548 
THE GARDENERS’ MAGAZINE. 
19, 191J. 
$ t 
$ WORK FOR THE WEEK. t 
»> ❖ 
THE ORCHID HOUSES. 
ODONTIODAS. — The numerous hybrids 
derived from Cochlioda Noetzliana or C. vul- 
canica and different species of odontoglos- 
sums are unquestionably proving the most 
desirable additions to cool house orchids we 
have had since the introduction of Odonto- 
glossum crispum in quantity. The plants 
are very easily grown, and the attractive¬ 
ness of their flowers is combined with dura¬ 
bility in almost all cases, and this renders 
them not only suitable for lending colour 
to our odontoglossum collections, but ex¬ 
tremely serviceable also for exhibition, and 
for all cut flower purposes. The plants are 
now plentifully distributed in gardens, and, 
as they are daily becoming more numerous, 
they are easily procurable at a modest out¬ 
lay. They are worthy of every considera¬ 
tion, and should be well represented in all 
gardens where orchids are appreciated. The 
hybrids and varietal forms are too numerous 
to be listed here, but I might add that the 
flowering season is considerably prolonged 
by having a selection of kinds derived from 
the various species of odontoglossum s 
which flower at different seasons of the year. 
The later the odontoglossum parent flowers 
the same or about the same period will the 
odontioda seedling produce its flowers also. 
I might mention, as an illustration, O. 
Charlesworthi, derived from C. Noetzliana 
and O. Harryana. This hybrid flowers in 
late summer, say, from July onward, and 
O. Harryana is flowering at the present sea- 
THE TREATMENT OF ODONTIODAS is 
similar to that for odontoglossums, but the 
temperature of the house in which they 
grow should not fall below 50 deg. at any 
season of the year. Very cool, moist treat¬ 
ment results in spotted and decayed leaves. 
When the plants are in active growth and 
well rooted, they require a liberal supply 
of root moisture. Potting requirements are 
best attended to immediately after the 
plants pass out of flower. The roots of the 
odontiodas are in most cases much finer 
than those of the odontoglossums, and thus 
a compost of a more fibrous nature is desir¬ 
able. We find a mixture of about two parts 
fibrous peat, the remainder consisting of 
broken oak-leaves, chopped sphagnum moss, 
broken cracks and sand, a good one. The 
pots selected should be large enough to con¬ 
tain the plants, and be comfortably drained 
to about one-third their depth with clean 
broken crocks and chopped bracken roots. 
The compost should be pressed moderately 
firm. Give a good watering as soon as pot¬ 
ting is completed, and keep shaded from 
strong light until the roots push into the 
fre h material. Spray the plants daily over, 
head in warm weathex, and retain ample 
moisture about the plants at all seasons 
Increase of stock is secured in the same man- 
ner as for odontoglossums, by severing the 
rhizome connecting the back pseudo-bulbs 
—H. J. Chapman, Oakwood Gardens. 
STOVE PLANTS. 
PLEROMA ELEGANS.—Since its flower¬ 
ing season is now over, this beautiful rich 
blue-flowering plant is now commencing to 
grow freely, and should receive such atten¬ 
tion to potting or top-dressing as is neces¬ 
sary to encourage the production and tho¬ 
rough maturing of the growths to yield next 
season’s flowers. The soil most suitable is 
a mixture of loam and peat in good fibrous 
condition, with the addition of a little sand 
and dried cow manure or sheep manure 
passed through a sieve. The longest 
growths may be stopped once or twice 
during the growing season to keep the plant 
shapely, and attention must be given to 
keeping it clean and free from insects. Pro¬ 
pagation may be effected by means of cut¬ 
tings inserted now in small pots, and kept 
close until rooted. 
PLEROMA MACRANTHA.—This requires 
cooler treatment, and is suitable for train¬ 
ing on a wall or trellising of the interme¬ 
diate house, or warm conservatory. It is 
grown best if planted out or in large tubs or 
pots. Attention should be paid to keeping 
the growths fairly thinned, tying as is 
necessary, and keeping them clean and free 
from insects. 
MEDINILLAS. — These lovely plants, 
flowering usually in May and June, will now 
be commencing to make the growths which 
are to produce the flowers of next season, 
and should also be top-dressed or repotted. 
The soil they prefer consists of equal parts 
fibrous loam’, peat, and well-decayed leaf- 
mould, with the addition of about a sixth 
part of silver sand. Cuttings of the young 
growths may be taken when large enough, 
and kept very close until rooted. During 
the growing season medinillas revel in a 
moist atmosphere and high temperature. 
The variety magnifica has beautiful rosy- 
pink, pendulous racemes of flowers, while 
amabilis has more erect panicles of flowers 
of nearly the same colour. 
APHELANDRA ROEZLI.—Raised from 
seeds as previously recommended, the plants 
should by this time be ready for their 
flowering pots; soil as recommended for 
medinillas will suit very well. Pot firmly, 
and see that the pots are well drained. An 
open position in the stove or on the shelf 
will suit it. 
SCUTELLARIA MOCCINIANA.—This is 
a very pretty and useful plant, which bears 
racemes of bright orange-scarlet, tubular 
flowers, each two inches or so in length. It 
is propagated by cuttings taken in the 
spring. The plants should by this time, be 
ready for their flowering pots, into which 
they should be placed fairly firmly, using a 
similar compost to that above recommended. 
