowering varieties of cle¬ 
matis have already made growths a few 
inches in length; these will require support- 
ing to prevent them being broken off by 
rough winds or rain, to which they are liable 
at this stage. Ornamental vines which have 
not been pruned will, in many instauces, 
bleed as this operation proceeds. Should 
this occur smear the cuts with shellac as a 
preventive. 
WORKS OF CONSTRUCTION OR Rp 
MODELLING in the rock garden should be 
completed at an early date, if full advantage 
is to be taken of the coming season in estab¬ 
lishing the various occupants, which are to 
be planted in any new positions. Prepara¬ 
tions must be made for replanting any exist¬ 
ing fissures or pockets which are becoming 
overgrown, or are in other ways unsatisfac¬ 
tory, by removing as much as possible of 
the old soil, and adding a compost most 
suited to the individual subjects. 
plants intended for planting out that 
have bad the protection of a cold) pit or 
frame, should now be exposed as much as 
possible on all occasions, excepting during 
extremes of wet or cold, to ensure hardiness- 
The first opportunity during a spell of mm 
weather should be taken to transfer these to 
their permanent quarters in the-rock gardeJi. 
Timely planting is essential to success, as, 
naturally, alpine plants are most sensitive to 
early growth. The remainder of the roc*c 
garden should also be dealt with. All estab¬ 
lished plants must be looked over, removing 
any dead portions and rubbish which has 
accumulated. Move the surface soil between 
the plants in all accessible places with a small 
hand fork and pointed stick. Where any 
mossy growth is detected, it must be oi^ 
placed and a top dressing of light sandy soil 
should afterwards ibe applied, wliich 
'benefits the plants, and also gives the who! 
a fresh and tidy appearance. 
hollyhocks.—I n districts where these 
cannot be successfully grown as perennials or 
biennials, owing to the prevalence of fh® 
disease which so often attacks them, it 
advitiable that they be treated as aniiuals> 
as the plants often then prove quite u?- 
mune, and some very good results are o 
tamed. Sow the seeds at once, thinly i 
pans, and place them in a brisk heat wher 
^ey will germinate—T. B. FieW. 
Wych Cross Place Gardens. 
