Westminster Nurseries, Westvnmter ^ Maryland 
DECIDUOUS SHRUBS 
In diversity of form, variety of species, contrast of foliage and variation of blossom this group holds 
unusual interest and as a group they prove to be the finishing touches of virtually all landscape plantings. 
With trees we have made our bolder outlines and shaded the grounds—but we use deciduous shrubs to 
soften the borders or edges of drives, walks and boundaries; to emphasize some lawn feature; to mellow 
rigid lines or sharp angles; to fill depressions; to screen objectionable views; to cover slopes or divide 
areas. From early spring, yes, even late winter, they unfold their wondrous bowers of yellow, pink, white 
and red flowers on backgrounds of purple, yellow, light and dark green foliage. The attractive fruits and 
berries often adhere after autumn has spread its brilliant colors on the foliage. Proper selection as to 
height and careful choosing of varieties will insure the accomplishments mentioned and provide a source 
of indescribable pleasure. 
Planting Suggestions 
There is frequently a tendency to overplant in the attempt of immediate effect. Do not be impatient as 
it takes several years to grow mature plants. So, in planning your requirements, here is a general rule to 
apply: On real good soil the spread of a shrub usually approximates the height; in other words, a five to six 
foot shrub will spread just aliout that much. Of course, there will naturally be exceptions to this rule. 
Dig holes and plant as deeply as they stood in the nursery row. Shake the plants so the soil will sift 
into the roots. Some shrubs have great masses of filirous roots and if the soil is merely thrown on top, 
they will surely die. Contact with every root insures growth, so work the earth carefully through these 
masses. At the time of planting, it is beneficial to prune shrubs by taking off at least a third of the tops. 
The pruning after development frequently causes confusion. “Prune when the knife is sharp” has long 
been a saying and few, if any, shrubs were ever killed by pruning. One time is really no better than 
another; but, unless otherwise necessary, you will find that the best results are obtained by light pruning 
immediately after the blossoms fall. Heavy pruning at any time will cause the plants to put aside their 
blossom-forming buds and make wood growth and you lose or lessen the next season’s blossom. That is 
why light pruning is suggested annually or biennially. Pruning in the dormant stage is not injurious and 
some plants can be so much better shaped when the branches are defoliated. In all pruning it is suggested 
to not bob off the tops and make hedges of your massed plants. This causes a new “break” or ugly 
offset giving them a two-story effect. Shorten the canes to side branches so they will develop all the 
natural tcndancy or other characteristics of the plant. To remove canes, cut close to the crowns as this 
causes them to renew naturally from the bottoms. Now for the perpetual exceptions—all terminal blooming 
plants like hydrangeas, hypericum, bush roses, etc., that bloom on the “tips” of the new growth, need 
severe pruning if large blossoms are wanted. Constantly renew this young wood by pruning in the dormant 
and semi-dormant period only. On all shrubs, cut out all dead and old wood. Lilacs should be pruned 
only once every six or seven years, and then cut back hard. Nothing benefits a shrub more than proper 
liruning. When done correctly, you will be rewarded with a wealth of bloom and beauty ot shape. 
