will make them dry and withered by May 1st or 
soon after. In setting- plants with a heavy top 
growth, when roots are set at the proper depth 
the long, large stems and leaves make the plants 
seem top-heavy and there is a tendency to set 
the plant too deep. If the plants are to live the 
buds must not be covered and the soil must be 
pressed firmly about the roots. When the weather 
is cool and soil conditions are good, such late-set 
plants generally prove satisfactory. If soil con¬ 
ditions are bad it is almost impossible to get a 
g-ood stand and growth. We know of several ex¬ 
periments by the U. S. Department of Agricul¬ 
ture and State workers where plants have been 
dug in March while they were still dormant 
and put in cold storage. They were held at 32 
ciegi ees F. and taken out at intervals for plant¬ 
ing. In every case such storage plants have 
proved better than freshly dug plants after 
April 15th and far better after May 1st. Where 
storage facilities are available we recommend 
this practice for those who cannot usually set 
plants by May 1st or earlier. 
Manure and Fertilizer 
Chemical fertilizers are not always needed, 
feoiis that are naturally fertile and have had 
frequent applications of stable manure may not 
need the addition of any chemical fertilizers. 
A rank healthy growth of plants with vigorous, 
dark green foliage is evidence that the fertilizer 
is not needed. Barnyard manure supplying 
humus, nitrogen and some mineral elements is 
the best fertilizer for strawberries. It should 
be applied broadcast and disced into the soil 
before plants are set. On very heavy soils it 
niay be best to plow it under. Equally satis¬ 
factory results are usually had if a heavy appli¬ 
cation has been made to the previous crop. 
grower and starter we use about 
700 lbs. per acre of a mixture composed of 1500 
lbs. dissolved (acidulated) bone and 500 lbs. 
Superphosphate. We have had very fine results 
from this mixture put in the drill and thoroughly 
mixed with the soil before plants were set. It 
can safely be applied broadcast but it is not as 
effective as putting it under the plants or using 
it as a side dressing soon after plants have 
started growth in the spring. Other organic 
forms of nitrogen like tankage or cottonseed 
meal, mixed with superphosphate, would be a 
satisfactory substitute for the dissolved bone and 
superphosphate. The formula should be fairly 
high in both nitrogen and phosphorus. Salts of 
nitrogen and potash should never be put on 
where they come in contact with the roots of 
strawberry plants. These materials in complete 
fertilizers have killed many plants in the past, 
the dying out occurring throughout the summer 
as tbe plants become gradually weakened. Wet 
weather and thorough mixing with the soil tend 
to lessen the chances of injury. 
Fertilizers for fruiting beds are most effective 
when applied in late summer or early fall. Dur¬ 
ing the last of August we use about 600 lbs. per 
acre of a mixture made up as follows: 200 lbs. 
nitrate of soda, 200 lbs. sulphate of ammonia, 
200 lbs. tankage, 200 lbs. fish, 1100 lbs. dissolved 
bone, 100 lbs. muriate of potash. It is most im¬ 
portant that foliage be thoroughly dry when 
applications are made and that any which lodges 
on the leaves be brushed off promptly. Appli¬ 
cations in late summer tend to aid in the de¬ 
velopment of fruit buds, strong crowns and 
large leaf area per plant. Spring applications 
are not recommended except where land is very 
poor or where the plant growth has been weak 
the preceding fall. Where spring applications 
are made they should be put on before growth 
has started. It is sometimes best to make spring 
applications on two year old beds where the 
ti'uit buds formed may be plentiful but vigor not 
up to standard. 
Any standard fertilizer mixture with 3 to 8% 
nitrogen, 5 to 10% of phosphorus and 1 to 3% 
of potash would be satisfactory for late summer 
early fall or early spring application to fruiting- 
beds. However, let us repeat that it must be put 
on when foliage is thoroughly dry and any loose 
material on the leaves brushed off at once by the 
most convenient method. 
Fertilizer elements. We believe that most 
soils have sufficient potash for strawberries nat¬ 
urally present in them or left over from fer¬ 
tilizers applied to other crops. It is contended 
in some places that good results have been ob¬ 
tained by its use. We have included 2% of 
potash in our summer application for insurance 
only. We have never seen any direct benefit 
from its use. A fairly high percentage of phos¬ 
phorus should be included in any fertilizer ap¬ 
plication for strawberries. Tests generally have 
shown a good response to its use. Nitrogen 
is the most important fertilizer element for 
strawberries. Contrary to popular opinion, the 
proper amount of nitrogen does not make berries 
softer except as it makes them larger. An 
excess of nitrogen will make berries softer and 
more subject to rot. The main reason for rec¬ 
ommending late summer applications to fruiting 
beds is that the nitrogen is used in stimulating 
fruit bud formation and strong crown develop¬ 
ment rather than a rank vegetative growth 
which is more likely from spring applications. 
For Everbearing strawberries, fertilizers 
should be similar to those for standard varieties 
except that three or four applications can be 
made during the summer and fall to help in¬ 
crease size and quantity of berries ripening dur¬ 
ing that period. 
Soil Acidity and Lime 
Strawberries grow best in a soil that is slightly 
acid. They grow satisfactorily in soils running 
from slightly sweet to moderately acid. They 
will hardly grow at all in soils that are mod¬ 
erately sweet or very acid. For those familiar 
with pH tests for soil acidity we can say that 
the optimum is from 5.7 to 6. The range of 
satisfactory growth is from 5 to 7 and they will 
survive within a range of 4 to 8. Experiments 
in Virginia and elsewhere demonstrate that 
strawberries will thrive under more acid condi¬ 
tions if there is a large content of organic mat¬ 
ter. Where strawberries have been planted on 
soils that are quite sweet Ammonium Sulphate 
should be substituted for Nitrate of Soda in fer¬ 
tilizer applications. If lime is to be used to 
correct a very acid condition we would prefer 
to have it applied to the previous crop or at 
least during the fall preceding spring setting. 
Even though strawberries are known as an 
acid soil crop, yet some soils are so acid that an 
application of lime will be of great help. On the 
other hand, unless excessive amounts of lime 
have been added, very few soils need be avoided 
on account of their lime content. 
Cultivation 
Uncover the Buds Th ®. p^nts should be 
cultivated and hoed 
soon after they have started growth after being- 
set out. It is very important at the first hoeing- 
to uncover the buds of any plants which may 
have been planted too deep or have become cov¬ 
ered after planting. If this is not done very early 
many of these plants will die. Most of them will 
not recover in time to amount to anything even 
though they might live all summer. On heavy 
soils this is even more important and in some 
cases is the biggest single factor in failing to 
get a good stand of vigorous growing plants. 
Cultivate often enough to keep the surface of 
the ground from becoming crusted and to keep 
down the grass and weeds. It is not necessary 
to practice deep cultivation. A depth of one to 
one and one-half inches is deep enough for the 
hoe, or perhaps slightly deeper with the horse 
cultivator. Frequent cultivation should be given 
even though weed and grass growth is not a 
serious problem. It is important to remember 
also that two cultivations made in time are much 
more helpful and much less work than one made 
after grass and weeds get bad. 
Frequent hoeing ant! cultivation make larger, 
stronger fruiting beds and a better crop of 
berries. We have found this to be especially 
true in getting a good bed of Chesapeake and 
other varieties which normally do not make 
many plants. 
Cutting the Blossoms 
Blossoms should be removed from newly set 
plants as soon as they appear. To allow them 
to set berries and mature them involves a drain 
on the vitality of the plants. Removal of blos¬ 
soms aids the plants in overcoming unfavorable 
conditions and in starting growth and runner 
production quicker. This has much added im- 
26 
