THE GARDENERS’ MAGAZINE. 
Septembeb13, 1913. 
% 
I WORK FOR THE WEEK. 
THE ORCHID HOUSES. 
MILTONIAS.—Some of tlie early-flowering 
varieties are now cx>mmencing to make new 
growths, and plants- that may require repot¬ 
ting, should receive the necessary shift. With 
reference to M. vexillaria, I wrote at some 
length in the spring of the year, pointing out 
the different meth^ods adopted by various 
growers, and advocated repotting just be¬ 
fore the plants showed their flower spikes, in 
localities where the fogs cause so much loss 
of foliage during the late autumn and win¬ 
ter months. When the plants are grown 
where the atmosphere is free from impurities, 
it is advisafble to attend to the repotting 
that is required at the present time. It is 
not necessary to annually repot large speci¬ 
mens if the potting compost is in a good 
state of preservation, but should they become 
hollow in the middle, through loss of leaves, 
they should be repotted at the present, 
time. Turn them out of their pots, and 
cut away unnecessary leafless pseudo-bulbs. 
The old bulbs thus severed may be placed in 
small pots, and as they usually produce new 
growths readily, the stock of any desirable 
find can be thus increased. Miltonia vexil¬ 
laria is usually considered "surface rooting, 
and therefore does not require a great depth 
of compost. The pots or pans should be filled 
to about half their depth with clean drainage 
materials. The compost should be graded 
according to the size of the specimen, using 
the finer compost for the smaller plants. 
Good fibrous peat and chopped sphagnum 
moss, with sufficient sand, broken crocks, and 
charcoal to render it porous, form an excel¬ 
lent compost. This should be pressed mode¬ 
rately firm about the roots, and finish potting 
by mounding slightly in the centre. Water 
as soon as potting is completed, wetting the 
compost through, soft water being prefer¬ 
able. The plants should be carefully shaded 
after repotting, and a humid condition main¬ 
tained about them by syringing between the 
pots, and spraying overhead whenever the 
outside conditions permit. Tbrips are a great 
hindrance to the successful cultivation of 
M. vexillaria. It is well to have the plants 
carefully dipped in some safe insecticide be¬ 
fore repotting. They must be kept under 
close observation at all seasons of the year, 
spraying and vapourising at r^ular intervals 
being the best means of keeping these pests 
in check. 
MILTONIA EOEZLI and its variety alba, 
also M. phalaenopsis, are best grown under 
stove conditions, a humid position, where 
there is an abundance of condensation at all 
seasons of the year, suiting them admirably. 
Especially is this the case where the position 
is within close proximity to the glass. In 
such a position the pots may be plunged to 
their rims in growing sphagnum moss. The 
repotting necessary should be attended to at 
the present season. Provide ample drainage 
and a compost as advised above. — H. J. 
Chapman, Oakwood Gardens. 
STOVE PLANTS. 
STOVE CLIMBERS.—Whether planted 
out or grown as trained specimens in pots, 
these should for some time hence be kept 
rather drier at the roots, and, if necessary, 
he subjected to a final thinning of the 
growths to ensure thorough ripening of 
those remaining, and also to give as much 
light as p^sible to plants growing beneath 
them, this applying especially to such 
climbers as Clerodendron Thomsonae, dipla- 
demas, and Hexacentris mysorensis. 
, GLORIOSA SUPERBA.—When this beau¬ 
tiful flowering plant has passed its best, 
water should be gradually withheld. Allow 
the growths to remain until the tubers are 
well ripened, when the pots may be placed 
in a dry position until the tubers are required 
to be restarted in spring. 
STEPHANOTIS FLORIBUNDA. — This 
lovely fragrant climber requires rather less 
water from now until the end of the winter, 
but, being quite evergreen, it must not be 
allowed to remain in so dry a condition as to 
cause the slightest shrivelling of the wood. 
ALLAMANDAS will continue to bloom for 
a time, and, unless required for flowering 
early, should not be unduly hastened to a 
condition of comparative rest. 
BEGONIA GLOIRE DE LORRAINE.— 
Discontinue the removal of the flower buds 
of those required to bloom from mid-October 
onward, and to maintain a succession allow 
batches to commence flowering at intervals of 
about three weeks. As the flowers open re¬ 
move the plants if possible to a rather drier 
atmosphere that the flowering season may be 
prolonged. 
GENERAL REMARKS.—Shading will be 
necessary only during the very warmest part 
of the day, and may shortly be entirely dis¬ 
pensed with. All permanent shading should 
^ washed from roof and house sides. Syring- 
ings must be less frequent, generally speak¬ 
ing, once daily in bright weather in the 
middle of the morning being sufficient; morn^ 
ing and afternoon damping between the 
lants will yet be necessary. To have the 
eating arrangements in go^ condition it is 
advisable to flush out the boilers. Flues and 
chimneys should be cleaned and necessary re- 
2 >airs attended to as early as possible. In the 
stove the temperature should not exceed 70 
degrees at night, or the riight temperature of 
the intermediate house 65.— H. Prime, Hat¬ 
field Gardens. 
FRUITS UNDER GLASS. 