—H. Prime, Hatfield House Gardens. 
THE FLOWER GARDEN. 
ROSES.—^So far the present season is prov¬ 
ing favourable to roses, and for some time 
they have been giving a wealth of blossom. 
Among those gK)wn either as dwarfs or 
standards, varieties of the tea and hybrid 
tea sections are deservedly the most popular, 
alike for their elegantly shaped flowers of 
innumerable tints, and their charming foli¬ 
age, as well as their perpetual flowering 
habit. Apart from picking off all old blos¬ 
soms regularly, the plants should be ex¬ 
amined occasionally, and the growths which 
have borne flowers be shorten^; this encou¬ 
rages back buds to break more freely, and 
it is from these that we obtain young* shoots 
wh’ch flower almost continuously until late 
in the year. Frequent applications of liquid 
or artificial rose manure do much to main¬ 
tain the vigour of the plants, which in some 
free-flowering varieties is in danger of be¬ 
coming overtaxed. In districts where the 
soil is not particularly suited to rose cul¬ 
ture, feeding the plants is important, and 
the manure which should be used for the 
purpKise can soon be determined by the 
results. Many failures in rose growing 
can be attributed to mildew, and I am con¬ 
vinced that it is not recognised by many as 
being so far-reaching in its effects as it really 
is. A plant once attacked by it is weakened 
constitutionally if the malady is allowed to 
pursue its own course, and is thus more 
liable to become a victim to other diseases 
and pests. Sudden changes in the weather 
and temperature at this season are usually 
followed by attacks of mildew, in districts 
where it is prevalent, and at the first in¬ 
dication evjry effort should be made to 
check It Spraying with a solution of 
phide of potassium (loz. in one gallon of 
water) will be found very effective and as a 
preventive it can be us^ periodically fw 
a week to ten days throughout the seamc 
I advised in a previous calendar. ' 
SPRING BEDDING PLANTS.-MaBt of 
these raised from seeds sown last month aie 
now far enough advanced to be planted ont 
choose an open position in which to plant 
them, as the need for sturdy plants capaUe 
of withstanding rough, wintry weather mi 
be kept in view. In preparing the grot 
dig in a good dressing of light rotten ma 
rial, as to this the roots will adhere, a 
so the plants can be lifted with a good^bu. 
of earth attached when being transferred to 
the beds and borders in the autumn.— T. B. 
Field, Wych Cross Place Gardens. 
FRUITS UNDER CLASS. 
PINEAPPLES.—The months of Mav i 
June were, on the whole, highly favourable 
to the swelling of early fruits, and, under 
favourable influence, the early Queen 
made good progress. Bright, hiebly- 
flavoured fruits cannot be obtain^ witboit 
the aid of strong solar heat, light, and aii. 
Therefore, as the fruits change colour, ia- 
crease the circulation of air and le- 
duce the supply of moisture; indeed, 
root-watering must almost cease, aid 
atmospheric moisture be gradually d^ 
creased. The next set of fruiters will now 
be making rapid progress, and daylight ha?, 
ing reached its limit, the temperature may 
be about 75 degrees at night, falliujf to 
70 degrees in the morning, with 85 degw 
throughout the day, and 95 degrees af^ 
closing with sun heat and moisture. Do not 
syringe the plants overhead in the 
only damp the beds and other 
places, but lightly spray them J 
closing time in the afternoon. High w 
ing is necessary when the pots are fwl 
roots, and a great deal can be accompli*^ 
by syringing weak liquid manure and pa 
water into the axils of the leaves, and . 
filling the evaporating pans, and 
sprinkling the floors at closing time _ 
the same. At all times the Queens rfq»« 
the greatest care in watering. 
and others are more robust, and na . 
require a larger quantity of stimu 
liquids. Remove all gills as thev ap^- 
support the fruits, and do not . 
then two suckers to remain on each plani- 
SUCCESSIONAL PINES.—Plants to 
started early next year should now tc ^ 
ing fast, and must be encouraged 
steady progress by ^nerous treatment ^ 
weak stimulants and other careful a 
A little fire-heat may be necessary, nui ^ 
heat is best, and early airing and ei . 
closing should be the rule. 
SUCKERS.—These should be 
amined and drawn out for a sni 
they become too pot-bound, fpr, ^ 
frequentlv happens, they reauire a shi 
fore one ^is aware of it. Shading is 
sary, but it must be of a gcild. 
as pines with plenty of roots 
and, of two evils, it is better to ‘ 
a little brown than drawn and s(ii 
ture. - 
MELONS.—A constant 
young plants must still be j fri^ 
for use as vacancies in pits 1* 
occur. Seeds cost little, and 8^ , ^ 
freely as marrows, and young P ^ 
the best results when put out ea • 
quick succession it is necessary ^ le 
be established in their fruitme ^ 
2ft. to 3ft. high by the time the las^ 
are cut from their utiimn. ^ 
culture late in the summer an ^ > 
compost should always be ^ sti«5 
is easier to t 
growth. Melons in hot, dry . 
stand any reasonable care, S 
should always be watered w ^ 
moderatelv when swelling, ^ 
lose in size they will gam m “ 
Jordan, Warter Priory Garden 
