176 
THE GARDENERS’ MAGAZINE. 
Mabch 8, 1913. 
❖❖❖❖❖❖•I**J**J*‘^***‘ 
WORK FOR THE WEEK. 
❖vv 
THE ORCHID HOUSES. 
THUNIAS.—T. Benfionise, T. ManihaUiana, 
and the hybrid S. Veitchiana belong to the 
section of deciduous orchids, which require a 
complete rest during the autumn and win¬ 
ter season. They should now be producing 
their young growths, from the base of the 
old pseudo-bulbs, and will require fyesh mate¬ 
rial. The old plants should be turned out of 
the pots, the whole of the decayed soil shaken 
from the roots, and at the same time all dead 
and decaying matter should be cut away 
with a sharp knife. Thunias are iisualiy 
placed several together in the same pot, the 
pseudo-bulbs being placed two or three inches 
apart, taking care that the young growths 
are kept about an inch below the rim of the 
pot, so that the potting material may be 
made moderately firm al^ut the base. It is 
advisable that each of the old bulbs should 
have a stick sufficiently strong to secure it 
until the plants become re-established. The 
compost should consist of peat, fibrous yellow 
l<^m, and sphagnum moss, and a liberal addi¬ 
tion of finely-broken crocks or coarse sand 
to render the soil porous. llie pots used 
should be thoroughly clean, eight to nine 
inches in diameter, and filled to about one- 
third of their depth with clean broken crocks, 
which should be covered with a thin laver of 
partly^ecayed oak leaves. After potting 
^ace in a light position in a stove or East 
Indian hoiLse, and as near the roof glass as 
possible, for unless they have ample light 
from the commencement of growth, they 
rarely produce satisfactory results. Tliunias 
should be carefully watered at first, and very 
little moisture will be necessary until the new 
roots become established. 
PROPAGATION. - To increase the stock 
thunias mav be readily propagated by taking 
off the back pseudo-bulbs and makmg them 
into cuttings about six inches long, which 
can be inserted as ordinary cuttings, or laid 
out on sphagnum moss, in a propagatinp^ 
^se, or at the warm, moist end of a stove. 
They will require constant moisture and a 
strong heat, and as soon as roots are ob- 
serv^, at the base of the new shoots, they 
should be potted in a mixture of chopped 
sphagnum peat and sand, every encourao*e- 
ment ^being then given to produce f?ee 
growth. 
THE PRINCIPAL INSECT PESTS are 
scale, red-spider, and thrip, but, if the houses 
are sprayed with some safe insecticide at 
regular intervals throughout the growing 
season, these insects may be readily kept in 
check. Red-spider sometimes attacks the 
under sides of the leaves where the atmo¬ 
sphere is at all dry. The discreet use of the 
syringe in favourable weather will consider¬ 
ably help in keeping this pest in check. The 
plants are exceedingly useful for exhibition 
during the summer season, and are most 
effective Vhere u.sed for house decoration. 
The flowers will lajjt in a room considerablv 
longer even than when removed to a cool 
greenhouse.— H. J. Chapman, Oakwood Gar¬ 
dens. 
ing them shaded until germination takes 
place. Prick the seedlings out into other 
pans when large enough to handle, and when 
fairly established shift them into small 60- 
sized pots, and) keep them growing in a posi¬ 
tion near the glass in an intermediate tem¬ 
perature. Their final shift should be into 
6in. pots. 
PRIMULA MALACOIDES.—This is also 
a very desirable plant for the greenhouse, 
and deserves more extended cultivation. The 
method of cultivation is very similar to that 
of P. obconica. One important point to re¬ 
member in regard to its culture is that its 
spikes are very liable to damp off just when 
they are rising, if water is not carefully 
applied. 
PRIMULA SINENSIS. A batch of 
Chinese primulas may be raised now, and* 
given similar treatment to the above. With 
liberal treatment, these will flower during 
the greater part of late autumn and winter. 
LOBELIA TENUIOR.—The colour of this 
lobelia and its easy culture makes it a very 
useful plant for the greenhouse during the 
summer months. Sow the seeds now in pans 
in a light compost. When the young plants 
are large enough, prick them out into large 
60*6, in which size they will flower. 
SOUVENIR DE LA MALMAISON CAR¬ 
NATIONS.—Unless it is desirable to hasten 
these into flower they must be kept as cool as 
possible. The flower spikes in many cases are 
rising, and must be Securely supported by 
neat stakes. The plants must now be more 
liberally supplied with water; stimulants 
may also he given more fr^uently. and with 
increased strength. Fumigate with a nico¬ 
tine confound to keep the plants free from 
aphis.—E. Harriss, Lockiuge Gardens. 
HARDY FRUITS. ^ 
NtfTS.—The pruning of these lhay now 
be pushed forward. In Kent, and other parts 
where nuts are grown extensively for market, 
pruning is usually commenced early in the 
year, and extends over a period of fully three 
months; but where there are only a few 
bushes I like to leave them until the tiny 
pink-coloured female blbssonas show. Leave 
ample catkins to assist fertilisation; cut 
back all coarse wood and remove ail suckers 
of fish netting in front of the trees, restin. 
this on poles to prevent injury to the flowen 
and for convenience. This, with a few small 
pieces (at intervals) of Portugal laurel 
behind the branches, will save the bloom* 
during sharp frosts. 
