193 
Much 15, 1913. 
THE GARDENERS’ MAGAZINE. 
melon culture. 
The cultivation of melons is an impor- 
matter in most privato gaidem, tor 
diirmc tiw? summer •ana autumn months no 
IS complete without them. rro- 
vided plenty or heat is at command their 
cuiumion presente lew difficulties, and 
Ujey can be nad in pertection from early in 
>lav until late October. 
tor early supphes a lean-to house facing 
due south IS to.be preferred, but for generic 
crops a spaiirroot house is preferaole. A 
tiif amount of ibottom heat is very desir¬ 
able Ici melon growing, and this is best pro- 
fxied by hot-water pipes beneath the bed 
itt wbiott the plants are growing. ± ailing 
this a Jiotbed of fermenting material must 
be provided, but where hol^water pipes are 
used it is well to make up a good ibed ot 
oak leaves above these, using a perforated 
iron trellis to keep tne leaves from the 
P‘P^- . . _ 
io gfow melons well, it is by no means 
ebsential to provide a large amount of root 
room. If the border is idin. wide and Sin. 
deep, it will be sufficient. This should he 
oon^wsed of good turfy loam of a medium 
texture, the turves cut 4in. thick. Do not 
chop them to pieces, .but make up the bor¬ 
der i^ith them intact. Small mounds 
ihouid be placed on the ibed at suitable 
mtervals, in which to plant the melons. 
Loam ibrokeu up and mixed with a little 
old mortar rubble or wood ashes is all that 
a necessary. 1 do not advocate the use oi 
numure, as this tends to create rank 
growth, which 1 believe encourages gum¬ 
ming and canker. The aim should be to 
build up a sturdy, vigorous plant, capable 
<rf perfecting a lull crop of fruit. 
Pli^ two seeds in a 3in. pot, plunge the 
poU in a warm propagating case, and, when 
the seedlings appear, transfer them to a 
pbsition near the glass. The stronger one 
*^t be retained and the weak plant out 
w near the soil. Guard against cold 
draughts, and at no -time allow the tem¬ 
perature to fall .below 65 degrees ; indeed, a 
rather warmer atmosphere is to he pre¬ 
ferred. Place the young -plants in 48-sized 
P^when nicely crooW, and encourage 
to make sturdy growth. Regular 
syni^ings with tepid water during bright 
*’eather are beneficial. Should green-fly 
H^r dip the young plants in a weak 
solution ot quassia extract. 
l^n nicely rooted plant out the melons 
rounds of soil already prepared ; the 
fm ^ not he more than two feet 
the roof glass. Stake and tie the 
SKi?. 1 water -them in with tepid water, 
^^dd the bottom^eat ever become ex- 
ve after the melons are planted, it may 
^ slightly raise the mounds 
the ^ o** so press 
«oil down ^ain firmly. It is 'best to 
thp m ^ Dfi^lons on single stems, so let 
mam ^owth reach the top of the treUis 
«^ell arl When the plants are 
'be done if 
•^’8 to 90 degrees with the 
1 bouse must 'be kept 
Midday, when 
^96 thft ? is the best time to ferti- 
fenn endeavour to per- 
*«inale when there are three 
P>«n>t for^*^ together on ea-ch 
‘•ttw tW are fertilised at different 
•yringine dur’^ Discontinue 
^nd admit a 
^ light, buoyant at- 
laterals at the first 
*^*^Uous carefully remove 
^ early stage, but 
cause nf ^ <>f shoots is sometimes 
^t has set syringing may be 
recommenced to keep red spider in check 
besides encouraging growth. Feed the 
plants regularly with Liquid manure. Some 
roots will probaibly have .appeared on the 
surface of the ibed by this time, and a light 
top^ressing of loam with some approved 
fertiliser added will be a great assistance. 
If canker appears on any of the plants 
treat the affected parts with quicklime. 
Strong healthy plants grown as described 
are rarely, if ever, attacked by this disease. 
It is not necessary to shade melons at any 
period of their growth, unless it is neces¬ 
sary to retard their development. As a 
rule, three fruits on a -plant are sufficient 
when good sx>ecimens are desired, and while 
KOHL RABL 
This useful vegetable is now finding more 
favour in private gardens than formerly, 
and one reason is that it has been brought 
into a more useful condition by drastic se¬ 
lection. It is now a valuable addition to 
kitchen garden crops, and is particularly 
useful if there should be a sliortage at amy 
time with turnips. When about the size of a 
tennis ball, and quickly grown, kohl rabi 
makes a tender and distinct dish. Sutton’s 
Earliest Green is an excellent variety to 
grow for summer and early winter use, with 
Sutton’s Purple for autumn and winter, as 
this appears hardier than the green variety. 
Sutton's Earliest Green, a useful and distinct summer vegetable. 
the fruits are ripening a rather dry, airy 
atmosphere is essential to develop the best 
flavour. Good varieties are numerous, but 
for general use The Peer, Superlative, and 
The Countess can be recommended. 
Batsford Gardens. J. Gardner. 
Variegated-leaved Oleander, 
—As a substitute for a croton, this oleander, 
which will thrive under much coaler condi¬ 
tions than crotons in general, can be well 
recommended. The long, narrow, deep green 
leaves are freely variegated with gold, and 
dwarf plants on single stems are well 
adapted ior table decoration. It is an old 
variety, but I have of late met with it in 
better wndition than ever before.—T. 
For ordinary use sow the seeds during 
March for summer crops, and in August for 
winter crops. Sow in “drills or broadcast, 
as winter greens are suwn, and when large 
enough to transplant, transfer the seed¬ 
lings to ground that has been well prepared ^ 
as quick growth is essential. Allow a dis¬ 
tance of eighteen inches between the rows, 
and a foot from plant to plant. Hoe fre¬ 
quently. To economise space lines can ba 
planted in the alleys that are usually 
formed between various seed beds. The 
winter batch, when of a suitable size for 
the table, should be carefully lifted and 
handled, and -stored in a cool place. 
George Ellwood. 
Swanmore Gardens. 
