THE GARDENERS' MAGAZINE. 
Habch 1 , 1913 
WORK FOR THE WEEK* 
THE ORCHID HOUSES. 
ANGIt®CUMS.—The dwarf ang^securas 
will now be showing signs of activity, by 
producing their flower scapes or growths; 
these should now have every assistance, and 
should any plants require new compost, ex¬ 
cepting tho«e that are likely to flower within 
a short period, repotting may now be done. 
The drainage used should be clean and ample, 
and as most of the dwarf-growing kinds lend 
themselves to basket or shallow-pan culture, 
every care must be taken to see that no g^eat 
bulk of compost is used, and that the ma¬ 
terial is of a porous nature. In fact, the 
atmospheric conditions provided will deter¬ 
mine failure or success. Sphagnum moss, 
chopped moderately flne and intermixed with 
silver sand or flneiy-broken crocks, will pro¬ 
vide all that is necessary as a rooting me¬ 
dium, and if peat or osmunda fibre is used 
all the tine particles must be tirst abstracted; 
the fibre should be chopped finely and 
mixed in about equal proportions with 
the sphagnum moss. Hot, humid con¬ 
ditions are e^ential throughout the 
year. The larger growing kinds, A. 
eburneum and A. sesquipedale will also be 
now producing their flower scapes, and should 
have every encouragement. I’he first-named 
species does not usually require annual re¬ 
potting, so that where the compost has de¬ 
cayed on the surface, it should now be re¬ 
moved, and fresh material be given. The 
spring-flowering type of A. sesquipedale may 
be repotted as soon as it passes out of flower. 
RENANT.’'”-- 
'JANTHBRA IMSOHOOTIANA.—The 
introduction of this species in larger 
quantities and its more general cultivation 
are a sufficient proof of its utiUty. The 
lasting qualities of the flowers, combined 
with grace of spike and brilliancy of colour¬ 
ing, render this orchid one of the most ser- 
viceable for house and table decoration 
through the late spring and summer months 
and there is nothing more attractive for ex¬ 
hibition. The plants are in a more or less 
active state of growth during the greater part 
of the winter months, and during this period 
a warm, inoist atmosphere, such as that 
found suitable for phakenopsis, is required, 
and this must be maintained, with rather 
more light, until the plants come into flower 
During the summer and autumn after 
flow^ering, a cool, intermediate temperature, 
with less root moisture, will be found suit¬ 
able. Like most of this class of plant pot¬ 
ting should not be done more frequently 
^omove ai 
much of the old potting compost as may be 
thought desirable, and replace with ’new 
material, rather than disturb the roots Here 
again, the condition of the atmosphere will 
determine the measure of success, and the 
question of compost is only of a secondary 
importance. When repotting use plenty of 
clean drainage and a free, open compo^ of 
finely chopped polypodium or osmunda fibre, 
mixed with sphagnum mo.ss and sand, crocks’ 
will suit them nicely. When well rooted an 
occasional application of liquid manure, and 
also of soot water, wiU assist in the produc¬ 
tion of an abundance of flowers through the 
early summer months. An occasional fumiga¬ 
tion may be necessary to keep down aphides. 
GESNERAS FOR WINIER FLOWER¬ 
ING.—As the flowering season passes these 
may have all flower spikes removed, and for 
a few weeks they should occupy an open 
position in a warm house, in order to fully 
develop their corms before ripening them. 
To this end an occasional feeding will ma¬ 
terially assist them. Water may then be 
gradually withheld, and when thoroughly 
ripened they may stored under the stag¬ 
ing until required for starting at the end 
of June. G. exoniensis and G. refulgens are 
suitable varieties for “this purpose. 
MARANTAS.—These beautiful stove foli¬ 
age plants may be successfully grown if a 
strong, moist heat can be afforded. The pre¬ 
sent is a suitable time for repotting, and 
the soil they delight in consists of good 
fibrous peat, a little rich loam, and sand. 
Pots must be clean and well drained, for, 
although they enjoy liberal waterings when 
growing, moisture must not become stagnant 
in the soil. They may be increased by root 
division. 
IXORAS.—Plants intended for late sum¬ 
mer flowering should at once be started. 
When growth commences they may be re¬ 
potted, using peat and loam in fibrous con¬ 
dition, to which a proportion of about one- 
seventh of sand is added. While making 
their growth they require shade, a moist at¬ 
mosphere, and a good supply of water. As 
the growth is completed less shade w'ill be 
necessary, and they may be kept a little 
drier until the flowers are formed. Like 
many other stove plants they are very liable 
to attacks of thrip, red spider, scale, and 
ihealy bug, and great care must be taken to 
keep them clean. Fumigation must not be 
practised after the flowers have formed, for 
this causes them to fall. 
PROPAGATION should be continued. Cut¬ 
tings of Centropogon Lucyanus, Strobilan- 
thus, Goodyeras, Plumbago rosea, and Coleus 
tbyrsoideus are among those which may be 
inserted when obtainable. 
SHADING.—As the sun becomes more 
powerful it will be necessary to attend to 
shading, and blinds should be fixed without 
delay.—H. Prime, Hatfield House Gardens. 
and again after the fruits have set and 
all times keep a sharp look out for ereen ani 
black fly. Ventilate freely on all f!v?urabk 
occasions, but avoid draughts. 
