PERENNIALS (Culture C) 
The varieties marked ‘‘Perennial” in this catalogue do not usually bloom 
until the following year after sowing, but continue to live and bloom each 
year thereafter. Many, however, will bloom the first year from seed if 
sown indoors during February-March and good, strong plants produced 
for planting out during April-May. In such cases they usually bloom 
later than their proper season. However, the following year they will 
bloom in their proper period. 
The list of perennial plants is very extensive and includes many of the 
most desirable garden subjects. We give below a brief list of the most 
popular kinds that are easily raised from seed. Perennial plants are 
costly, therefore raising your own is not only extremely economical but 
also very gratifying. 
—: FOR DISPLAY AND CUTTING, ETC. 
Achillea, Agrostemma, Anchusa, Anthemis, Aquilegia (Colum¬ 
bine), Calliopsis (Coreopsis), Campanula, Chrysanthemum, Del¬ 
phinium, Dianthus, Digitalis (Foxglove), Eupatorium, Gaillardia, 
Geum, Gypsophila, Hesperis, Heuchera, Hollyhock, Lathyrus, 
Linum, Lupins, Pentstemon, Poppy, Pyrethrum, Salvia, Sca¬ 
bious, Shasta Daisy, Thalictrum. 
Prepare an open ground seed bed which should be raised 2 or 3 inches 
above the ground level; the width of the bed should not exceed 4 feet and 
can be any convenient length, the soil should be well dug over and broken 
up, to which add a generous amount of sand and fine peat moss. Also 
some bonemeal and sheep manure will be beneficial. Do not use chemical 
fertilizers. The bed may be surrounded by boards of wood 12 inches 
or more high. 
During the period between May and August sow the seeds thickly in shal¬ 
low drills or rows 4 or .5 inches apart across the bed, cover the seeds light¬ 
ly and press the soil gently over the seed rows, then insert name labels in 
front of each row. Very fine seeds should not be covered, merely press 
them into the soil. 
At no time should the soil be allowed to become hard or dry, even a very 
short period of such drying being fatal to seeds just germinating. Lack of 
water and excessive watering are very harmful, the latter will cause the 
seed to rot, make the soil sour or create harmful fungus diseases and 
“damping off,” when the seedlings will simply disappear overnight. 
The seed bed should be protected from the direct rays of the sun by using 
a screen made from burlap bagging-cloth or laths (thin strips of wood) 
placed about \]/2 inches apart. Remove the shading during damp or 
cloudy weather. Remember, proper ventilation is absolutely necessary 
and provision should be made to protect the seed bed against very 
heavy rains. 
NOTE—In the case of hard-shelled seeds they 
Perennial Alpine and Rock Plants (Culture D) 
The list below suggests a number of low-growing perennials which are 
suitable for edging, mass planting, rockeries, etc. They are easily raised 
from seed and should be given the same treatment as recommended for 
Perennials.” 
Aethionema, Ajuga, Alyssum, Arabia, Arenaria, Aubrietia. 
Candytuft, Cerastium, Dianthus, Draba, Erinus, Helianthe- 
mum, Matricaria, Nepeta, Platycodon, Potentilla, Silene, 
Veronica, Viola, etc. 
Seeds of certain other Alpines, Rock Plants and the Hardy Primu- 
laceae, also Dictamnus, Helleborus, Clematis, Epimedium, 
Gentiana, should be sown in pots or boxes in the Autumn and early 
\Vmter, and after a good watering should be stood outdoors against a 
north hedge or wall where they can get frozen, then when milder weather 
sets in, bring the pots into gentle heat and the seeds will germinate freely, 
or the seeds may be mixed with some dry peat moss, put into glass jars 
with tight covers and then placed in an ice box or refrigerator for several 
weeks before sowing. It is not necessary that they be frozen. 
BIENNIALS (Culture E) 
Varieties marked ‘‘Biennial” in this catalogue are those which do not 
usually bloom until the year following sowing, but unlike perennials, the 
plants die after the flowering season. They include— 
BeUis perennis (Double English Daisy), Campanula (Canterbury- 
bell), Cheiranthus (Siberian Wallflower), Myosotis (Forget-me-not), 
Pansy, Sweet-william, Wallflower, and certain other plants which, 
although botanically classified as “Perennial” are too tender to with¬ 
stand our Winters. 
The culture of Biennials is the same as recommended for Perennials. 
