CULTURE OF DELPHINIUM HYBRIDS 
SEED . . . Delphiniums can easily be grown from seed 
which can be sown practically any time of the year, according 
to the climatic conditions, equipment available or time of 
flowering desired. Under California conditions, for early 
spring flowers, sow from June to September; midsummer 
blooms, December to January; and for fall blooms, February 
to April. In regions with severe winters, the early summer 
sowing, from June to July, is recommended, so that the little 
plants are well established before the winter sets in. Other¬ 
wise, the most practical time to sow is early spring. Seed can 
be kept in good condition for several years if kept in air-tight 
containers in a refrigerator. In fact, it is practicable even with 
fresh seed to place it between two moist blotting papers and 
leave it directly under the freezing compartment of the re¬ 
frigerator for at least a week to induce higher germination. 
For best results, sow in flats in a mixture of two-thirds coarse 
leaf-mold and one-third loam, covering slightly with the same 
mixture, and moisten thoroughly. To prevent evaporation, 
cover the flats with newspaper and glass until germination 
takes place. Immediately after the young plants begin to ap¬ 
pear, both the glass and the newspaper should be taken off; 
however, the plants should be kept shaded and kept moist 
constantly. 
GERMINATION ... If the seeds do not germinate 100 
per cent and the flats are exposed to strong light immedi¬ 
ately after the first few plants have appeared, the rest may not 
germinate at all. Artificial heat can be used for germination in 
early spring and it will give far better results than the natural 
heat in summer. To get the best results in germination, bot¬ 
tom heat is necessary, with a cool temperature overhead. This 
is well supplied under glass in early spring; however, in sum¬ 
mer, due to hot weather conditions, it is usually the opposite 
and this is why many people have failures even with the very 
freshest seed. At temperatures of 8P degrees Fahrenheit and 
up, the germination is often very poor and what germinates 
stands a very good chance of being simply cooked. To prevent 
this, after the seeds are sown in flats, place them on the floor 
in a cool room or shed, where they can be kept dark for the 
first ten days, until germination takes place; then give light 
and fresh air, but keep them well protected against any drying 
out. We have repeatedly checked on seeds which were sown 
under greenhouse conditions in summer or the cool shed 
method or a well-shaded lath house, and the results in each 
case were from 20 to 50 per cent better under lath house con¬ 
ditions than under the greenhouse conditions. Under slow, 
cool germination practically every seed will gradually come 
up. Under quick, hot conditions only a few will germinate, 
the rest remaining dormant in the soil. Dampening off will 
occur only if flats are kept too wet in the greenhouse, without 
proper ventilation. Watering with a weak solution of Clorox, 
2 to 49(, we have found to be the best cure and preventive. 
TRANSPLANTING .. . When second leaves are developed 
and before plants are too crowded, prick in flats three inches 
apart in a mixture of two-thirds sandy loam and one-third 
leafmold. Keep shaded for two or three weeks; then gradually 
give more light and, when larger, harden off in full sunlight 
before planting out in permanent position about two or three 
feet apart. Open, sunny location is necessary for best develop¬ 
ment. In shade they will grow too spindly, with only small 
flower spikes. If too close to walls, they will mildew more 
than in the open. The ground should be well prepared for 
planting. A liberal application of well-rotted cow or sheep 
manure, with a .sprinkling of bone meal mixed with the soil, 
which should be dug a foot deep, will produce fine growth. 
Heavy, wet soils will require a slight addition of lime. Good 
drainage and uniform supply of moisture during the growth 
is essential. 
FEEDING . . . When the first crop of blooms has faded, cut 
the flower spikes off just above the foliage and keep slightly 
dry for two or three weeks, to give the plants time to rest be¬ 
fore the new shoots appear above the ground. When this 
takes place, cut the rest of the old stock off, sprinkle a tea¬ 
spoonful of ammonium phosphate around each plant, rake it 
into the soil slightly and water thoroughly. From the new 
shoots appearing from the ground select two or three of the 
strongest and break the rest out. The remaining ones will 
develop into fine spikes again. Do not force a new growth 
late in autumn; rather keep the plants on the dry side, be¬ 
cause if forced into bringing a third crop late in the season 
the plants will soon exhaust themselves and gradually die out. 
DISEASES . . . Mildew will attack plants grown close to a 
wall, or planted thickly together, especially later in the fall. 
The new "Ortho Mildew Spray,” originated by the California 
Spray-Chemical Corporation, Richmond, California, diluted 
with water to a 4 per cent strength, will control it perfectly. 
This spray not only acts as a preventive but will cure heavily- 
affected plants, as it kills the mildew instantly. It is a light oil 
and can be applied at any time without burning the foliage, 
to which it gives a nice, shiny appearance. 
DELPHINIUM CARDINALE 
AND ZALIL 
Sowing directions for the scarlet Larkspur differ slightly from 
that for the garden hybrids. They cannot be transplanted with 
bare roots when growing. Sow either in small pots and plant 
out later without disturbing the root system, or sow in flats 
in peat, with slight addition of sand only. Peat is the only 
medium that will stick to the roots so they may be safely trans¬ 
planted into the field. 
I PAGE nineteen] 
