the hot weather and this one bloom is not always up 
to expectation. Again, the right half shows normal 
branch and bud development when not disbudded, 
with most of the growth in the top of the plant. 
There are, however, a few varieties that need the 
mature foliage on the main stalk to keep the roots 
functioning properly, so when removing this crown 
. bloom leave the central stalk and leaves on the plant 
but disbud the entire stalk, as shown on the left 
half of drawing. 
Key Letters Used in Index 
The key letter ahead of the price is our recom: 
mendation of the system to use in topping and dis- 
budding for each variety listed. 
V_ Do not disbud. For early blooms pinch out once 
or twice as indicated on right side of Drawings 
X and Y. For later blooms, cut back to about 
6 inches above ground 6 weeks before you want 
blooms when growing in light soils; in heavy 
soil allow 7 to 8 weeks. Always leave the side 
shoots or branches to come into bloom. This 
system works very well for the smaller type dah- 
lias; such as miniature, pompon, single, orchid 
flowering, anemone, and collarette; also for the 
larger dahlias when grown for mass color and 
landscape effects. 
Cut back six weeks before you want bloom leav- 
ing about six small branches for your first six 
blooms and disbud as soon as laterals are large 
enough by following Drawing X, if stems are 
naturally long, and Y when stems are short. 
X, Y, Z See Drawings. 
IRRIGATION 
When your dahlias need water, wet the ground 
so it will penetrate about a foot deep when growing 
in light soil. In heavy soil, watering need not be as 
heavy, as it may be followed by rain and over- 
watering may result. Cultivate as soon as sufficient 
drainage has taken place, and do not water again 
a necessary; a good watering should last about a 
week, 
Except as recommended below for insect control, 
do not spray your dahlia bushes, or sprinkle the 
surface of the ground every night or so, for this will 
only pack the surface, preventing air circulation and 
causing the soil to crust and dry rapidly in the sun- 
shine. This also draws the feed roots to the surface, 
to be sickened by the heat of the sun’s rays. The 
flowers produced are soft and the root development 
very poor, low in vitality and hard to winter. 
Automatic overhead irrigation is the most satisfac- 
tory all-around system for light soils. It is ideal for 
the early growing season and we recommend its use 
in the middle of the day in bright sunshine during 
this period, as it will discourage thrips and leaf-hop- 
pers and control red spider. If insects are bad we 
recommend sprinkling every two or three days from 
1 tol% hours each time until insects are under con- 
trol, then harden the plants off with less water and 
more cultivation. This will not only discourage in- 
24 
DAHLIADEL NURSERIES = <¢72 
arity 
sects but help the plants out-grow the insect injury. 
When bushes are well developed and buds breaking 
it is best to water after nightfall, less often and more 
thoroughly. Once a week should be sufficient in 
real dry weather. 
TILE DRAINAGE can be easily and inexpensive- 
ly installed in heavy soil for irrigating in dry weath- 
er and afford drainage in wet weather. Arrange 
your rows of dahlias with natural slope and where 
each row of dahlias is to be planted, dig a trench 
about 15 inches deep and place in it a row of porous 
drainage tile with a uniform fall toward the low end. 
Connect the rows of tile across at top and bottom 
(glazed sewer tile tees suggested), install a gate 
valve at the low corner, and pipe off so that the wa- 
ter will readily drain away. On the high corner of 
your garden, install a vertical tile stand pipe in 
which a float valve or hose can be used for filling. 
In wet weather, leave the gate valve open to drain. 
In dry weather, close the gate and run water in 
stand pipe until you have given your dahlias a good 
drink by sub-irrigation. This system can be made 
still more efficient by filling in around the drainage 
tile with a coarse porous material, such as coarse 
ashes, or coarse sand, before filling level with regular 
garden soil. This installation will not be unsightly 
and last indefinitely. 
CULTIVATION 
By cultivating at least once a week, twice prefer- 
ably in the early season, and as soon after-rain or 
irrigating as the ground can be worked, the weeds 
will be held in check and a soil mulch formed which 
will conserve the moisture and lessen the need of 
irrigation. 
As the plant develops and the feed roots come 
toward the surface, the ground should be worked 
rather shallow around the hill for the radius of at 
least a foot. Still work the balance of the ground 
rather deep and bring some fresh soil to the plant 
each cultivation, giving the plant a new supply of 
food and protecting the surface roots from the heat 
of the sun. Have the hills mounded 3 to 5 inches 
by middle of September. This will help support 
the stalks and protect the roots from freezing should 
an unexpected cold spell catch you before digging. 
PESTS 
THRIPS are tiny insects which in the nymph 
stage are less than % of an inch long and a greenish 
gray color. They enter the growing leaf bud and 
chafe the newly formed leaves, injuring them so that 
they develop malformed and curled, also injuring the 
small flower bud and stem. These insects seem to 
enjoy the life blood of certain varieties on account 
of its flavor and do not molest the adjacent bush. 
If the attack is not checked the leaves will be 
gnarled and twisted, the buds one-sided or so in- 
jured that they dry up and fall off. This usually 
results in a stunted bush, which in reality is only 
debilitated by insect ravages. 
LEAF-HOPPERS are larger than thrips and of 
a pale yellowish green color, a little over % of an 
inch in length. They fly when the bush is touched 
