BEGONIAS (Socotrana Hybrids) 
CULTURAL DIRECTIONS 
SOCATRANA HYBRIDS . . The culture of the Soca 
trana hybrids differs slightly from the summer-flowering tu¬ 
berous Begonias. Originally they were produced by crossing 
Begonia Socatrana with tuberous Begonias. All the offsprings 
are sterile and have to be propagated artificially by cuttings. 
FLOWERING SEASON By October 
the plants will commence to bloom and 
will continue to do so throughout the win¬ 
ter, if kept at a temperature of 60 to 65 de¬ 
grees, which suits them best during the 
flowering season. When the flowering 
period is over, the plants rest from the end 
of January until the end of March. At this 
time water should be given very carefully, 
just sufficient to retain the stems and leaves; 
if too much is allowed, rot may set in. On 
the other hand, if insufficient water is given, 
the stems and leaves fall away and the plant 
is much less ready to commence growth 
when required. Early in April, when growth 
recommences, water can be given more 
freely. 
HOUSE CULTURE . . . Those who have 
no greenhouse facilities may grow these 
Begonias in pots out doors well protected 
against the sun but giving sufficient light 
to prevent them from being spindly. When 
cool weather approaches in October they 
may be transferred into the house where if 
given sufficient light they will bloom very 
freely, especially if kept in a cool, dry tem¬ 
perature. 
TUBERS . . . When plants attain an age 
of two years the tubers are sufficiently large 
to shake out of the soil for a resting period. 
These can be restarted in May in a mixture of coarse sand and 
leafmold and potted up later as described for cuttings. Several 
shoots will appear on the tuber, some of which may be cut off 
with the basal ring and rooted in the same manner as the 
shoots from leaf axils. Individual leaves can be cut off and 
rooted in sand but the percentage of them forming plants is 
comparatively small and varies with the variety. 
PROPAGATION BY CUTTINGS Young shoots, 
formed in the axils of the leaves in April and May when the 
resting period is over, may be cut when approximately two to 
three inches long with the basal ring and rooted in sand. If 
bottom heat is available, they will root within two or three 
weeks. Under cooler conditions they will root a little slower 
bur very freely. They should be kept close and heavily shaded 
but as soon as they begin rooting, ventilation should take 
place. Potted up in three-inch pots, they will begin growing 
freely if kept either in the greenhouse or out-of-doors in a 
lath house. Before becoming pot-bound they should be trans¬ 
planted into larger pots, as necessary during the summer, and 
pinched once or even twice to prevent them from blooming 
too early and to form a nice, bushy growth. In this manner cut¬ 
tings rooted in June will require approximately six- to seven- 
inch pots by September. Those rooted in July will finish in 
smaller pots. 
SOIL ..The mixture best suited for these Begonias consists 
of two parts of loam, two parts of leafmold and one part of 
sand. A sprinkling of bone meal added will be beneficial. For 
the final planting one part of well rotted manure can be incor¬ 
porated into the soil. Always see that the soil mixture is coarse 
and light, and pot lightly at all times. 
PESTS ... Rusty foliage is a sign that the mite is present, or 
a species of thrip. Both can be exterminated by fumigation or 
spraying with nicotine. Aphis will attack some of the varieties 
under greenhouse conditions; these too can be exterminated 
in the same manner. Syringing twice a day during the summer 
growth will keep these pests down if grown our of doors. Un¬ 
der greenhouse conditions keep the temperature quite moist 
with good ventilation, seeing that the foliage is always dry 
before evening, otherwise rot may take place. 
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