it when ground is wet, and watering enough to prevent 
burning. Keep it away from the stems. 
Watering during dry summers, and just before blooming 
is beneficial. Give a thorough soaking with two gallons 
or more of water once every week or ten days, not oftener. 
Daily watering or sprinkling is injurious. After October 
1st, cut off all foliage close to the ground, and burn at once. 
This is the best preventive measure against blight, and 
usually the only one necessary. Should blight appear in 
spring, before blooming, pinch out and burn all diseased 
tissue at once, and spray with weak Bordeaux, in propor¬ 
tions of one pound of bluestone and one half pound of 
hydrated lime to 50 gallons of water. To obtain large 
blooms, remove all side buds when they are the size of small 
hazelnuts. To obtain a fine cluster, pinch out the large 
center bud. Blooms cut before half open and brought in¬ 
doors will show finer color and last longer than blooms left 
on the plant or cut when fully open. When cutting blooms, 
let two or three leaves remain on every stub of the stalks. 
Do not cut more than half or two-thirds of the blooms. A 
late freeze in spring sometimes causes buds to blast. 
Ants do no damage except to carry blight (if present) or 
if very numerous. Find their nests and poison or scald 
them out. 
A ten foot length of two inch diamond mesh chicken wire, 
two feet high, looped loosely about the plant just before 
blooming, makes an unequalled support, and is inexpensive. 
It can be removed immediately the bloom is done. Most 
Peony supports are too small, squeeze the foliage too close, 
and invite blight. 
Plant the healthy, fresh dug Auten roots, follow above 
directions carefully, and you should have many years of 
pleasure from your Peonies. 
EDWARD AUTEN, JR. 
Princeville, Illinois 
