THE GARDENERS’ MAGAZINE. 
November 22, 1913. 
♦ ❖ 
I WORK FOR THE WEEK. | 
t t 
THE ORCHID HOUSES. 
WINTEH-FLOWEEING CATTLEYAS.— 
In many private gfardens tEere is consider¬ 
able demand for attractively-coloured flowers 
during- the months of November and Decem¬ 
ber, and if dtecorations consist of a limited 
class of any kind of flowers for a lengthy 
period complaints are apt to be made. 
Things are very different now to what they 
were ,a decade ago, and there is as great a 
demand for change in floral arrangements as 
in other pleasures of life. While we may 
obtain considerable variation in tints among 
florists’ flowers in general, the colours are 
limited, but we find among the autumn and 
winter-flowering cattleyas those tints of 
colour which are particularly pleasing. 
There need be no extensive outlay where 
there is a stove house, as it will afford facili¬ 
ties for the cultivation of most of the winter- 
flowering cattleyas. 
C. LABIATA is one of the most serviceable 
for the purpose, and as plants ane annually 
imported in large quantities, and are procur¬ 
able in an imported state for a modest outlay, 
there is no difiiculty in obtaining good stocks. 
They are exceedingly free-flowering, and if 
procured early in the year they bloom the 
following autumn. Like many other im¬ 
ported species they grow and flower well for 
a few years, but their free-flowering habit 
will in time cause a general deterioration. 
It is therefone desirable to add a few 
imported plants to the collection each year. 
C. Harrisonianum and C. Loddegesi, with 
their long spikes of flowers, are also most use¬ 
ful, and where suitable conditions are pro¬ 
vided the plants retain their normal vigour 
for an indefinite period. C. Bowringiana is 
another species that does well in cultivation. 
C. aurea and the natural hybrid C. Hardyana 
are also desirable. 
AMONG THE HYBRIDS, C. Mantini, C. 
Wendlandi, and a whole host of others that 
have been derived from the use of C. Bow¬ 
ringiana as one parent, are of much value. 
We have also large-flowered kinds of great 
excellence as C. Fabia, one of the most 
variable of all cattleyas; Laelio-cattleya 
Bella, and the num'euous hybrids from C. 
labiata. The greatest variation and cer¬ 
tainly the attractive colours are found in 
hybrids that have been raised from C. aurea 
or C. granulosa. The varied tints of orange, 
scarlet, and yellow among the later introdlic- 
tions have added to the charm and useful¬ 
ness of the autumn-flowering cattleyas. I 
have wanderedi from the beaten path in this 
issue to draw attention to the utility of a 
class of plants that cannot fail to be service¬ 
able to my brother gardeners, where the 
autumn requirements are a great considera¬ 
tion.— H. J. Chapman, Oakwood Gardens. 
STOVE PLANTS. 
THE PALM HOUSE.—The present season 
affords an excellent opportunity for tho¬ 
roughly overhauling the bouse devoted to 
palms, which, in common with all plants 
growing inside, cannot give of their best 
unless both the plants and the house in which 
they are growing are kept in a clean condi¬ 
tion. The leaves should first be loosely tied 
up to avoid injury when the plants are being 
moved to one end of the house while the 
vacant half receives a thorough cleaning. 
Glass, woodwork, and walls should be washed 
down with warm soapy water containing a 
little paraffin or other insecticide, the walls 
limewashed, and the granite chips or mate¬ 
rial on which the pots stand be washed or re¬ 
newed. Afterwards remove the plants to the 
clean half whilst the other section is similarly 
treated. The plants should now be thoroughly 
cleaned, scale being the most troublesome 
pest, and where this is present great care will 
be necessary to remove it without damage to 
the fronds. This, however, may be accom¬ 
plished by means of a sponge, or small brush, 
wdth a little insecticide. Thrips are some¬ 
times troublesome, but an occasional fumi¬ 
gation will keep them in check. Red spider 
is also a visitor, but usually only when 
proper care with regard to damping and 
watering has been somewhat neglected. The 
plants should now be rearranged, and where 
considered necessary the soil in the pots may 
receive a slight topdressing of soot and bone- 
meal, or other approved fertiliser. Imperfect 
drainage may be- attended to, but repotting 
had better be deferred until the early spring. 
Watering should be accomplished, with care, 
for palms generally suffer when the moisture 
about their roots is in a stagnant state dur¬ 
ing the winter months. 
BULBS, CORMS, AND TUBERS.—Having 
been stored for their resting season, these 
should, if time permits, be examined.’ Cala- 
diums are generally kept in good condition 
undisturbed in their pots in a temperature 
not lower than 60 deg., but there- is always 
the possibility of their being damaged, either 
by being in too close proximity to the hot 
water pipes, or by the soil becoming wet 
through drip. Achimenes that were stored 
with any growth remaining should now have 
this removed, ae also should gloxinias, after¬ 
wards replacing them in the resting quarters. 
Amaryllis should be examined and cleaned. 
Some of the earliest will probably be found 
throwing up their flower spites. These may 
receive a thorough soaking prior to being 
top-dressed, and be placed in a warm house, 
to form the earliest batch. Flowering in the 
winter these will prove most acceptable 
for decorative purposes. Calla Elliottaua 
should be sufficiently ripened to store in the 
pots in which they have been grown until 
reciuired' in the spring months for restarting. 
