NE WrEED FORD, &McA SS. 3 

Glads love the sun so SELECT A SUNNY LOCATION away from trees or shrubs where 
roots might take up the food and moisture you intend the glads to get and also away from the 
sides of houses, walls or fences that might shade them even if only for part of each day. 
The soil will have considerable bearing on your culture. If a heavy clay soil, you will not 
need to plant more than two thirds as deep as in a light sandy soil. Plant large bulbs about six 
inches deep in light sandy soil; medium bulbs four inches and small bulbs three inches. If you 
are mainly interested in bulblet increase, plant as close to the surface as possible but if blooming 
size bulbs you will probably have to stake them. Light soils will usually give more bulblets 
than heavy soils. 
Either spade or plough (depending on the size of the garden) the soil deeply, preferably 
in the fall, leaving it rough during the winter. If stable manure is available put it on before 
spading and it will be well rotted by spring. 
If the glads are grown for landscape effect they should be in beds about six to ten 
inches apart depending upon the variety. If grown for the blooms, as more often is the case, 
they should be in rows and the bulbs can be placed either in single or double rows. We pre- 
fer double rows in the trench as then they tend to hold each other up on windy days. The 
rows should be from eighteen inches apart to thirty-six inches depending on whether you 
intend to cultivate by hand or machine. The wider rows are much easier to handle if culti- 
vating machinery is used. Allow about five inches between large bulbs and less as the size 
of the bulbs planted decreases. 
FERTILIZER: This item plays a very important part in successful growing, yet the cost 
in relation to the whole is not a large factor. Therefore it pays to use a plant food that sup- 
plies not only the so-called major elements, but the just-as-important minor elements as well. 
Research has shown that deficiencies in minor elements will cause a very definite retardation 
if not a complete failure of a crop. 
Here at Flying Cloud, we have found that Vigoro supplies the needed elements and has 
given us excellent satisfaction. A check on bulb growth has revealed superior development 
to former years, and color has been outstanding. ~ 
General recommendations for the use of Vigoro are as follows: After the soil is put in 
good tillable condition, the planting rows should be made an inch or so deeper than you want 
to plant. Vigoro should then be put in the bottom of the row at the rate of about four 
pounds per 100 feet of row. Cover the plant food with one to one-and-one-half inches off 
soil, and then plant the corms. Or, if preferred, Vigoro may be worked thoroughly into the 
soil in the bottom of the row instead of just being covered with soil. Wait one or two days 
before planting. After the glads are eight to ten inches high, a surface feeding should be 
made at the rate of four pounds to 100 feet of row. The Vigoro should be spread on both 
sides of the row and worked lightly into the soil. Another similar feeding should be made just 
as the buds appear. Now, be sure the soil is well loosened and the fertilizer is well mixed in 
the bottom of the trench before setting the bulbs. After the bulbs are set, cover in the trench 
and hill it up a bit. When the first weeds appear, rake it down level again and that first 
crop of weeds is easily killed. Many years ago, a very successful farmer said, ‘“‘Remember, a 
crop well planted is a crop half grown,’’ and we believe he was 100 percent right. 
Watering will depend entirely upon the rainfall, heat, and type of soil you are using but 
when you do water, use enough to do a good job. Three quarters of an inch of water at least 
for big bulbs (just set a low straight sided tin can among them before you start watering and 
then you can tell how much you are getting on.) Three quarters of an inch you will find is 
a lot but it pays, especially from just as the spikes come out of the sheath until they bloom. 
Stirring of the soil is a great factor. Hoeing, scratching, cultivating, brooming, or what- 
ever you want to call it, should be done often. We use lawn brooms in the planted rows on our 
light soil and cultivators in the rows. We plan to get over the piece every fourth or fifth day 
but if it has been very dry, once a week is enough. If it rains, or we irrigate, we try to culti- 
vate the following day as soon as it dries out. 
