This Spring in your vegetable 
garden, DON’T FORGET: 
THE GENERAL PLAN. In planning the garden, perennials 
such as asparagus and rhubarb should be planted at one side 
where they can remain undisturbed for years. Short-season 
early vegetables such as radishes, peas and lettuce should be 
together so that the space can be used later for another crop. 
Crops which last through the season should, likewise, be 
grouped together. 
SOIL PREPARATION. Most vegetables like good drainage, 
careful preparation of soil as deeply as possible, plenty of 
humus and plant food, cultivation and freedom from weeds. 
For humus, use well rotted manure or peat moss. 
For fast growing of crisp crops such as spinach, celery and 
lettuce, apply nitrate of soda as a side dressing. Potatoes need 
a fertilizer high in phosphorus and potash. 
SUCCESSIVE PLANTINGS. Make successive plantings about 
every two weeks, of beans, peas, radishes, beets, carrots, lettuce, 
spinach and sweet corn, until you have several crops coming on. 
Late plantings can be made in early fall. Make two plantings 
of tomatoes and cabbage, one of egg plants, peppers, cucumbers 
and chard. 
WEEDING NOTE. Cabbage, tomatoes and sweet corn should 
not be cultivated much after the plants have begun to grow 
well, except for mere scraping of ground with a garden scuffle 
hoe to kill weeds, so that roots close to the surface will not be 
injured. 
“Sellars for Pennies” 
When you grow your own table vegetables you 

get dollars for pennies—with a lot of healthy 
fun thrown in free. Here is the world’s greatest 
bargain in food—in tastiness—in health, plus 
all the fun of gardening. 

GROWING ASPARAGUS. Any home garden, except the very 
smallest, should have a few rows of asparagus. Once established, 
an asparagus bed requires a minimum of attention and pro- 
duces year after year a bounteous supply of delicious food. If 
properly cared for, a bed will last 15 to 20 years. 
Plant asparagus in a section where it will not be in the way 
of plowing or other crops and where, if possible, it will fit into 
the rest of the garden as a decorative feature. 
GROWING RHUBARB. Rhubarb is another hardy perennial 
vegetable that the smallest garden cannot afford to be without. 
It is very easy to grow and, once established, requires very 
little attention. A few clumps growing in a corner are sufficient 
for the average family. 
Rhubarb can be forced, in winter, to provide tender shoots 
out of season. After the early winter freezes have made the 
roots dormant, dig the crown and fleshy roots; keep close to- 
gether on the floor or in a box or keg in a darkened room. Put a 
layer of sand, ashes or garden soil over them and remove to a 
warm basement. Place and water well. After about 3 weeks 
there will be shoots ready to use. Roots used in this way are 
usually worthless for planting again. If roots are dug and taken 
in before frozen, no shoots will appear in the basement. Wait 
for freezes before digging. 
—about RADISHES. The secret of getting crisp, delicious 
radishes is quick growth. So use plenty of plant food in the soil 
where they are planted. This is undoubtedly the easiest of all 
vegetables to grow; the seeds germinate in a few days, and are 
ready for eating in 3 to 5 weeks. 
All through the planting season, a succession should be sown 
every 10 days, so that you may have plenty of mild, tender 
radishes for relish and salads all through the season. 

A vegetable garden only 30 x 50 ft. will keep a 
family of 5 in fresh vegetables all through the 
season—with plenty left over for canning. 

—about CUCUMBERS. For small pickles, (gherkins) cucum- 
bers should be gathered when only 2 or 3 inches long—about 
six weeks after sowing. 
For ‘‘dill” size pickles, they should be 4 to 6 inches long. 
FOR SLICING—they are best when plump and cylindrical— 
but before they bulge in the middle or develop a yellow tinge 
at the blossom end. 
—about CABBAGE. Few crops pay back the cost of fertilizing 
as well as cabbage. Use a good commercial fertilizer that can 
be applied before planting—and your crop will richly repay 
your efforts and expenditure. 
—about PEAS. The first spring activity in the vegetable garden 
should be the sowing of peas. The low varieties can be planted 
as soon as the ground can be worked. Taller kinds about 10 or 
15 days later. 
The garden pea is rich in nutritious values, containing vitamins 
weenie 
—about LETTUCE. This tender, crisp, salad plant must be 
grown rapidly in what is known as ‘“‘quick soil.’’ This means 
friable ground, well drained, in which there is constant moisture 
and an abundance of plant food. 
—about PEPPERS. Always, when gathering peppers, cut 
them with a knife, leaving only a short piece of stem, rather 
than run the risk of injuring the plant by pulling them off. 
—about TOMATOES. Many home gardeners prune their 
vines by cutting out the shoots from the leaf axils, thinking 
this will give them better and more abundant fruit. It has, 
however, been repeatedly proven that such pruning is a waste 
of time, because it doesn’t accomplish these aims. 
For excellence of flavor you want young, tender carrots, radishes 
and beets—and to get them you must have rich soil that will 
develop the roots fast. Slow growing, old carrots are only fit 
for stock feed. 
Corn is much better for table use if it is gathered while very 
young. With a little practice, the proper stage for harvesting 
can be determined. This is shortly after the ‘‘milk stage,’’ when 
the silks are dry and black, and the husk leaves have an ap- 
pearance of maturity. If the ear feels plump and firm when 
grasped, it is generally ready. 
Exercise the greatest caution about cultivating or picking beans 
when the plants are wet with dew or rain. It is extremely pos- 
sible to spread disease from plant to plant (if they are wet) 
with implements, or even clothing brushing past. 
