194 
THE GARDENERS’ MAGAZINE. 
Mabch 15, 1913. 
❖ 
f. WORK FOR THE WEEK. 
*♦* *♦* * 5 * * 5 * ^ 
THE ORCHID HOUSES. 
DECIDUOUS CALANTHES. — The 
stronger-growing calanthes, such as C. ves- 
tita, C. Bryan, C. VV. Murray, C. Veitchi, C. 
Harrisi, and the more recently-introduced C. 
Angela, are now producing their new 
growths, and as soon as the roots make 
their appearance the plants should be re¬ 
potted. It is advisable not to allow the new 
roots to become too far advanced, as they 
are easily damaged in the process of repot¬ 
ting. Where calanthes have been turned out 
of their pots and stored in boxes, as sug¬ 
gested in a previous note, the new roots g^ 
away into the sphagnum, and may be easily 
lifted and carefully repotted with the sphag¬ 
num attached to the roots. If the plants 
remained in the pots in which they were 
grown last season, they must be turned out, 
all the old potting compost must be care- 
ed and 
the old roots cut back. 
fully remove 
only sufficient being retained to secure the 
plant in position in the new compost. Be¬ 
fore repotting carefully examine the pseudo¬ 
bulbs tor scale or other insect pests, which 
may have secreted themselves about the base. 
THE COMPOST used may be varied ac¬ 
cording to the conditions under which the 
plants are ^own. I cannot lay down any 
hard and last rule, because, having had 
charge of plants in various parts of the coun¬ 
try, and under different conditions, I have 
found that we have to determine for our¬ 
selves the most suitable compost. There is 
also the constitution of the plants to be 
considered. Tliere are numerous varieties 
and hybrids, and some of the finest we have 
are very difScult subjects to manage. In 
the case of C. Oakwood Ruby, the late Mr. 
James Douglas told me Mr. Cookson had on 
several occasions given him plants, but he 
was unable to keep them for more than a 
par or two. I could mention many who 
have had similar experiences with this 
variety, and there are other varieties equally 
difficult to manage. With the weakened 
aimcuit to manage. With the weakened 
fcofnatitution, probably brought about by 
constant inbre^ing, the provision of suit¬ 
able potting material and conditions can only 
arrived at by experience. We find a 
light compost the only suitable one, with 
ample crocks, charcoal, and sand, to render 
the whole porous. For the stronger-grow¬ 
ing kinds ® 
ing Kinos we hn<l a compost of equaU por¬ 
tions of fibrous loam, peat, and chon^ 
sphagnum moss suitable. This should^ 
pressed moderately firm. In selecting nots 
of a suitable size one should always give 
efficient.root space unless a second pottincr 
is given about the end of June. Watering 
should be very carefully done until the new 
roots become well established in the potting 
impost. Then more liberal treatment may 
be given. To increase the stock any back 
pseudo-bulbs that have been removed from 
the plants should be laid in boxes on a bed 
of chopped sphagnum and silver sand, care- 
fully labelled. These generally produce 
good strong breaks, and may be potted as 
soon as new roots appear.—H. J. C^pman 
O akwood Gardens. ’ 
STOVE PLANTS. 
ACALYPHA HISPIDA—Grown either as 
a summer or winter decorative subject, this 
delightful plant, with its beautiful crimson 
tassels, always repays good cultivation As 
standards for summer use single-stemmed 
plants of last year’s stock may be reduced to 
the required height, kept somewhat dry at 
the roots, and in a growing atmosphere until 
they break, when they may be repotted. 
Allow four or five growths to grow away uni 
stopped, and as they produce their plumes^ 
keep them in a temperature of 60 to 66 del 
grees by night and a little higher in the 
day, where damping between them may be 
lre<iuently practised. Avoid damping over¬ 
head or the tassels will “ damp off.’' For 
autumn and winter use cuttings of the young 
growths may be taken when available; they 
will quickly root in a close propagating pit, 
and should eventually be potted into 8in. 
pots. At a height of fifteen inches we pinch 
out the points of growth and allow the best 
three of the resulting growths to remain. 
A compost they do well in consists of four 
parts fibrous loam, two of leaf-mould, two 
of peat, one of sand, and a little well-rotted 
manure. 
ANTHURIUMS.—^These plants wUl now 
require jattention, and should be repotted or 
to^re^d as may be necessary. The mate¬ 
rial we have recently used successfully con¬ 
sists o| equal parts of fibrous loam, osmunda 
fibre, and chopped fresh sphagnum moss, 
with a little sand. Tall-growing kinds, such 
as A. Waroqueanum, A. Veitchi, and A. 
Andreanum, are best grown in pots, which 
must be well drained; the material should 
be worked carefully between the roots within 
the pot, and made firm, and from the rim of 
the pot to the lower leaves it should be 
worked in pyramidal form, and bound tightly 
with twine, which will last until the roots 
have taken a firm hold of the compost. A. 
Scherzerianum and its forms are better grown 
in pans, and when finished the crown should 
be slightly above the pot rim. Moist con¬ 
ditions, the frequent use of the syringe, and 
a temperature of 70 to 75 degrees, rising as 
the weather gets warmer, will suit admirably 
EUPHORBIA JAGQUINIiEFLORA. — 
Good cuttings may be inserted from now 
onwards until th« required number are 
rooted. Water the stock plants only when 
very dry, and keep them in full sunshine, 
but use the syringe to induce them to break 
freely. Cuttings should be taken when four 
inches in length ; cut them closely to the 
old stem, and insert, as they are taken 
from the plant, in saucers of silver sand 
which has been previously watered. Place in 
a propagating frame within a house or pit, 
oyer bottom-heat of 70 to 75 degrees. Pro¬ 
vide a close, moist atmosphere and shade in 
the day to prevent flagging; give a little 
ventilation on mild nights to prevent damp¬ 
ing. and they will soon root. Pot singly in 
small pots, using soil as for acalyphas, "and 
for a few days return them to the close 
frame. Afterwards they may be grown in a 
night temperature of 60 to 65 degrees, rising 
70 degrees by day, shading at 75 degrees. 