Greenhouse and House Plants (Culture F) 
These are the plants which must be grown indoors except in the far 
South and frostless sections. 
Amaryllis, Abutilon, Acacia, Calceolaria, Cineraria, Cleroden- 
dron, Cyclamen, Exacum, Fuchsia, Gloxinia, Halanchoe, Prim¬ 
ula (Tender sorts), Saintpaulia, Schizanthus, Strelitzia, Strep- 
tocarpus, Streptosolen, Tydaea, etc. 
Generally speaking the seeds should be sown in gentle heat, in pots or 
pans of loam, leafmold and sand, in equal parts, placing a piece of glass 
over the pot and keeping shaded and moist until the seedlings are up. 
Pot these off singly when large enough to handle and replace in heat, 
shading and keeping close until established. Transplant into larger pots 
as necessary. Seeds of Amaryllis and Strelitzia should be sown imme¬ 
diately on receipt and require strong heat from below, otherwise the 
seed may rot. 
jld be soaked in water for two or three days. 
COLD Not WARM (Culture G) 
We offer as a guide the following list of 
Perennial Flowers, seed of which need Cold 
not Heat to start them. They should be 
sown in open-ground beds or unheated cold- 
frames in the late Autumn, germination to 
take place in the Spring, or they may be 
sown in late Winter or early Spring (March- 
April) outdoors. 
Two or three weeks in a refrigerator pre¬ 
vious to Spring sowing will be beneficial 
to the seed. 
Sow in Cold Weather and Soil 
Aconitum, Adonis, Alstroemeria, 
Anemone, Aster hybridus yellow, Cimi- 
cifuga. Clematis, Corydalis, Delphini¬ 
um cardinale, Delphinium nudicaule. 
Dicentra (Dielytra), Dictamnus, Dode- 
catheon, Dryas, Eremurus, Gentiana, 
Helleborus, Hepatica, Helionias, Iris, 
Lewisia, Liatris, Lilies {but not those of¬ 
fered by us), Meconopsis, Ostrowskia, 
Peony, Phlox, Primula {some kinds), 
Romneya, Rosa (Rose), Ruellia, Santo- 
lina, Soldanella, Thermopsis and 
Violets (Sweet). 
NOTE: Violas should be sown during the 
cool weather of early Spring or September, 
outdoors. 
WARM Not COLD 
Seeds which require heat to start them 60 
degrees or over are those of most indoor or 
Greenhouse Plants, see Cidture F; and, in 
somewhat lesser degree the seeds of Half- 
hardy Annuals listed under Culture B. 
Seed Germinating in Testing Apparatus 
EXPLANATIONS 
This Sign o indicates seed is treated. 
This Sign indicates suitable for rockeries, etc. 
Culture A & B, Hints on Sowing Annuals.Page 4 
Culture C & D, Hints on Sowing Perennials. .. Page .5 
Culture E, Hints on Sowing Biennials.Page 5 
Culture F, Hints on Sowing Indoor Plants.Page 5 
Culture G, Seeds requiring cold to start.Page 5 
AUTUMN SOWING 
OF ANNUAL FLOWER SEEDS 
For Spring Blooming 
Seed of most annual flowers can be sown in 
the late Autumn for the purpose of produc¬ 
ing a mass display and for cutting, rockeries^ 
etc. {but not for designed gardens). 
This method will provide a crop of excellent 
flowers during June-July and, with Spring 
and successive sowings flowers can be ob¬ 
tained from early Summer until frost. 
The ideal time for Autumn sowing is just 
before the- ground freezes, November 15th is 
early enough in most eastern states and in 
normal seasons, the idea is to get the seed 
into the ground too late to germinate 
but ready to start as soon as frost leaves 
the ground in the Spring. 
No protecting cover is necessary, however, 
if there is danger of washing-out, a loose 
cover of evergreen boughs or similar mate¬ 
rial can be used. 
The seed may be broadcast or sown in rows 
but should be only lightly covered with soil 
about half the depth used in Spring sowing. 
In Florida sow from September onwards. 
South of the Mason-Dixon line sowing 
should be delayed until February or early 
March. 
EXCEPTIONS 
Centaurea cyanus {Cornflower) and Lark¬ 
spur may also be sown in early September— 
thin out the young plants to 12 inches apart. 
The roots often survive normal Winters. 
COMPLETE FLOWER SEED INDEX—Common and Botanical Names—SEE END OF CATALOGUE 
5 