EARLY VINES:^Root-lifting, top-dress- 
3^Jid any other details should receive at-, 
tention at the -first opportunity. This should 
be practised when the vines have become 
weak owing; to the compost being exhausted, 
and needs being replaced with soil of better 
quality. Sufficient compost must be prepared 
in quantity equal to the probable demand, 
using a fair addition of lime rubble, char¬ 
coal, bone-meal, and also a moderate sprink¬ 
ling of some approved vine manure. Com¬ 
mence at the extreme front of the border, 
and gradually work out the old compost with 
forks, taking care of all the roots as the 
work proceeds. The best course is to tie them 
up in moist bundles until the drainage is 
rendered efficient, and the border made ready 
for the new compost. New turf grass, side 
downwards, forms an excellent base for the 
compost, w.hich is wheeled in and made tho¬ 
roughly firm by treading until high enough 
for the first layer of roots emanating from 
the lowest part of the undisturbed border. 
Spre^ the roots out evenly^ removing all 
faulty or injured parts with a sharp knife, 
place a little soil over them, and make firm, 
following this with another layer until all is 
finished. Keep the vines close during the 
progress of the work, and in a moist condi¬ 
tion; and in severe cases shade, especially if 
the roots are wholly inside or outside, as the 
case may be. 
TOP-DRESSING VINE BORDERS.—This 
being an annual operation, the 'best time to 
perform the work is as soon as the leaves 
fall, and pruning can take place, or even 
before on outside borders. Prick over the 
borders carefully, remove all old mulchings, 
and remove the soil carefully, when the sur¬ 
face rootlets will be laid bare. After this 
has been done apply a dressing of fresh com¬ 
post similar to the above to the depth of 
about two inches, making all firm as the work 
proceeds. 
LATE GRAPES. - These must now be 
pushed forward to have them thoroughly rine 
by the end of the month, or they will oM 
keep well during the winter. Pinch all Ute. 
rals, and allow all light possible to pUr 
amongst the fruit. ' 
POT VINES intended for starting in No. 
veinber should now be ripe and resting with 
their pots covered with some non-conducting 
material to prevent injury from drought. 
They will not require much water after the 
foliage is ripe, but the ball of soil must not 
be allowed to shrink from the sides of the 
pots, as soon happens if neglected. As the 
canes cannot be too well ripened, this point 
should have proper attention before the 
leaves fall, after which all excitement must 
cease, and the vines given perfect rest. A 
wall facing west is a good place for them, 
provided the roots are well covered. Young 
vines, which are grown as cut-backs, will soon 
be ripe and fit for removal to a high, airy 
house, or they will do equally well against a 
sheltered wall. Like the preceding, they 
must not be allowed to suffer from dryness 
at the roots. The young canes should be 
securely fastened to the wall to prevent 
injury by winds, and also to give the buds 
the fullest benefit of sunheat. Where it is 
intended to make fresh borders for the com¬ 
ing winter, the sooner the materials for their 
composition are prepared, the better. — F. 
Jordan, Warter Priory, Y"ork. 
THE FLOWER CARDEN. 
ROSE CUTTINGS.—There are many advo- 
cates for growing roses on their ovm root^. 
and whenever the constitution of a vanety w 
mch as to enable it to flourish without having 
to derive support from a vigorous stock, it 
las much to commend it. "Hie nuisance of 
suckers springing up from the stock is over- 
come, and also the development of the root 
ind stem is more in agreement, thus reducing 
to a minimum the liability of plants growi^ 
IS dwarfs being broken off by rough i«n^ 
mmediately under the surface of the soil, 
rhe present time is a suitable one for 
nserting cuttings, which should be 
Tom young, matured growths, and taken on 
vith a sharp knife at the heel.* Shorten hoc 
;he tip of the growth, so as to leave the eat¬ 
ing about 12in. in length. In 
listriete most varieties will root if 
n rows in tbe open ground, but ^ 
;hey require the protection of 
ir cloches, and in such cases the 
nust 'be inserted in groups, over . 
overs will fit when it becomes necessary law 
n the autumn to use them. o i vro- 
LAVENDER, ROSEMARY, AND bAMU 
dNAS.—It is a sound practice of 
laving a stock of young plants of 
garden shrubs in hand, as they 
eptible to dyingoff in anunaccoimtaWe 
he time when the general ot 
.ranting comes on, every opportunity 
o taken advanftage of 
ossible all work that will ob 
ure later on. The go^ results 
he early planting of bulbs is con- 
lised, and where any 
emplated, there is no 
resent for carrying it out. In ^ J^f^ering 
he cultivation of Darwin and M J 
ulips and special varieties of n 
n important feature, and 
otted to them. In such ?thegi^““^ 
ulbs can be proceeded with after the g 
uas been well dug and 
HARDY CLIMBERS.—Thei^na 
ompleted their seasen’s agajn^ 
oung shoots should be made nailio^* 
ough winds, either by t^“g^ ' . suP^t* 
Yhile this work proceeds, thin ^udicioiv'^ 
nous and undeveloped growths. ^ ^ 
Unming those remairn^ 
ations most favourable W tb* 
ipened. It neid. 
laturity of the growths Wvch Cro®* 
ower nroduction.—T. B. Vtslv, . 