VINES.—If these have not yet been pruned 
they should be taken in band at once or 
the wound will not dry sufficiently to pre- 
vent bleeding. Prune the laterals back to a 
couple of eyes, and secure the leaders. To 
be reasonably successful with outside vines 
the. position should be good, the border 
rather elevated, and the roots somewhat con¬ 
fined. The fruiting wood should be as close 
to the wall as possible, and disbudding and 
stopping of the laterals will need as much 
care and attention as in the case of 
grown under glass. 
ANY SPRAYING to be done must not be 
delayed. Dusting all bush fruits, pears and 
apples, before the flowers get too advanced, 
with soot and lime, will prove very helpful 
in cleansing the bark and freeing the 
crevices of insect pests. — H. Mabkhax, 
Wrotham Park Gardens. 
and endeavour as far as possible to keep the 
whole of the bush open and clothed with smoll 
twiggy, fruitful growths. Commencing with 
young trees, see that they have a clear stem 
of 12 to 18 inches above the ground level, 
and train the heads vase-shaped; when 
shortening back t\ie leaders, always cut to 
an eye pointing in an outward direction. 
Start with three to five shoots, and as these 
extend allow others at intervals till a good 
vase-shaped head 7 feet high is formed, when 
very little further attention will be required 
CONSERVATORY AND GREEN¬ 
HOUSE. 
PRIMULA OBCONICA.—Tlie great im¬ 
provement which has been effected in this 
species renders it one of the most useful 
greenhouse-flowering plants we have. The 
colour of the flowers covers a much wider 
range than was the case a few years ago, and 
the size of the individual flowers, as well as 
the flower trusses, has been improved. Seeds 
may now be sown for raising a batch of 
plants to flower in the autumn. Sow the 
<?eed8 in shallow pans in a compost of loam, 
leaf-soil, and sand. The .soil must be finelv 
sifted, and the seeds be only lightly covered. 
Cover the pans with a sh^t of glass, and 
place them on a shelf in a warm house, keep¬ 
well-decayed manure pricked into the soil 
over and about the roots, but, if the bushes 
grow too gross to be fruitful, do not add 
manure. Keep the land free from weeds, and 
dust plenty of lime beneath the bushes after 
the pruning is completed, at the same time 
slightly loosening the surface with a fork to 
prevent the land from cracking in dry 
weather. 
PROTECTING FRUIT BLOSSOMS.—At¬ 
tend to this before the buds are injured by 
cutting winds and sharp frosts. The buds 
are this year more forward than we like to 
see them, owing to the past mild weather, so 
that protection may have to be employed 
earlier than usual. In some parts of the 
country, and in mild seasons, protection may 
not be necessary, but it is well to be on the 
safe side. In the absence of blinds, glass 
copings, etc., hang two or three thicknesses 
THE KITCHEN CARDEN. 
ASPARAGUS.—When making a new plan- 
t'ation it is a great advantage to prepare the 
site early in the previous autumn, and sub¬ 
sequently fork over the ground once or twice 
at least during the winter .months to 
.sweeten the land; heavy soils in particular 
will be materially improved by exposing the 
top spit as much as possible to the action of 
the weather. j-^It is .most essential the land 
should work freely ere the time for planting ( 
comes round. Should the preparatory opera- 
tions of trenching, etc., have been unavoid¬ 
ably postponed, the work should be pushed ] 
through without delay. Asparagus should j 
be planted in a situation well open to the 
sun; the land must be well drained, heavily 
manured and trenched, the rougher portion 
of the manure being placed in the bottom of 
the trench. Soil of a very stiff nature 
should be made suitable by adding road- ! 
scrapings, rubbish heap material, wom ashes, 
and sand to the staple, and be left exposrf 
to the wehfther till the beginning of April, ' 
and), after being scuffled over, should he made j 
level in readiness for planting. Two-year- \ 
old seedlings of either the Giant, Connover s ; 
Colossal, or Argenteuil should be procured, 
and placed a distance of 2ft. apart, the rootji 
spread out horizontally and regularly, and , 
then covered with the finer portions of soil ia ; 
.such a manner that the crowns will lay 
three inches under the surface. Asj^rag^ 
roots should be exposed as little as possible 
to the air, and should be transferred from : 
one situation to another without unnecessary j 
delay. If raised beds are desired, 
should not be less than 4ft. wide, with alleys. 
2ft. wide running between. In preparing 
such beds—providing the whole quarter has 
been trenched over—the required 
should be marked out, and the soil from tM^ 
alleys placed on either side to form the 
beds, which should be about six inches 
the alleys when fin'shed. The roots may ^ 
be planted as previously advised. 
beginning of April is a suitable 
plant, selecting, if possible, a dull, 
for the operation. No heads must be cut tne ; 
first year after planting. , • i, 
LETTUCE. — Autumn-sown plants wh’-cn 
have beeoi hardened off may be planted m 
warm and sheltered position. To keep ap 
succession, it may be necessary to , 
portion of the most forward plants in 
frame; plant in light rich soil, 
on fine days, and close the frames 
If the nights be cold some protecting ma 
rial should be plac^ over the lights. 
SEEDS.—Sow either in boxes or on ^ h 
hotbed in a. frame or pit. Tender snd _ 
and Imperial cabbages; Golden 
approved mam crop variety qf 
Brussels sprouts for early gathering, P ^ 
ably of the Dwarf Gem class; Mag® ^ 
Bonum, Snowdon’, and Early ^amm^h . j 
flower, and celery for early lifting. 
sawing of celery seed should be 
the end of the pr^ent month.—M 
geb, Woolverstone Park Gardens. 