MELONS.—Be careful in the watering of 
these fruits at this early season, and main 
tain a steady temperature of 65 to 7o 
grees at night, admitting a little air dailv 
Regulate the growths as this becomes neo^i 
sary, and stop the leading shoots when tber 
reach the top of the trellis. Fertilise the 
flowers as they appear, and endeavour to 
set as many fruits as possible at one time 
so they may grow away evenly. Sow seeds 
for succession, as recommended. 
CUCUMBERS.—Early young plants should 
now be growing away freely; pinch the 
leading shoots when they have reached the 
top, and stop lateral shoots at the first joint 
as they continue to grow. More moiiuie 
may now bo given, and light rich top-dieae. 
ihgs placed over the roots whenever they ap 
pear on the surface is preferable to placing 
a large quantity of compost around them aU 
at once. A hotbed may now be made ready 
out of doors, and any strong-growing ap. 
proved varieties planted on them when leadv. 
Throw the materials, which should conk’* 
of equal/ parts of litter and leaves, into . 
loose conical heap, and turn two or three 
times before making up the beds. In the 
meantime, have the soil made ready and the 
frames well cleaned and painted if necessary. 
—F. Jordan, Warter 'Priory Gardens, 
FRUITS UNDER GLASS. 
POT VINES, started in November, will 
now require plenty of weak liquid manure 
and other stimulants, especially during the 
" ^ ’ ‘ feeding should be dis- 
begin to 
STOVE PLANTS. 
STREPTOCARPUSES. — Young plants 
raised from seeds sown in January should 
now be ready for pricking off. A compost 
similar to that recommended for gloxinias 
is suitable. The seedlings, which require 
careful handling, may be pricked out into 
pans about three inches apart. The stove 
shelf is a suitable place for them, and care¬ 
ful watering and shading from bright sun¬ 
shine is necessary. Older plants which have 
been kept in cooler quarters may be turned 
out of their pots, the roots carefully re¬ 
duced, and then repotted, using larger pots. 
A warm pit with a genial atmosphere 
second swelling, but 
cohtinued when the grapes begin to colour. 
Do not pinch th© laterals more than can be 
helped; rather encourage leaf development, 
as this will improve the size and colour of 
the fruit. If r©d spider makes its appear¬ 
ance, sponge the' leaves, as the slightest in- 
^ the foliage at this early season will 
check the proper swelling of the grapes. 
LATC HOUSES.—In order to give the 
late vines time to finish their fruit and ma¬ 
ture their wood by the end of September, all 
the late houses should be closed now. Syringe 
the vines as previously recommended, and 
merely give as much fire-heat as will prevent 
any stagnation of the atmosphere. 
PLUMS AND CHERRIES.—Where the 
fruits have set, either on pot or permanent 
trees, an advance of 5 degrees may be given 
in the temperature, with free use of the 
syringe. Later trees in flower must be kept 
steady with a night temperature of 45 to 
it is fatal to over-excite them 
they have set their fruits. Fumigate 
the house Hghtly just before the flowers open 
THE FLOWER CARDEN. 
HBBBACEOUS BORDERS must now be 
given attention, and the surface soil betweei 
the plants should be moved. Choose dry dayi 
to carry out such work, and any plantings 
not yet finished must be completed witi 
out delay. Keep a sharp look-out for 
slugs, as they are very partial to the 
young growths of delphiniums and phloxeii 
at this time of the year. The surface eoil 
of flower beds should also be stirred to gif* 
them a fresh appearance and benefit the < 
cupants. 
AiNCHUSA ITALICA.—The varieties Drop, 
more. Opal, and P^ride of Dover, are hani 
^me subjects for Herbaceous borders, and il 
is a good plan to raise a batch of planll 
each season to flower the following yeari 
When raised from seeds, however careful one 
may be in saving them from the best 
types only, the result will be very variable;^ 
80 , to procure plants to be relied upon, othe" 
methods of propagation must be resort^ t< 
Plants which flowered last season will, i 
many instances, show no signs of makinj 
young growths, but if the roots are quit 
sound cut them into pieces two inches ii 
length, and insert them in an upright po^i 
tion in pans containing sandy soil; place i* 
a house having a moist, warm atmospbew^ 
and they will soon commence to produol 
young growths from the top of the cuttings; 
these growths must be thinned, when larrt 
enough, leaving two or three of the stronger. 
Put them in large 60-size pots and grow th^ 
in a cold frame until sufficiently established; 
for 
MMER BEHDING PLA> 
th© quick growing kinds will soon need P^, 
pagating, and among these are heliotropej" 
double loibelia, iresine. Coleus Verschaneln 
Salvia splendens, and S. Fireball, verbena* 
etc. It is very essential, when raising 
plants, to keep them growing without a check 
until trausferr^ to the open ground. 
this can only be accomplished by using s 
little judgment, for to have plants too feJ 
ward is equally as unsatisfactory as bavii^ 
them too late. Heliotropes and 
esp^ally susceptible to starvation, as ta^J 
rapidly become root-bound. .^rn 
CALCEOLARIAS, PENTSTEMONS, AMJ 
VIOLAS occupying cold frames, are 
freely, and the first-named will need ni^ 
space to allow them to develop. 
and violas can be safely transferred f®. j 
flowering quarters should these be ^vailawj 
and the room now taken up by theni 
prov© valuable for other subjects requiri^ 
the protection of a cold frame.—T. B. 1 » 
Wych Cross Place Gardens. 