Use the water-pot very carefully.— 
Prime, Hatfield Gardens. 
THE FLOWER CARDEN. 
ANNUALS.—Another sowing of annuals 
must now be made, consisting of varieties of 
^ters. Phlox Drummondi, ten-week stocks, 
Diantbus Heddewigi, cosmos, zinnias, etc.; 
these can be treated in a similar manner to 
that advised in my notes a month ago for 
other kinds requiring a longer season of 
growth, many of which will now be far 
enough advanced for pricking off, and should 
early as possible. 
tuberous begonias. — Preparations 
for starting the corms of these useful bed- 
tog subjects must now be considered; place 
them thinly in boxes containing leaf-mould, 
m such a manner that the top of the corm 
IS only very slightly covered; afterwards re¬ 
move them to a warm house or pit, damping 
occ^qnally to keep them moist. Under tW 
conditions they will soon commence to grow 
and will then require potting, or preferably 
planting out into a frame or pit; one which 
fias t^n used for violets will be found verv 
suitaWe. For some little time after they 
ha^ h^n transferred: to a pit or frame, care 
«xerci^d in ventilating; as much 
®un-neat as iwssiKliA Tvni.a+ Ka i_ 
tioe will help to maintain a comfortable 
perature. Very little water wiU be need^’ 
once they have been weU watered in until 
growth has advanced; a slight damping over 
at closing time will be beneficial to them 
As the days get warmer, ventUation can U 
gradually increased, so that by bedding^int 
time they will have become accustomed to 
exposure to the open air. 
LAWNS.—As the mowing season is an. 
pr^hing lawns must be well swept and 
rolled, in order to remove any grit or small 
^ones which may have been left from too 
dressings. Owing to the mild winter so far 
experienced, there appears to be more 
tl^n usual on the majority of lawns, and i* 
will greatly improve their appearance if tiu- 
mowiug is done at once. Turf edgings to 
beds and walks must now be trimmed, and 
if the latter are at all weedy or mossv the- 
first opportunity of settled weather should h% 
taken advantage of to dress them with a weed 
destroyer.—T. B. Fikud, Wych Cross Place 
Gardens. 
FRUITS UNDER CLASS. 
THINNING FRUITS.—This mo:.t impor. 
tant operation exerts a powerful iniiuenee 
upon colour, and where colour is imperfect, 
- quality is generally second-i ate. Evil follows 
over-cropping of grapes, peaches, melons, hgs, 
apples, pears, etc., the fruit® remaining more 
or less small, flavourless, and deficient ia 
colour. Dropping of peaches at stoning time 
is often the result of overcropping; forced 
figs play the same tricks, and one might 
multiply instances of similar loss of quality 
from the same causes. Sufficient has bot^n 
said to remind the amateur and beginners 
that they must be merciful; quantity alone 
is of no use, we must have quality also. Bad 
culture may sometimes cause a ooUapse, but 
in most instances overcropping is the chief , 
cause. The thinning of grapes, peaches, and j 
other fruits has just commenced, and all ‘ 
fruits will pay for judicious thinning, which 
will also preserve the health and vigour »'f 
the trees. Postponement of this work is also 
a waste of strength. Too light cropping, on 
the other hand, is equally bad practice, e^pe*; 
cially in the case of vigorous young 
Any competent man should be capable ef 
thinning sufficiently to ensure a full crop oi 
excellent fruit without distressing the tree^ 
or allowing them to become too gross. 
PEACHES.—Disbudding demands almost 
daily attention early in tlie spring, and majj 
be carried out conjointly with thinning untL 
each fruit and shoot has ample 
for full development. The framework of 
young trees can only be formed by most ca^ 
ful and judicious disbudding. Healthy tr^ 
are fit for disbudding as soon as the fruit*- 
are set; on the other hand, if the trees href 
weakly, disbudding should be deferred uni 
the roots and sap become more active; w 
little-and-often system is the b^. 
down the shoots as they increase in- 
but do not overcrowd the trees with young 
gfrowths; six inches or more apart is non*- 
too much. If the weather be mild the tem¬ 
perature may be advanced to 60 degrees 
night,in the early houses, but in cold weatnf 
be content with 55 degrees. Endeavour lo 
secure a temperature of 75 to 89 
closing time, with plenty of moisture, 
syringe the trees twice a day with tepid so 
water. Later trees, which will come m 
blossom this month, should have a little 1 
heat at night and during dull weather^; 
assist the blossoms in setting and to exc j 
frosty air during the period of fertilisation-J 
EARLY PINES.—It will be necessary 
to help all those Queen pines forward 
have thrown up their fruits, by daily a 
tion to the most trifling details, 
flowering stage is passed the i.-ouid 
more frequent suppli^ of tepia 
must cir 
mg up the hgnts in good time whenever 
manure, g^uano and soot water, and 
Hght dewings overhead on bright nays 
be given. March and April being efi 
able, no fixed, day or night temperature ^ 
be kept,but the minimum should rang® 
70 degrees, with 80 to 85 degrees ^ 
sun-heat favours ventilation. . 
air Warter Priory Gardens. 