—H. Prime, Hatfield House Gardens. 
THE FLOWER CARDEN. 
THE WATER AND WILD GARDENS.— 
Now is an opportune time for giving special 
attention to the water garden and wild gar¬ 
den. In the wild garden many of the occu¬ 
pants are of herbaceous character, conse¬ 
quently their foliage is now in a state of 
decay, and ehould be cut off and cleared 
away, as most of that which was retained for 
its autumn colouring is no longer attractive. 
At the same time fallen leaves and rubbish 
can be collected. Then fork up the soil 
round about the shrubs and plants as deeply 
as possible without injuring the roots, at 
the same time working in some well-rotted 
manure or leaf-mould, the latter, nreferablv 
on stiff ground. No trouble chould be spared 
as the work proceeds to pick out the roots 
and underground stems of perennial weeds. 
Subiects not perfectly hardy should be 
afforded eome protection; lay dry material 
over the surface soil around gunneras. and 
cover their crowns with heather or their own 
roots protected by a covering of dry leaves 
or bracken are not liable to suffer to such 
an extent during a hard winter as if they 
are neglected in this respect; it is surprising 
the amount of frost well-matured growths 
of many of the bamboos will stand when 
nrovision has been made to exclude frost 
from their roots. Knipbofias, ton. are uncer¬ 
tain ^biecls in some soils, and a covering 
of dry pine leaves placed round them will 
keen them safe during severe weather. 
Mulching the various nlants in the wild gar¬ 
den with manure at this season is not to be 
recommended: such treatment is better de¬ 
ferred until the spring. The foliage of many 
water plants will now be decaying, and an 
effort should be made to clear it aw^y 
CHRISTMAS ROSES.—Varieties Pf Helle- 
borus n.iger are now beginning to bloom pro¬ 
fusely and are well worth a little attention. 
Afford the flowers some protection from in¬ 
clement weather, hut in. such a manner as 
to avoid coddling, otherwise premature 
growth will be excited. Cloches or hand- 
lights raised on bricks answer admirably for 
individual specimens, and for quantities 
growing closely together on a border, lights 
supported on a temporary framework and 
made secure against winds, will be found 
most suitable. 
SPECIMEN PLANTS in ornamental tube 
and vases, such as myrtles, camellias, hays, 
hydrangeas, chamaerops, etc., used ^or ter¬ 
races should be given some shelter from 
severe weather. If room can be found for 
them in a well-ventilated, unheated house, 
no place will be more suitable; failing this, 
a light, airy shed, or a verandah in a shel¬ 
tered position, forms a useful substitute. 
All statuary and other garden ornaments 
liable to be affected by frost should either 
be removed to a shed or be covered up with 
mats or canvas: fountain basins must be 
emptied regularly after heavy rains, unless 
ooustructed of very durable material, otW- 
wise they are liable to become split or dis¬ 
torted.— ^T. B. Field, Wycb Cross Place 
Gardens. 
FRUITS UNDER GLASS. 
EARLY PEACHES.—Where very earlv 
forcing is contemplated, whether of pot or 
permanent trees, no time should be lost in 
clearing the orchard hous.e chrysanthe¬ 
mums or other plants and placing the trees 
in Dosition. Select those trees well set with 
buds thoroughly ripened in moderately sized 
pots that are full of roots and well drained. 
Only such varieties as Cardinal and Early 
Rivers nectarines, with Duke of York peach, 
need be started yet; allow them plenty of 
time, and start vnth a low temperature and 
plenty of ventilation. Mild bottom-heat is 
a great help, and this may be secured by 
standing the trees on inverted pots with a 
good body of leaves around them. Very 
little pruning is necessary. Some of the 
strongest shoots and leaders mav he cut 
back to a triple bud, but weak shoots are 
better left until the young growths are push¬ 
ing freely. 
PERMANENT TREES. —If ripe peaches 
are required in May, the houses must he 
closed. Carefully examine the borders and 
make sure they aice in a moist condition down 
to the drainage. For some time after the 
house is closed it will not be necessary to 
aoply fire-heat, but as a free circulation 
of air is most important, it is better to 
the pipes a little, rather than have a cold, 
damp atmosnhere. Flowers expand stronger 
with free ventilation than where they do not 
receive this attention earlv. A temperatuw 
of 40 to 43 degrees is high enough to start 
with, and as the buds swell 45 degre^ ni^RV 
be given, rising to 55 degrees during the 
day with sun-heat. 
CITORRIES AND PLUMS.—If these are 
required earlv the trees mav be at 
nlaced in position; both are, however, 
impatient of fire-heat, or of being kept 
close. During moist and mild weather fuu 
ventilation may be left on night and dav. 
Provided there are shelves in this ho^, ^ 
will be found most suitable to start ^raw- 
berries in, as the temperature throuQ^h tn 
first stages need not exceed 40 to 45 degrees 
by night, and 50 degrees throughout the day. 
FIGS.—These should be started for e^lT 
supplies, and here also gentlv fermentm^ 
material is of great assistance. The 
ture of the pit or house may range from 
to 55 degrees, with a little ventilation I, 
favourable occasions. Syringe with W ^ 
water early in the day, so that t^ ti^ j 
be dry by’ nightfall. Avoid hard 
if severe weather sets in, let the 
decline a few degrees.—F. Jordan, Wa 
Priory Gardens. 
