This variety, Peggy Ann Hoover, might be of more value as an attraction 
than any on the list, something different, here it is. 
eluded. Except when 
regularly heated green¬ 
houses are used, any 
shading material used 
should be left in place 
to be unrolled as a pos¬ 
sible protection against 
frost or rain. More 
time is required in 
shading pompons be¬ 
cause of some lateral 
bud setting that must 
take place before shad¬ 
ing stops: in fact we 
continue the shade until 
first or terminal buds 
show color. Shading 
should be continued on 
the large flowering kind 
until the most forward 
buds are around V 2 inch 
in diameter. Intensive 
breeding for size is perhaps responsible 
for the fact that, generally speaking the 
larger flowers are, the softer they become. 
In Mums we know that exhibition kinds 
like the Turners would be useless to flower 
in September because they lack enuf hard¬ 
ness to prevent rotting thru the heat and 
wet spells of that month. In even the 
moderate size varieties some are too soft 
for September, others characteristically 
hard. The small pompons are the hardest 
of any and can be exposed to dampness 
without harm. We had a cloth house plant¬ 
ing this fall in full flower when the tem¬ 
perature went down to 22°. Under the 
shading cloth pulled over them it got down 
to 32° and, as it usually does, this happened 
during a few days of rainy weather. But 
when flowered in the open we find them 
around 10 days later in flowering than 
when planted in an ordinarily heated 
greenhouse with the same shading treat¬ 
ment. Because of the greatly reduced 
overhead or investment we find this out¬ 
door planting worth while. Next season 
we will locate this planting so a few 1 in. 
steam pipes can be run into it. This, 
with the shading material in place will 
enable us to plant it around the 20th of 
April and assure us greater fall protec¬ 
tion. Early planting assures longer stems 
and a first class bunch of pompons must 
be on at least 3-4 foot stems and if you cut 
them down too low into the hardwood they 
wilt. 
VARIETIES 
As far as growth and bud setting is con¬ 
cerned, all varieties react alike to shading. 
But due to the temperature of September 
being higher than that of their normal 
flowering season, some varieties change 
color considerably. The October flowering 
rose pink kind, when flowered during warm 
September weather, fade considerably. Oc¬ 
tober Rose is the generally preferred one. 
Major Edward Bowes is the deepest col¬ 
ored October variety but rather short 
stemmed or of compact habit. The bronze 
November 1 variety Apricot Queen is an¬ 
other example of how some colors change 
under shade. When this is shaded into 
flower in the warmth of late September, 
it is an attractive deep or dark yellow, a 
flne market color. While colors or shades 
of shaded stock depends on temperatures 
in which they are flowered, practically all 
the clear yellows and whites come true 
when flowered early. Even such a deep 
yellow as Friendly Rival loses little of 
its flne color when flowered early. An¬ 
other important point, as already men¬ 
tioned is durability or hardness of flower. 
In offering the following list of October 
varieties for early or September flowering, 
this point is considered. This list is as fol¬ 
lows and includes only the most popular 
kind: Good News, Blazing Gold, Mrs. H. 
E. Kidder. In yellows we find Citronella, 
inclined to come weak in growth, especi¬ 
ally in ground beds. In white Silver Sheen, 
Albatross, and Snow White are largely 
used tho the last named is not as hard as 
the other two. The popular Betsy Ross we 
have dropped for we find it weaker and 
clearly more susceptible to disease and 
red spider than the others grown along 
side them. Detroit News stands quite 
alone among bronze colors tho Hilda Ber¬ 
gen is sometimes used. Popular late va¬ 
rieties for shading are Marketeer, Chas. 
W. Johnson, Glitters, Apricot Queen, 
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