28 
QUALITY CHRYSANTHEMUM PLANTS 
On Sept. 5th complete final pinching of broadest one-third or basal division, on Sept. 
10th the midsectional one-third and on Sept. 15th the final one-third. 
Gradually lower main leader so that it will be in a horizontal position about Sept. 
15th. V\ hen buds begin to form, with surface of plant facing south, start gradual down¬ 
ward bending of main leader and its support. When buds show color place on solid 
base at required height and bend to final vertical position. 
General Cultural Suggestions 
Following are a few vital facts pertinent to the subject of successful chrysanthemum 
culture: 
SOIL CONDITIONING—The chrysanthemum is a gross feeder. It is, therefore, neces¬ 
sary that the soil in which it is to be planted contains a sufficient amount of plant food 
to supply, without the aid of too frequent applications of liquid or commercial fertilizer, 
ihe demands of a long growing season. If in doubt as to the fertility of your land, we 
suggest that you work in with it a thoroughly rotted manure, well in advance of planting 
date and in quantities commensurate with the strength of the material used and the texture 
of the soil in question. Loose, sandy soil, particularly when of a nature unquestionably 
deficient in organic matter, should receive a heavier application per unit of space than 
lhat required by the same unit of space in a heavier and more productive soil. 
The nature and amount of plant food to be used during the growing season can 
best be judged by the character of your soil and the variety and condition of the plants 
to be treated. Avoid the hazards of over-fertilization. Discontinue feeding when buds 
begin to show color. 
PLANTING—Early planting is an important factor in the timely formation of a robust 
root system, a prerequisite to the growth of strong, sturdy plants and quality flowers. 
When seasonal blooms are desired at an advanced date it is doubly important that 
planting be done early in order that plants may attain sufficient height to permit the 
taking of crown buds. (SEE BUD SELECTION.) 
WATERING—Variation in the composition of soils and variation in climatic conditions, 
due to geographical differences, render the matter of watering a problem for local study 
and solution. However, here are a few salient points ever to be kept in mind if you are 
to avoid the consequences of a careless, haphazard plan of Irrigation. 
We cannot emphasize too strongly the necessity of keeping the roots of your plants 
moist at all times. To subject them to a drought, however slight, will cause a sudden 
check in growth, a setback that may later be responsible for a host of trouble—the 
appearance of rust, mildew, blighted or blackened foliage and the premature hardening 
of wood, premature setting of buds with a sequence of partially developed and mis¬ 
shapen flowers. 
Avoid overwatering as it is apt to lead to equally disastrous results. Confine your 
irrigation activities to a time of day sufficiently early to allow superficial dryina of foliaqe 
before nightfall. 
STOPPING When the young plant has become firmly established—normally within 
a period of two weeks from planting date—pinch out the top. This simple operation is 
known as stopping and will bring about the formation of three or more new shoots, the 
subsequent handling of which must be governed by whatever plan you may have for 
their future disposition. In order to dwarf your plants, make them bush out, and to increase 
their yield of blooms it may be necessary to ''stop'' them a number of times, the proper 
number to be determined by the particular variety of plant in need of such attention and 
the specific result desired. 
